Actually just tried earthing the BU wire with the BLG disconnected & although it lights up the dash light, moving it out of difflock doesn`t switch the dash light off.
 
I have not cut the BU wire. I was merely pointing out if I were to cut it I could put heatshrink sleeving over it. I have cut Black/light green wire from pin 1 & then seperated the outer sheath using wire strippers on pin 39 blue /black wire Bu & twisted the cut BLG wire round the Blue/black wire. Only thing I did was do it on the other side of the connector (C0223 side) as access was easier.
 
Actually just tried earthing the BU wire with the BLG disconnected & although it lights up the dash light, moving it out of difflock doesn`t switch the dash light off.
i think i was clear enough and you keep complicating things... the cdl light will be on as long as the BU wire is earthed no matter what you do with the BLG and switch... pleaase see again the post with the diagram and try to understand it cos i'm getting nervous
 
I am getting confused too now lol. I have done exactly as per the diagram you posted, just on connector C0223 side that plugs into C0047 & nothing lights up on the dash.
I then earthed the wires that I had twisted together as in your diagram & both the high temp ligh & cdl light lit up on the dash. I then removed the BLG wire I had twisted round the BU wire & earthed that & only the cdl light came on, but this stayed on wether diff lock was on or off.
 
It's irrelevant on which side of the connector you work... the simplest explanation i can give you is that: the switched earth on the BLG wire from the transfer box when the diff is locked(which brings on the oil temp light) must go into the BU wire for the CDL light to bring it up, simple as that, i dont know nor understand what you are doing there, find somebody who knows to read a diagram and ask for an explanation maybe i can't put it the right way in english but as i said i've done this not once and if it's made as i explained it should work... the direct earth was just to test the lamp it has to be removed
 
Yes I understand you fine & have done exactly as you have stated, but it still doesn`t work & I was wondering if there was another explanation as to why as like you say it should work. I can load a picture if you like ?
 
The cut BLG wire has to remain free upwards and you have to connect the side which comes from below to the BU wire cos now i think you spliced into the BU with the upper side of the BLG wire which comes from the lamp not from the CDL switch
 
dan iphone 2020 117.JPG
I have spliced in the correct side but worth noting. I will upload pics
dan iphone 2020 115.JPG
dan iphone 2020 115.JPG
dan iphone 2020 115.JPG
dan iphone 2020 116.JPG
 
Last edited:
Unfortunately those pics dont help me much. If with your setup now you connect the direct earth to the splice point and both oil and cdl lamps are coming on you have to undo the BLG wire and splice in with the other side of it that's sure
 
Ok I will try that then just there doesn`t seem much length in the loom to get onto the wire to splice. Do you have any advice ?
 
If it's not enough lenght in the BLG wire means that you left the side which goes toward C0223 free and spliced in with the other side didnt you ? .. if that's the case which means it was the wrong move take another piece of wire and splice into both or do what ever you can to fix that
 
Last edited:
I meant length in the complete loom. Again I need to take more time looking at diagrams and not rushing. I presumed the side I cut & spliced from C0223 wich was toward the rear of the vehicle, was the loom coming from the tansfer box (this was not the case, wich if I took the laptop out with me & checked the schematic I would have seen) I did indeed have to make the splice on the Co 047 side & now all works as it should with many thanks to sierraferry. I like to share how I do things and admit to the mistakes I make along the way as that is how we & others learn. If you are ever over in England I owe you a few beers.
 
Hi, two different hings here, the wire which is supposed to be cut(C0506-9) on early modells is for other reason(TC related) and i dont recommend that regardless of SLABS ECU... your problem is that on some late facelifts there is no circuit for the CDL warning but there is the wiring for the transfer box oil temp switch(C0686, unused) which brings on the transmission high temp warning so for the CDL warning you have to reroute that circuit

one of the connectors you connected to the CDL switch has a black/light green(BLG) wire attached which should be black/blue so if you dont find a similar terminal with BU wire you'll have to go to C0047 cut the BLG wire from pin 1 and splice into BU wire at pin 39, this is for manual modells so if your's is auto it'll be a bit harder cos you'll have o remove the centre console and cut at C0681 pin 4(BLG) and splice into pin 7(BU) as to retain the gearbox oil temp warning ... i cropped the relevant part of the diagram for you:

View attachment 206162
Hi hope you are still on this thread. We have fitted a pre 2000 transfer box (full box) to my 2004 (manual) discovery to get CDL, works perfectly other than mechanic has got the transfer box oil waring light coming on when diff lock is engaged. I understand this is NOT wired up for a manual gear box, is that correct? Installed transfer box has the old single CDL switch. My question is does it make any difference to performance if we leave it wired up to temp, rather that CDL indicator? Only a light user of CDL mostly on grass steep banks which can be very slippery and TC is useless as low revs needed. Note we fitted an Ashcroft limited slip diff in the rear but found this totally ineffective so was advised to fit SDL as well. Now have at least 3 wheeled drive. Not sure if I should follow the advice above re cutting wires if no CDL wiring is on my 2004 model. Any advise would be much appreciated.
 
I understand this is NOT wired up for a manual gear box, is that correct?
Partially correct as it has noting to do if the box is manual or auto, it can be wired or not regardless of gearbox type but just untill one point under the dash from where the circuit is there for all hence all the previous discussion in this thread

My question is does it make any difference to performance if we leave it wired up to temp, rather that CDL indicator?
Not at all

Not sure if I should follow the advice above re cutting wires if no CDL wiring is on my 2004 model.
You have to cut only if you want the CDL warning to work instead of the oil temp warning
 
Last edited:
Partially correct as it has noting to do if the box is manual or auto, it can be wired or not regardless of gearbox type but just untill one point under the dash from where the circuit is there for all hence all the previous discussion in this thread


Not at all


You have to cut only if you want the CDL warning to work instead of the oil temp warning
Thanks so much for the replies. Have booked it back into the garage to see if the wiring is there for 2 CDL switch connectors. Perhaps see if we can connect pre 2000 switch to 2004 wiring. But as advise is that it will work OK as is, if that fails will leave it alone. The CDL and the Ashford rear LSD, do give it much more grip. Once again your advise appreciated.
 
Perhaps see if we can connect pre 2000 switch to 2004 wiring.
There is an adaptor for that if your's has the CDL switch connector there, on some modells it isnt there at all, if you bridge the pins in it the warning should come on with ignition

google out YQM105170 but you can cut that connector and fit two female spades instead to go on the switch


on a second thought, it would be good to restore that input cos it goes to the SLABS ECU too which is good to know that the CDL is locked
 
There is an adaptor for that if your's has the CDL switch connector there, on some modells it isnt there at all, if you bridge the pins in it the warning should come on with ignition

google out YQM105170 but you can cut that connector and fit two female spades instead to go on the switch


on a second thought, it would be good to restore that input cos it goes to the SLABS ECU too which is good to know that the CDL is locked
Thanks. Will post when we have had another go at it.
 
There is an adaptor for that if your's has the CDL switch connector there, on some modells it isnt there at all, if you bridge the pins in it the warning should come on with ignition

google out YQM105170 but you can cut that connector and fit two female spades instead to go on the switch


on a second thought, it would be good to restore that input cos it goes to the SLABS ECU too which is good to know that the CDL is locked
Thank you for all your input- will finish my
Job tomorrow!

I got a disco2 2004, intresting part is I don’t have a HighLow sensor in my transfer case! Maybe the previous owner used a transfer case of a D1? Any ideas would be intresting to know - I got the stickers in the car showing the difflock- no wires for the diff though.

(Made my wires similar but I use the HighLow cables for the difflock sensor my hill decent would now engage in High as well but I just don’t click the button)

My question: which wires where to cut to have TQ working with difflock engaged? Could you send me the right direction please.
 
(Made my wires similar but I use the HighLow cables for the difflock sensor my hill decent would now engage in High as well but I just don’t click the button)
Which means that when you lock the diff the ECUs get the low input so when the transfer case is in high the engine ECU goes to the low gear fuel map and the engine is overfuelled also the SLABS ECU doesnt know that the diff is locked to addapt it's activity to that unless you spliced into the diff-lock input circuit too...

do you see the diff lock warning on when you lock it?
My question: which wires where to cut to have TQ working with difflock engaged?

If by TQ you mean traction controll on a 2004 you dont have to cut any wires. However, if the SLABS doesnt know that the diff is locked the TC would work normally if needed but not needed too much with locked diff also in some rare cases TC and locked diff can come in a "conflict" and make things worst.

So run separate wires for the diff lock only for that particular circuit and for low input use a switch on the console to use it when you select low gear otherwise the whole management is mixed up and even if you think it works well it's not.
 

Similar threads