My 2003 TD4 auto has now got a suspected blown turbo and I think its all down to my lazy arse not changing the crankcase breather filter!
This is why:

I noticed a small amount of oil seeping out of the dip stick and pulled it out when the engine running - this got some oil venting out of the dip stick hole.

This means change the crankcase breather filter instantly.

I did nothing but kept an eye on the oil level.

One long run later and boom lots of smelly smoke out of exhaust - so bad I had to be recovered.

First thing I did was change crankcase breather filter and old one was well bunged up.

Next went the EGR and bypass fitted - lots of oil in the pipe work.

This did not solve my problem but she starts first time and now runs a lot better at tick over. I thought I had cracked it but when on test run as soon as engine demand went high lots of smoke started again.

Currently trying to remove turbo and all pipe removed so far are full of oil.

Once turbo changed will update but while you wait go out and....

change the crankcase breather filter!


Whirligig

When you fit your replacement turbo either fit NEW oil lines ( feed and return ) or clean them out VERY thoroughly otherwise you risk screwing up your turbo again !!

ie:- make sure theyre spotless and a new oil filter and oil change are a must.

I would personally drop the oil after around 2-300 miles and start again with clean new oil as this is cheap insurance for your turbo's health.

Thanks for the tip.

The return oil line is the reason turbo not removed - stopped for the day to recharge enthusiasm! (and find the bolts for step 11)

Using the following method:

gb8man gb8man is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 19
Default how to change turbo on a TD4
Can you change the turbo on a freelander TD4 without removing the IRD? well the simple answer is yes... i have just removed the turbo on my hippo and i will share.

Jack up and support vehicle with axle stands

1. remove engine cover
2. remover air filter cover
3. remove air filter
4. remove turbo hose from pressure side of turbo (outlet) two jubilee clips and from MAF (inlet) two clips and it slides right off.
5. remove the turbo control solenoid complete with bracket (this can be done from above)
6. remove oil banjo bolt
Now comes the tricky bit
7. from under the car remove the retaining bolt on the exhaust pipe
8. gaining access from the passenger side wheel arch where the steering rod goes through (using extensions) remove the other retaining bolt on the exhaust.
9. for easy access to mounting bolts and oil return hose cable tie exhaust out of the way.
10. with your arm up over the top of the IRD you can access the jubilee clips for the return hose (6mm ratchet does the trick)
11. just above the return hose there are two 13mm retaining bolts for the turbo (good pic of this in haynes manual) you have to go by feel but it's not too bad.
12. all that is now holding the turbo on are the three bolts that are accessed through the air filter housing.
13. remove three rubber bungs and push down heat protection plate and slide toward windscreen.
14. with this remove there are three 10mm bolts accessed through the holes.
15. OMG the turbo is off.

don't think I've missed anything


i actually did step 11 last..... i didn't know the bolts were there and was wondering why i couldn't get the bloody thing off. doing this last i was able to support the turbo from underneath and remove it that way.

I did this on my own (billy no mates) i have no previous landrover experience but i do know my way round a tool box and it took three/four hours. now i know where everything is i rec it could be done in 45mins to and hour with only the need to replace one gasket.

I just did my breather filter 5 minutes ago. Fairly easy job apart from those funny star screws holding the injector harness in, they are in the bin and some #10 self tapping pozis added. My filter was very, very oily but not fully clogged in the middle, and the gaskets seemed fairly flexible. I have no service history with the car so I have no idea when it was last changed.
-Hazel

Wise move - changing it.

I've just got the turbo off (the two 13mm bolts are a killer - step 11)

Its full of oil so ebay for a new one.

Well new turbo on and test run good, well after initial scare - first couple of miles still smoking bad but then burnt off.
Now have a further problem, must have nipped/kinked oil return pipe which has now developed a split! New one ordered but looks like IRD will have to come off to fit new one, Aaaah.
Turbo came from Nerings (ebay) and cost £249.08 (with £100 bond for return of old one) and must admit very good service.

£150 For a recon turbo is not bad at all.

Oops, sorry I meant £250 + £100 bond - so £250 for turbo. This was average price on eBay and I didn't want to chance chancing the core.