D

disco 1 harrogate

Member
Gentlemen& ladies,
Having a few problems with my T reg disco 1 300 tdi. After doing a little research on the "tinternet" I think I may need to change my cylinder head gasket. As this is my only car I need to get it right first time . I have a good array of tools and I am not afraid of getting my hands dirty , however , I have a couple of questions .
1. Is it a job I can attempt myself .
2. How long should it take .
3. ( the important one ) there seems to be a couple of thicknesses/types of gasket . How do I know which one to order before I start ? As I mentioned this is my only car and want it to be off the road for the shortest time possible . I want to order gasket before I start , not split the engine then have to order part if at all possible .
The car still runs ok apart from the " standard" smoke and having to fill coolent up every couple of days( about 2/3 pints each time ) .
Any advice or tips would be VERY welcome

Thank-you in advance
 
1. How competent are you are doing something like this and does your array of tools cover what you will need?
2. Easily done in a couple of hours if you are confident.
3. The current gasket has a tab that sticks out the side with holes in it and that shows the thickness, can't remember which side it sticks out on though.

There is a few other things to check if you have a head gasket problem. Like water pump, P gasket, thermostate.

Plenty of how too's done already.
 
Only thing I need to buy is a torque wrench .
New water pump 6 months ago .
P gasket (?)
Thermostate changed 6 months ago ( going to change again just to make sure before I start as there only a couple of squid )
Thanks for the tip about gasket , and where to look ( VERY USEFUL TIP)
 
P gasket.... Might be my problem ....had a bit of a leak from that area a few months back ...dismantled engine and resealed with gasket sealant ( blue ) however I think that May of not worked after just having a quick look . Will have another go at that before looking at head gasket .
 
Just ordered new p gasket .... £1.69 !....last of the big spenders .....see how it goes after fitting that . Got next week off work so no major rush if that doesn't solve the problem . Done this job before took about 2 hours ( with tea breaks ) .
 
Symptoms :
Having to fill coolent up by 2/3pints twice a week .
Vibration when engine starts to strain eg: going up a hill in a gear that should cope with hill
Oil down side of engine block . ( both sides )
Smokes when engine has to work eg: pulling away from lights , however clears when up to speed .
Heater works when coolent topped up , goes cold after a few days ( that's when you know you need to top up coolent )
No water in oil ( as far as I can tell ) .
Oil ok , haven't needed to top up quite a while ( 6 months+)
Mileage 120k
 
Go to a garage and get the coolant sniff tested, and the coolaing system pressure tested.

This will tell you if you have a Head Gasket problem. If the Head Gasket has gone you should also send the Head away to be skimmed and pressure tested as well just to make sure it has not warped.

Previous advice about quality/Genuine gaskets is correct.

If the Head is skimmed you need a thicker gasket than you have fitted at present.

The thickness is measured by the number of holes in the tab that sticks out.

one hole the thinnest up to three, with no holes being the thickest.

Regards

Jonathan
 
BIG THANK YOU for all the info , had a real close look this morning and it looks as if it's just the p gasket area ( waters leaking / dripping from that area ) got a new one through post this morning so will fit that and see where we go from there .
 
Richard Martin said:
Did you miss ?
Click to expand...

Didnt miss anything, however 'standard smoke' didn't mean much to me as please do tell me what colour or smell standard smoke is.... Just trying to find out a bit more and help the op find out what's wrong before he goes wild replacing the HG.
 
disco 1 harrogate said:
Symptoms :
Having to fill coolent up by 2/3pints twice a week .
Vibration when engine starts to strain eg: going up a hill in a gear that should cope with hill
Oil down side of engine block . ( both sides )
Smokes when engine has to work eg: pulling away from lights , however clears when up to speed .
Heater works when coolent topped up , goes cold after a few days ( that's when you know you need to top up coolent )
No water in oil ( as far as I can tell ) .
Oil ok , haven't needed to top up quite a while ( 6 months+)
Mileage 120k
Click to expand...

The vibration under load can be a few things UJ's or even the flange worn between rear prop and diff plenty into on the forum on how to check and replace these if they are causing a problem

The oil down the engine block can you tell where it's coming from rocker covers tend to leak very easy but you should be able to tell where it starts.

When my head went I didn't have any oil in the water so not always a way to tell.
 
And it goes on !!!!.....got new p gasket and fitted it ( 2.5 hours) , however , whilst doing that ,a bit of coolent went over alternator as I took one of the coolent hoses off. Not a problem I thought ! Upon starting car the battery light stays on (?) Taken alternator off and checked its dry . It's brand new only 6 weeks old . ANY IDEAS???? Belts new as well so isn't worn and at right tention . Also just to add , whilst filling up with coolent , I decided to fill through the thermostat housing plug plug not the radiator , which "DEEP JOY" decided to snap in half as I took it out ( new thermostat housing arriving and been fitted today!!) not that I can see that would cause the battery light to stay on .
Thanks again in advance .
 
Think I've work out why light stays on .....I put sealant on the p gasket when fitting ....wasn't till later I thought " it's metal for a reason " ......going to take gasket out again and remove sealant . * huff* there goes my morning ....
 
whats wrong with putting sealant opn p gasket ? they are now made of metal to make them last longer than the originals
 
Nooooooo.....just spent afternoon taking p gasket out and cleaning all the sealant off and replacing it......hasn't cured the battery light issue though * damm*
 
Unlikely to be anything with the gasket, backtrack your steps is belt on correctly at full tension etc. Never dealt with the wiring on the discovery alternator, but as James says check for a positive feed when running and that it's not just a wire out of place/full of crap when you have been removing things.
 
Will try that ..... * the sky's leaking at the moment* ......used multi meter on it yesterday . Battery started at 12.? Turned on engine went up to 14.? ( can't remember exact point whatever) turned everything on , dipped a little , then went back up to 14.? . Which I assume means alternators giving juice . Then black lead into neg point on battery ( got daughter to rev to 1500rmp) and checked . Alternator housing / alternator bracket/ engine block and engine earth point , with the other black lead , all came in at 0.03 which is quite good as you look for 0.05 or less . So to be honest I'm a little stumped . All readings ok . Thinking out taking leads off battery , leaving it few minutes the reconnecting ( bloke thing if it don't work turn it off and on ...lol)
AGAIN MASSIVE , HUGE THANK YOU for your advice .
 
Right just swam to car .
Engine turned on .
Multi meter on , black lead in neg point of battery .
Touched with red lead D+ bolt , then nut , then wire , all gave reading of 5.96 .
To be honest don't know if that's good or bad .
Whilst I was there check red lead as well gave me reading of 14.62 .
 
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