broadoakboy

broadoakboy

New Member
Hi

Is this an easy job and could I do it myself??

I have a basic understanding and small amount of ability!!

And, if I needed to replace the discs, is that a DIY job as well?

Many thanks
 
One of the easyest jobs going and changing the discs is a lot easer than on a D1.
The LRO mag showed how to do it a few months ago.
Get your self a Haynes manual from Halfords or download the LR workshop manual.

But if your not sure then for safety let some one else do the work for you.

If you put your location in your post there may be a D2 owner just around the corner to you, you never know.
 
Last edited:
As Discool says, but you need to have axle stands and a decent jack before you get wheels off and start stripping.

Also make sure you have good quality sockets to undo the main caliper bolts, they are bi-hexagonal, very tight and if rusted will get damaged by worn sockets.

A G-clamp to compress the caliper pistons is handy.

Peter
 
Changing the pads is straight forward, when you pull up the caliper dont let the ABS wire come under tension. Remember there are twin pistons on the front and you need to depress them both simultaneously, depress one only and the other will pop out.
To remove the disc you need a 19mm socket and note the bolts are tensioned to about 120ft/lbs front and 70 for the rear brakes.
Winjeel
 
PASTMASTER said:
It might be best to use Genuine pads - using non-genuine pads is said to be one cause of 3 Amigos.
Click to expand...

yes, hear this quite a bit, but I personally dont see why they would, and genuine pads are just to overpriced imo, I threw mintex in mine, done 6000 miles with no issue so far
 
Many thanks for the great advice, I'll buy the bits of kit i'm missing (axle stands and clamps) and give it a go this weekend.

One drama already though. Thought i'd take a wheel off just to check the condition of the calipers/bolts etc and the bloody locking wheel nut key (the one with 2 pins in it) has ruined the wheel bolt, and I cant get the wheel off!!! The metal is so soft it's just bent and then broken a small piece off where the 2 pins engage. I noticed the locking wheel nut has a thread running down the middle of it, is that so something can be screwed in to help me get the bolt undone.

What do I do, I thought i'd change the pads myself to save money and this is turning into a nightmare!!

Anyone live near Weston-super-Mare and not doing anything for a morning!!??!! I'll buy the bits and you can have all the tea and cake you can eat!!
 
Urban Panzer said:
yes, hear this quite a bit, but I personally dont see why they would, and genuine pads are just to overpriced imo, I threw mintex in mine, done 6000 miles with no issue so far
Click to expand...
It seems to be a US problem - could be their non-genuine parts are less well made. Or it may be because they have more dust there. It's the squealing/vibration that's supposed to set them off. I wouldn't have thought there's be any problem with a make like Mintex.
 
broadoakboy said:
the bloody locking wheel nut key (the one with 2 pins in it) has ruined the wheel bolt, and I cant get the wheel off!!! The metal is so soft it's just bent and then broken a small piece off where the 2 pins engage. I noticed the locking wheel nut has a thread running down the middle of it, is that so something can be screwed in to help me get the bolt undone.

What do I do, I thought i'd change the pads myself to save money and this is turning into a nightmare!!
Click to expand...

There's a character (mine is an "M" I think) - stamped on the locking nut key - that's the one you need to order... You can get them off ebay - see example http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Locking-Wheel...s_SM?hash=item3ca4b13b4d&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
 
I used Lucas/TRW discs & pads all round in mine-all good so far.
Using non genuine parts & having 3 amigo issues is a major myth...
 
O, ok. I get lights coming on all the time!!
The other day the amber suspension light (the one with the disco outline and two arrows at the back) and audio chime came on. I stopped, turned off the ignition, restarted it and all was ok in the world. Land Rover electronics eh!!??
 
I have done about 200K/kms on non-genuine and had no problems with the brakes or the 3M's.
As to the security nut, they get mangled by people using rattle guns when refitting a wheel. There is enough meat on the nut to engage it with a good Stilson spanner, at least to undo it. Stilsons are not the most elegant tool but will do this job.
Winjeel
 
Many thanks, but any idea what the thread running down the inside of the wheel nut is for? (the wheel nut and not the key)
I took a regular wheel nut off of my wifes car to see if it would screw in and then I could turn that, but it was just too thin.
 
broadoakboy said:
Many thanks, but any idea what the thread running down the inside of the wheel nut is for? (the wheel nut and not the key)
I took a regular wheel nut off of my wifes car to see if it would screw in and then I could turn that, but it was just too thin.
Click to expand...


So the same locking nut can be used for the spare wheel on the back door.
 
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