Bife

Bife

Active Member
Hi

My doors have gradually stopped unlocking with fob as the years have passed, and the final one (driver's door, LHD) stopped unlocking with fob recently, so I have decided to finally do something about it.
The tailgate opens and locks still tho.

What I don't understand is that all doors will still lock with the fob

Surely, if the motor fails it will fail in both polarities?
And since they failed one by one, its not going to be a fuse issue?
And if they lock its not going to be a wiring issue?

However, I know there are two motors in each door, but I thought 'the other one' was for the dead-locking thing - so you can lock annoying children and wives (or husbands etc) inside?

Or does the deadlock motor also unlock the doors?

Since there are 4 doors gone, buying full locks is too expensive for my Scottish genes, so I was going to get replacement motors, and swear at the car whilst trying to get the locks out and especially in, but now am not sure if that is going to fix it

Can anyone answer my questions, please?

Cheers

EDIT: More Info
Tailgate only unlocks on 2nd press (I think normal)
When inside, locking with fob puts all doors deadlocked and unlock press removes deadlock
There is a 'schunk' noise that seems to come from all/most doors when I press unlock on fob, even after deadlock unlocked
When I lock, dash hazards flash and red light flashes quickly for 2 or 3 seconds, then red light flashes slowly
Brand new correct Varta battery in fob - second one to be sure
 
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I can't completely answer your questions, but yes two motors one for locking & one for unlocking, I think the locking one also unlocks the dead lock otherwise how would you get the doors to open once locked, or do you have to unlock each door from inside?

Another point is taking these locks apart is not an easy task, clips break because they have become brittle overtime, it is very invasive and time consuming with not 100% results.

R40 lock but i think FL1 are the same and Mini ones may also fit.
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1

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2

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3

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4

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5

you can see the black marks where the motor as been wearing away slowly over time.
 
Arctic2 said:
or do you have to unlock each door from inside?
Click to expand...
Yes, one click on the fob unlocks the deadlocks, a second click only unlocks tailgate, but since deadlock is now off I can then open the doors from the inside after entering the driver's door using the key (unlocking the driver's door with the key doesn't unlock the other doors which I think it should as it makes an all round 'schunk')
When you say Mini, do you mean the BMW mini I guess?
And R40 is Rover 75?

I also found this


The thing is I think they are over a hundred quid each new

EDIT: Yup!
£125 Back https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001787
£115 Front https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001786

So that would be 500 quid, plus I need to get them down here!
 
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Reard this it seems you posted on the thread anyways.

www.landyzone.co.uk

Freelander 1 - Driver Door does not unlock with Fob

Hey all! I have been reading across some forums where people are having issues with doors not unlocking / locking with the Fob. Since I got my 1.8 F1 the Driver door has never unlocked with the fob but it does lock, I always thought that this was just how it was and didn't give it a second...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
pwood999 said:
Plenty on eBay for around £25-£50.
Click to expand...
second hand, or new?
I had a quick look but will look again.
I dont really want to go second hand as they will be about to go as well, or already not work

EDIT: You must have meant 2nd hand
I'm going to try to get my RAVE working on my Win 11, or check on my Win 10 lappy to see if its working on that - then check if the two motors are explained anywhere there
Then I'll get some motors like in that other thread from Ali Express and give it a go
 
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Well, I got RAVE working again in Windows 10 at least and it says that one motor is for CDL (Central Door Locking) and one for Superlock
So from how mine is behaving (CDLing only works on lock but not on unlock, Superlock working) it seems to me that the CDL motor must have died but the Superlock one is working, AND that when the Superlock motour unSuperlocks it also mecahnically unlocks the CDL
Unless the CCU is messing around of course, but then why would that happen for progressively more doors, and for my money its the motors that are likely to go (brushes etc)

1728576562728.png


1728576824391.png


From various suppliers' websites I have seen that the LH & RH door lock assemblies are handed for RHD & LHD so I would have to buy from 'Europe' if looking at ebay 2nd hand (unless someone is breaking a LHD one in UK). And they are bloody expensive for second hand parts that are the same age as the ones that the motors are all shot on
 
If the eBay lock is working, you could just use the motors to repair yours ? Or maybe take one of yours apart & check the motor part number. Motors like these are still used in loads of vehicles, and there's various China suppliers that make them.

There's usually a number like these, but you need to check the gear length & pitch.

1728577561076.png
1728577666912.png


This one says it's for LR, etc. but doesn't look like Arctic's pictures above.

These from AliExpress specify FL2. No idea if FL1 & FL2 use same motors.
 
It is possible to renovate the actual motors. Doing so got me another couple of years use out of mine. https://www.instructables.com/Repair-Mini-Cooper-Electric-Door-Lock-Actuator-L/

I did previously buy a secondhand complete assembly from eBay. But it had the same problem. Probably a common problem due to age.

For my final attempt I did get some of those motors from Ali Express. They had me scratching my head as the motors worked but my lock no longer functioned. After a lot of timewasting and faffing around I worked out the polarity of the motors were reversed. So I had to take the end off the motor and rotate it 180 degrees. They now work fine.

So before fitting those motors, it’s worth checking the polarity is right.

Just replacing the motors has worked for me. But it is a time consuming strip down, and rebuild. Clips will break, but they don’t seem to be important. The screws do a good job holding it all together.
 
4Bee4Bee said:
It is possible to renovate the actual motors. Doing so got me another couple of years use out of mine. https://www.instructables.com/Repair-Mini-Cooper-Electric-Door-Lock-Actuator-L/

I did previously buy a secondhand complete assembly from eBay. But it had the same problem. Probably a common problem due to age.

For my final attempt I did get some of those motors from Ali Express. They had me scratching my head as the motors worked but my lock no longer functioned. After a lot of timewasting and faffing around I worked out the polarity of the motors were reversed. So I had to take the end off the motor and rotate it 180 degrees. They now work fine.

So before fitting those motors, it’s worth checking the polarity is right.

Just replacing the motors has worked for me. But it is a time consuming strip down, and rebuild. Clips will break, but they don’t seem to be important. The screws do a good job holding it all together.
Click to expand...
That is also a big help!
Thanks!
Are all the motors reversed polarity?
As in on all 4 doors, and each of the two motors in each door?
 
Probably best to take a lock apart and see which one you need. Test them both on a 12v battery. Swap polarity and should go other way. One will be rough.
 
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