Hi many thanks for your reply,i thought the same about the solenoid,also the circuit should open to either pink or orange when moving solenoid and getting nothing from either wire when moving it by hand and 12v supply to brown/pink,so must be duff then,many thanks for your help.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Do you mean you move the solenoid by hand not locking unlocking with the key in the latch? moving the solenoid would not do the whole job cos you have to close the internal swicthes of the actuator with the key to lock/unlock in order to get a complete central locking result
had it all installed on the car first and same result ,cheers.
discool
Well-Known Member
Ok where is this solenoid ?
All you have in a D1s central locking system are actuators, if the master actuator link rod that operates the lock is remove you can carefully move the actuator back and forward which will lock/unlock the four other doors, thats if the wiring is installed correctly and the is voltage.
The switching arrangements within the master actuator could be faulty, theres a lot in confined space hence my suggestion is manually operated carefully.
Your disco should have a 5 wire master actuator unlike the diagram in #15 post showing 4, the fifth wire is for remote central locking so is redundant as your just using manual system so should be connected.
All you have in a D1s central locking system are actuators, if the master actuator link rod that operates the lock is remove you can carefully move the actuator back and forward which will lock/unlock the four other doors, thats if the wiring is installed correctly and the is voltage.
The switching arrangements within the master actuator could be faulty, theres a lot in confined space hence my suggestion is manually operated carefully.
Your disco should have a 5 wire master actuator unlike the diagram in #15 post showing 4, the fifth wire is for remote central locking so is redundant as your just using manual system so should be connected.
even though it works when earth and 12v applied to the pink & orange it works both ways,and thats all that happens,many thanks for your help.
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discool
Well-Known Member
The actuator switch will change the direction of the 12v, the earth remains fixed.
So when the actuator rod is re connected and the key is turned all the door locks should operate, I assume u removed the the drivers door actuator from the door, so when refitting there maybe is a small bit of adjustment required for that to happen in both directions, that why the four screw holes of the fixing plate are elongated.
Sent from my iPad on a train.
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Looks like it, set multimeter to continuity and check across the black wire and orange while you move the plunger to lock/unlock then do the same between black and pink then between brown/pink and pink and the other two one at a time... you should get continuity at a certain move in all these cases, if not means that actuator is internaly fubar
Will try that and let you no,many thanks
Hi had another look today,all the locks work when power is put to each lock individually,but not when just sent from drivers wiring.Upon further investigation the orange and pink lock/unlock wires seem to both have continuity even if you put one probe in orange and the other in pink on all the doors,no matter if going from any door to any door or at individual doors,so must be a short somewhere.Removed fuse box all seems ok,and each door wiring trunking,no brocken or bare wires,any ideas please.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
You quoted my previous reply but seems that you didnt understand it or i misunderstood your reply cos it's about continuity between the black wire and the others... read again what i said and tell me the result of that
Hi I understand it perfectly fine thanks, but just need to no where do the pink and orange start from and should there be continuity between them both, when I put my multimeter probs in any of the plugs to each solenoid I get continuity from the end that connects to the motors not from the motors, so obviously something is shorting some where, from dash area, any hints please.
discool
Well-Known Member
Ok, the master actuator will have a pink and an orange wire feed the slaves in parallel, also a brown/pink wire which is the permanent 12v supply and finally the black wire connect to earth.
If the connections are complete, then turning the key in the drivers door lock the actuator will switch 12volts to the slaves… depending on which way the key is turned, so all very simple.
If this doesn’t happen then test for the voltage into the actuator and then out on either the pink or orange when the key is turned, so if there’s voltage into but not out of the actuator then the actuator is iffy as it isn't switching, and if so simply replace the actuator.
If the connections are complete, then turning the key in the drivers door lock the actuator will switch 12volts to the slaves… depending on which way the key is turned, so all very simple.
If this doesn’t happen then test for the voltage into the actuator and then out on either the pink or orange when the key is turned, so if there’s voltage into but not out of the actuator then the actuator is iffy as it isn't switching, and if so simply replace the actuator.
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Hi many thanks for your reply, I will try that, I have put 12v from drivers side plug, with actuator disconnected and still they don't all lock and unlock, but if I connect each individually they all work both ways, I also have continuity to them all. But what is strange is with any of the motors unplugged and multimeter probes in the pink and orange in the same plug they all have continuity, many thanks.
talbotracer
Member
i have the same problem, not going to worry about it but i did find this wiring diagram if it helps.
