sierrafery said:
I explained that few times and even experienced it myself as at the beginning when i didnt know anything about D2 i followed a tutorial to cut the difff-lock input wire to the SLABS to retain TC with locked diff and i lost motion in mud this way while after i studied deeply how TC works i understood what can happen so believe me or not there are cases when TC can come in conflict with the locked diff with pre-facelift SLABS, i think that's why even LR made it as to inhibit TC and ABS when the diff is locked and then asked wabco to upgrade the soft as TC to work together with CDL on facelifts which software was more updated on late 2004 modells

so the best setup is CDL + SRD500070 with wich the D2 is unbeatable no need for any axle locker
Click to expand...
Nomen of that makes any sense to me. The Td5 Defender has a centre diff lock and TCS. And the TCS only works per axle anyhow. Having a centre diff lock will only complement it.
 
sierrafery said:
There are cases in the field when wheel speeds can be different on axle even with CDL, only the propshafts will spin together.... and yes, the TC can operate on only one wheel if that's the result of it's calculations
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This isn’t correct. The wheels are directly connected to the props. This means with the centre diff locked the front and rear wheel speeds will be the same. The axle diff may mean it is only 1 wheel per axle. But front and rear will match. Unless you have a busted driveline.
 
mad85 said:
so, yesterday continued on my work and after i removed the center console, i found out that the black and blue diff lock wire from the harness is not connected to anything going to the transfercase. A close inspection of the underside, i also noticed that there is a black (ground) and black and green wire not connected to anything, just hanging near the gearbox. I know for sure that the wires originate from the same harness as the black blue wire. I also tried to short them but that did not light up anything on the dash. Was thinking about cutting the green black wire and splicing it in the blue black wire, so that I can use that, without having to pass a new wire. Question is ... anyone knows what that green black wire is for?
Click to expand...
Yes, find the black/green wire at the connector under the console, route it to the black/blue which goes toward the dash and connect the B/G and B wires to the diff-lock switch... the B/G wire is not used on EU modells only on NAS autos
300bhp/ton said:
Nomen of that makes any sense to me. The Td5 Defender has a centre diff lock and TCS
Click to expand...
it happens to not get any sense when you dont know how the D2's ABS system works, it's not like the defender which has a more rudimentary system which doesnt have VSS at all
300bhp/ton said:
This isn’t correct. The wheels are directly connected to the props. This means with the centre diff locked the front and rear wheel speeds will be the same
Click to expand...
Really? :eek: ... then why would you need TC?... only the prop-shaft's speed is the same, you should learn what's going on in a differential then maybe it will make sense
 
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sierrafery said:
Yes, find the black/green wire at the connector under the console, route it to the black/blue which goes toward the dash and connect the B/G and B wires to the diff-lock switch... the B/G wire is not used on EU modells only on NAS autos
Click to expand...

ok, good to know, cause that is exactly what I did... saves the time to pass a new wire + it is already properly shielded
 
no... the switch is broken... need to replace that. I found this (short) how-to. Is this correct? anything to add?

Pop car in difflock and slowly screw in sensor till difflock light comes on, then screw in half a turn more, then lock position with the little halfnut
 
I didnt know this procedure but might be good to not stress the switch, mine was just screwed in untill it went, important is to see the light working with locked diff and out with it unlocked, to check your setup just bridge the two plugs together at the transfer box then if everithing is OK the light should come on
 
yes, i already tested my wiring just by connecting a new switch and all is fine. The switch I have in my transfer case has a lead missing, so pretty sure it wont work :)
 
Hello guys,
Few days ago I finished working on my D2.
I installed a rebuilt Transfer Box from Ashcroft with 1.41 ratio to compensate the large tires.
The transfer box was also built with diff lock, sleeved case, hd cross pin and hi capacity sump. Basically,I did everything for the transfer box now.

I connected the wires to difflock switch. If I engage the CDL with engine running, the difflock lamp turns on. If I engage the CDL with ignition off, then start the engine, I get ABS light on together with difflock light.
Why I am not getting the TC and HDC lights also on assuming I have a pre-facelift model?
 

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I can’t give you details but but I know you have two options, the cheap one is to fine a certain wire and install a switch but I don’t know which wire or where it is... option two is to get a later SLABS unit that is updated to eliminate this issue. I’m not sure if you can update your current SLABS firmware to deal with it.

It’s probably worth reposting this under the specific forum page for your vehicle.

On the other hand @sierrafery may come along and shed some light from his incredible knowledge on this.
 
I have read all these posts and I already know the ways I will have to go through.
Considering I like to have everything working properly, I will be looking for a newer SLABS unit SRD500070.

I am wondering why I'm not getting all the 3 amigos on like others do
 
Do the TC & HDC come on at all? It wouldn’t be the first time someone had put tape over them to stop them showing to get through an MOT (tho it should fail on them not showing in the first place...)
 
Ok, I went for a more detailed test with nanocom, and found out that HDC and TRC were disabled from BCU Instruments.
Now, when starting engine with CDL engaged, I have the TC and ABS lights on.
Shall I search more for HDC light to come on?
Btw, when turning ignition in, it does light up, however it down stays on with CDL
 

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I was at a wedding last night so bear with me cos i'm quite intoxicated.... my apologies for the following: RTFM ...then you'll see that only the ABS and TC are supposed to be on, the HDC is not involved

TC D2.jpg
 
sandu said:
Ok, I went for a more detailed test with nanocom, and found out that HDC and TRC were disabled from BCU Instruments.
Now, when starting engine with CDL engaged, I have the TC and ABS lights on.
Shall I search more for HDC light to come on?
Btw, when turning ignition in, it does light up, however it down stays on with CDL
Click to expand...
I had similar issues and changing the SLABS ECU (to SRD000150) has solved my problem. I have bought it cheap (about 20 pounds) so worth to try.
 
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