b3nc123
Active Member
Sadly I doubt the work situation will sort it's self out for a while because I'm a useless c*nt.
I need to make a plan and stick to it, instead of burying my head in the sand like I have been doing of late.
But like you say new year, new start (maybe)
Anyway, what's left,
That's about it I think, probably a few other bits and bobs that I've forgot about as I've not touched it for ages.
- Make an exhaust. Got a little bit of pipe, not sure on best way yet (cut and weld, manufactured bends or buy a bender)
- HD springs on front. Buy and fit.
- Shocks all round. Buy and fit.
- Make diff lock selector.
- Make high/low selector.
- Make gear stick.
- Few jubilee clips on intercooler hoses where I ran out and general check over the hole thing and final tart up.
So not a mega amount, just lost interest a bit, so now can't even be arsed to do the cheap bits, cold weather doesn't help mind.
Oh and pics of tonight's work looks good mate
No chance mate you're not useless, just in a bit of a crap situation (at the minute). You graft and you take pride in your work, you'll go along way.
Doesn't seem like a lot when it's bullet pointed but it adds up time wise, well for me it does anyway lol. You thought about going stainless for the exhaust? Think it would be rude not to personally
Just been to get some (more) last minute things so time to get back in the garage!
b3nc123
Active Member
Cheers mate, hopefully be back on the road for this weekend! The brake pipes were surprisingly easy to make, i don't know the make of the tool in the photo but it is really easy to use. Took 10mins to get the hang of it.
b3nc123
Active Member
Right then, front wide angle prop put on, brakes bled, coolant valve replaced (snapped it off yesterday ), coolant topped up, diff oil replaced. Been for a drive and all seems to work Now need to replace the rear suspension, trailing arms, prop and put on me rear relocation cones on. All before Sunday
), coolant topped up, diff oil replaced. Been for a drive and all seems to work Now need to replace the rear suspension, trailing arms, prop and put on me rear relocation cones on. All before Sunday
b3nc123
Active Member
Has been a bit touch and go today but finally got all the new parts installed / bolted on the rear. The most annoying task was changing the diff flange without a proper puller. Found a decent video but didn't have a socket deep enough so had to improvise with redundant wheel bearing races and a blow torch. If nothing else works, burn it
Just a few pictures,
All ready for its debut in the morning
Cheers
Ben
Just a few pictures,
All ready for its debut in the morning
Cheers
Ben
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
Hey mate, love your project Disco, couldn't help but notice from your front axle photos, think you have the new brake calipers on upside down, i.e. left on right right, on left the bleed nipples and brake pipes should be to the top. you may have trouble getting all the air out of the braking system.
Unless that's the way it appears here "Down Under"
Unless that's the way it appears here "Down Under"
b3nc123
Active Member
Hey mate, love your project Disco, couldn't help but notice from your front axle photos, think you have the new brake calipers on upside down, i.e. left on right right, on left the bleed nipples and brake pipes should be to the top. you may have trouble getting all the air out of the braking system.
Unless that's the way it appears here "Down Under"
Thanks mate. Not sure if i understand you, the bleed nipples are at the top of the callipers on the photo. They just have have a bit of masking tape on them from when i sprayed them. The brake pipe comes from the braided hose to the inlet of the calliper which is on the underside of the caliper (if that makes sense). If i switched them to the opposite sides to what they are now the bleed nipple would be at the bottom, which isn't right.
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
Yeh sorry, I see now, sorry, my woops, I was trying to picture how mine were when I did the front axle rebuild last year, then later I realised you had already road tested.
Nice rig, maybe you need to bring it over here to North Queensland and join us in a trip up The Old Telegraph Track on Cape York in July this year, going up with my Tdi and a mate with a RRC with 300Tdi fitted plus all the fruit, should be good. Gaz
b3nc123
Active Member
Cheers mate. The turrets are 2inches shorter meaning the top shock mounting position is closer to the chassis. What that means in reality is the axle can move more in the downward motion, hopefully keeping the wheel on the ground and providing traction when the front axles articulated.
b3nc123
Active Member
It's only 4 bolts for the turret and then the top nut for the shock. You might find the existing bolts on the turret are a bit tight but nothing some plus gas wont solve. I'd recommend buying another set of turret rings whilst your at it as well just incase you snap any of the threads, and if they are the originals they will probably need replacing anyway.
Adamsiarey
Member
Great work and a great inspiration! I've just started my sills and I have a few questions for you, on the body mounts you made what size was the hole that you cut in them for the mounting bolts to go through? And also did you drill the spot welds out along the floor to remove the old sills? I'm doing mine in box section but I can see how to remove them in one go? I've drilled out all spot welds on the bottom of the pillars but that's as far as I've got unless I'm just being really thick lol thanks
