jbenekeorr · Jan 3, 2015

Hi all,

I can't get the sedimenter off my disco to clean it. I've located the bolt, it just seems to slip when I put my 11mm spanner on it, and the 10mm doesn't fit.

Have I got the right size? If so, what are my other options? I got very dirty and very angry.

heggars · Jan 3, 2015

it's not metric you need 5/8 or an adustable

ronsealdeath · Jan 3, 2015

Just bypass it, defenders dont have them. I believe it was put in to account for poor quality fuels in other countries.

jbenekeorr · Jan 3, 2015

heggars said:
it's not metric you need 5/8 or an adustable

That would explain it. Most of my metric spanners are embedded in the underneath of my disco anyway after my hissy fit yesterday.

I'll try a 5/8, thanks!!

robbh · Jan 3, 2015

ronsealdeath said:
Just bypass it, defenders dont have them. I believe it was put in to account for poor quality fuels in other countries.

^^^What he said!

Completely bloody pointless things that are more hassle than they are worth.
Mines been bypassed with a simple piece of rubber fuel pipe and no trouble at all since doing it.

jbenekeorr · Jan 3, 2015

I've not got any pipe etc to bypass it with, and I already have new seals for it. But I think maybe I'll bypass it when the weather is nicer. Sounds like it won't have any adverse effects if removed then

Fizzer · Jan 3, 2015

Removed mine, and ran a pipe from the tank to to the lift pump, about 3 months ago. Not had any issues, as yet. I will have a look at the lift pump filter /strainer in a month or two (when the weather is "more appropriate") if there is anything in there I will replace it but in a position with easier access.

ronsealdeath · Jan 3, 2015

Delphi lift pumps have a mini sediment trap in the head which is serviceable so this is a much better bet than bothering with the sedimenter

ventus W2 · Jan 3, 2015

Mine is 11ml dont bother with 5/8th thats about 14-15 ml, you said 11ml slips....

heggars · Jan 3, 2015

****e your right

horse62 · Jan 3, 2015

Mine was 11mm I turned the spanner over so the cranked part was facing down as it was much easier that way, several tips here inc putting a bag over it

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/cleaning-out-sedimentor-137301.html

markSX · Jan 3, 2015

A Defender doesn't have one, but the Defender tank breather is higher up.
The D1 breather is a lot lower.
When I removed mine it was full of water/crap so it was working as it should.

If you're only using it on the road then remove it, if off roading leave it be.

MrMayze · Jan 3, 2015

Compleatly agree, mine was full of crap and water so must be there for a reason.

Gazbo · Jan 4, 2015

Try a 7/16" AF six point ring or socket spanner, 12 pointers will slip if the head of the bolt you are trying to undo is a bit worn or corroded. Gaz

GRATCH · Jan 4, 2015

ventus W2 said:
Mine is 11ml dont bother with 5/8th thats about 14-15 ml, you said 11ml slips....

5/8" is very nearly 16mm.

Gazbo said:
Try a 7/16" AF six point ring or socket spanner, 12 pointers will slip if the head of the bolt you are trying to undo is a bit worn or corroded. Gaz

7/16" is bigger than 11mm. Agree with the 6 point spanner bit though.

robbh · Jan 4, 2015

markSX said:
A Defender doesn't have one, but the Defender tank breather is higher up.
The D1 breather is a lot lower.
When I removed mine it was full of water/crap so it was working as it should.

If you're only using it on the road then remove it, if off roading leave it be.

Not if you extend the breather.

Exactly what I've done as mine spends most of its time up to the bonnet in mud or water.

markSX · Jan 4, 2015

robbh said:
Not if you extend the breather.

Exactly what I've done as mine spends most of its time up to the bonnet in mud or water.

It's on my to do list with the other breathers, then a snorkel, but that may end up being a home made jobbie.

robbh · Jan 4, 2015

markSX said:
It's on my to do list with the other breathers, then a snorkel, but that may end up being a home made jobbie.

Tis cheaper doing the breathers homemade too

Just need a roll of 6mm o/d pipe like this.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=110828977733&alt=web

Then fittings to make it up. Can all be bought off eBay cheap.

Can't remember the exact bsp size for the threaded holes in the axles and gearboxes though

Think it's either 3/8 bsp or 1/4 bsp. Someone else may know.

In total fittings wise I've used 2 y pieces, 4 screw on fittings, and a 4 into 1 fitting. With one line going up to snorkel.

markSX · Jan 4, 2015

robbh said:
Tis cheaper doing the breathers homemade too

Just need a roll of 6mm o/d pipe like this.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=110828977733&alt=web

Then fittings to make it up. Can all be bought off eBay cheap.

Can't remember the exact bsp size for the threaded holes in the axles and gearboxes though
Think it's either 3/8 bsp or 1/4 bsp. Someone else may know.

In total fittings wise I've used 2 y pieces, 4 screw on fittings, and a 4 into 1 fitting. With one line going up to snorkel.

I already have the pipe and can get fittings for free.
It's time I'm always short of.

Any idea how to do the timing cover breather on an A/C car ? is there a way to do it without drilling and tapping the casing ?

thebiglad · Jan 5, 2015

markSX said:
I already have the pipe and can get fittings for free.
It's time I'm always short of.

Any idea how to do the timing cover breather on an A/C car ? is there a way to do it without drilling and tapping the casing ?

Just as a matter of interest, why would you want one?

There is a wading plug in the bottom of the cover, which should only be plugged when you're wading and there's no oil in the timing chest to expand and contract, like there is in diffs and gearboxes.

Dave

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