Tony, why the transfer box neutral? It's not necessary, if you can test just by jacking one front wheel then you can test just by turning (or attempting to turn) the front output shaft as long as the gearbox is in neutral for a manual and not in park if it's an auto.

Yeah i know Keith. But with transfer in neutral you are not turning gearbox shafts, just makes it that much easier to do. He only has a socket and ratchet. I would not normally do that, would use a torque wrench or 18" bar, but just giving him a chance of moving it with what he has, if it's going to move. I know UJ looked dry and that could be the problem, but still leaning towards VCU seized to be honest.
 
To complete the info on Island: I bought UJ from them (the cheapest ones) and they have a greaser (see pic). The box is blue but I don’t know if they are Britpart. I can’t evaluate Britpart products yet but Island service yes and I definitely recommend them (no connection to them).
 

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Update!

Wammers I put the transfer box in neutral using the 10amp fuse in slot 10, got a 2 foot hollow bar (which I'm now keeping for future) on the ratchet and it moves mate. Still with the transfer box in N it was very firm to move but once it stated moving it moved quite well along with the output flange!

Quite pleased with that I'm glad I checked it armed with your info ;)
 
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Sounds similar prob to mine.. knocking on full lock, not using at the mo due to reasons that you suffered, but taking in to garage this week to try to establish what it is.
 
Update!

Wammers I put the transfer box in neutral using the 10amp fuse in slot 10, got a 2 foot hollow bar (which I'm now keeping for future) on the ratchet and it moves mate. Still with the transfer box in N it was very firm to move but once it stated moving it moved quite well along with the output flange!

Quite pleased with that I'm glad I checked it armed with your info ;)


Good man, stick a prop on then. Got there in the end. Sure it should be fuse position 11 though. :):):)
 

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