As Wammers has already suggested the 'Bible' has most of the answers but - I have just 'serviced' my passenger locks this morning, (now having a break whilst my fuse box casing dries)!
Before you start just bear in mind that you do not want to short any of the electrical connections, (once you disconnect them), although this is very unlikely as they are well protected within their receptive plugs and sockets but do remember that some will be live even when the ignition is switched off, (central locking, etc).
Also bear in mind that you will be causing the central locking to cycle, (every time you move the locking lever to and fro), I didn't have this issue as I have my battery disconnected, (and the fuse box is currently in a number of pieces currently)!
1/. I removed the three lock mounting screws, (Torx), on the outside of the door - this allows you to 'manipulate' the lock assembly into suitable positions to undo the inner door release catch cable and the outer door handle push rod, (the inner door lock button can be left alone at this time).
2/ Manipulate the lock mechanism in order to remove the inner door release catch cable, (it is just like a bicycle brake cable where the outer sheath is a 'press fit' into its holding bracket), and you then twist the inner cable end, (which is angled to locate into the hole in the actuating arm), until free.
3/. Next remove the outer door handle push rod - this is a pretty standard design where a red plastic 'grip' is used to hold the end of the rod, (which is angled), securely - if you look at it you will see that it just clips around the rod and it will 'twist off', (in one direction only - you will see once you look at it), thus allowing you to remove the rod - a very simple but effective design!
4/. Untwist the inner door lock button, (which will have been 'bobbing up and down' at the top of the door frame whilst you removed the other two connections), as it is simply screwed onto the threaded actuating rod - you cant remove the other end as it is the rod loops back on itself and you would have to really twist the lock mechanism to get sufficient clearance - I just left it until now!
5/. Undo the two electrical connectors - you may have to remove them from the door skin, (they are held by plastic spigots that just clip into their respective holes), it is well worth checking the contacts of the two connectors - just in case they have suffered water ingress, (causing all sorts of potential issues), and a touch of WD40 wont go amiss either way, (they are good quality water proof connectors so the connectors should look as good as new)!.
6/. The hardest part is getting the lock mechanism out of the door carcass - I spent an hour, (last night in the dark), with no success, (the assembly is not flat - it has the motor body and one of the actuating arms both sticking out), thus not allowing the assembly to be removed, easily, via the small gap between the inner door skin and the window runners!!!!
7/. Once I learned the trick it now it only takes 10 seconds to get in and out!!!
8/. The secret is to angle it so that the motor body and the pertruding lever are pulled through the gap first and, as it clears, you then rotate the rest of the assembly and it comes straight out, (very difficult to explain but once done you won't forget)!
9/. You can now remove the inner door lock rod - should you so wish!
10/. I then gave mine a good clean, some greasing and then sprayed WD40 into the innards, (where the switches are), as a final touch.
11/. I also removed my door handles as the front handles are now very 'tired' and they do not return 'flush' with the trim, (purely cosmetic as they work fine but just look bad), and dis a touch of filing and then re-greased and they now look good and the locking action is much sweeter!
Apologies if my procedure is contrary to the Rave instructions however!
Right back to the fuse box!!!
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