BuzzLand

BuzzLand

Active Member
Going to be doing a change of fuel filter later.

1. Haynes manual states the sediment filter ought to be checked first, but is unclear on its location. It says it should be near the fuel tank but at first glance I've not seen it. Any got pics?

2. My main query though is if its necessary to bleed the air out of the fuel system if I change the fuel filter itself?
If so where is the pump handle. I've not found one yet in the engine bay, unless it's tucked out of view?

Cheers.
 
The sedimenter is located under the drivers side rear arch on the side of the chassis next to the shock absorber mount as far as I know, but it might be the case that you don't have one fitted, because not all Land Rovers do (I dunno which ones!). As for bleeding it, there's nothing to it, it supposedly self bleeds! Just keep on turning it over, once the air is out of the system it'll fire up. If that doesn't work, slightly loosen the smaller bolt that goes into the top of your fuel filter housing and then manually pump fuel through with the lever on the lift pump. That's located on the sticky-outy bit (the lift pump!) on the drivers side of the engine block next to your oil filter

-pos
 
I'm going to have a go at doing mine tomorrow, so I'll let you know how I get on.

I'm doing the big easy to reach one first. Will look for the one hidden underneath next ;)


400 mile of bio diesel and I think I can feel the power dropping - though it may be my imagination. THe change will find out which.
 
BuzzLand said:
Going to be doing a change of fuel filter later.

1. Haynes manual states the sediment filter ought to be checked first, but is unclear on its location. It says it should be near the fuel tank but at first glance I've not seen it. Any got pics?

2. My main query though is if its necessary to bleed the air out of the fuel system if I change the fuel filter itself?
If so where is the pump handle. I've not found one yet in the engine bay, unless it's tucked out of view?

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Haynes manuel does say its opional fitment so you might not have one.

As for the for the bleeding when i changed my dads 300 disco filter i just unscrewd the old one filled the new one with clean fuel then let the engine tick over for a few minuites. done the same on my p38 when i had it. there is a pump handle think its a black button on the filter or the pump at the bottom of the engine cant remember never used it
 
Unscrew old filter

Fill new filter with some diesel if you have some about, if not just screw on the new one putting a little diesel/oil etc on the o-ring.

Screw on the new one

Start engine, it will fire instantly, DO NOT touch the accelerator as this will draw too much fuel and the engine will die before it fills the new filter and bleeds it. It will sound a little rough after a few seconds as it starts to get starved of fuel a bit, then it will idle normally.

Job done
 
discomania said:
Unscrew old filter

Fill new filter with some diesel if you have some about, if not just screw on the new one putting a little diesel/oil etc on the o-ring.
Click to expand...

Don't you have to drain the old filter when you take it off? Wouldn't that give you just enough to fill the new filter? or would that be a bad idea (can't see why)

When do you tighten the bleed screw back up? before or after you run the engine?
It makes sense to have it open when you bleed it, but I don't like the sound of having it open when the engine is running (to bleed it!).
Or as you haven't mentioned it, do you just ignore the bleed and drain bits and literally just unscrew old, fit new.
 
That would be a bad idea as the unfiltered side would pour out and you would just fill your new filter with dirt - back to square one.

There is no point in wasting time draining it, uncscrew it and throw it in the fire, bin whatever.

Don't undo the bleed screw, the bosch pump bleeds itself, there is NO WAY for the bosch fuel filter head to bleed air in operation, if air comes in it goes out the pump deals with it all, very clever, unlike the CAV which needed an air free fuel feed, hence why you should not use the later bosch filter head with a lucas pump because unless it is modifed it will not rid the flow of fuel of air.
 
Hi...I unscrew the old fuel filter , tip out the old diesel ( usually into same disposal container as the old engine oil) then I fill the new filter with diesel injector cleaner........and fit as usual.
Never had to bother with bleeding.
 
Hello,

I have 1995 TDI auto Disco. There is some sort of filter canister under the rear arch near the fuel tank and a filter canister under the bonnet.
The one under the bonnet has a hand screw under it to flush out water etc. I opened this into a slean jar but only clean fuel came out. Seems too good to be true at 273,000km? but it must be be.

Does anyone know if the similar sized canister at the fuel tank needs to be replaced or if the smaller plastic hand screw under it just needs to be opened to flush out any gunk instead?
Jason
 
Do not undo the tap as 85% of the time it WILL snap, there is an 11 mm bolt on top new seals clean it out= job done

you will want sedimenter seals
 
NERO3 said:
Hi...I unscrew the old fuel filter , tip out the old diesel ( usually into same disposal container as the old engine oil) then I fill the new filter with diesel injector cleaner........and fit as usual.
Never had to bother with bleeding.
Click to expand...

Just diesel injector cleaner, no diesel.?!
 
hahahaha it's amazing that a simple job like changing a fuel filter gets so many weird rituals and variations attached to it :eek:

take the old one off, put the new one on and start the engine. simples :D
 
AFAIK the sediment filter is only on the disco.

Fuel filter, take old off, new one on, start engine, as it coughs, floor it.
Cue landy shuddering and spluttering as it bleeds (usually accompanied by smoke in my case) it usually picks up, occasionally it will stall out, couple of cranks and it'll fire back up again, never even needed to use the prime on my lift pump.
It even self bled when me lift pump was U/S
 
All I do is fill the fuel filter with diesel before putting it on and its been perfectly fine. It's a simple job.

Didn't 110s have sedimenters as well? I know 90s certainly didn't but think the 110s and possibly 130s did due to the further the distance the fuel had to travel or some **** like that
 
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