mordzy
Active Member
hi all. been a month but had some time over xmas to have another look. first thing i have done is cut some steel tube and made an attachment to spin the oil pump.
before i removed the dizzy i checked the oil level which was at max.... and smelt of petrol again ffs.
For reference the SUs have been serviced, I'm using an electric fule pump (was on the vehicle) and a filter king - malpazi filter that includes regulator set at around 2psi. I can't understand why the oil smells of petrol again....
anyway, figured it was worth spinning the oil pump which made a bearingy sound i think.. might just have been the oil slopping round it i dunno. only managed 5 seconds before the drill went flat and can't find my charger lol.
thought id come in for a brew and post my findings.
before i removed the dizzy i checked the oil level which was at max.... and smelt of petrol again ffs.
For reference the SUs have been serviced, I'm using an electric fule pump (was on the vehicle) and a filter king - malpazi filter that includes regulator set at around 2psi. I can't understand why the oil smells of petrol again....
anyway, figured it was worth spinning the oil pump which made a bearingy sound i think.. might just have been the oil slopping round it i dunno. only managed 5 seconds before the drill went flat and can't find my charger lol.
thought id come in for a brew and post my findings.
mordzy
Active Member
any ideas on the oil smelling of fuel?
With regards this link http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/plus8oil.htm
it says there are 3 options to prime, option 2 is to spin with a drill to prime - is this correct.
2. Turning the Oil Pump Drive Gear
Remove the distributor. Make an adapter to fit the oil pump drive gear
and using an electrical drill, turn the the drive gear until the pump primes.
Well i have used my air drill, a 12mm socket and extension to spin the pump properly (clockwise) for about 2 minutes and i don't get a single squirt of oil out so i definitely have an issue there.
With regards this link http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/plus8oil.htm
it says there are 3 options to prime, option 2 is to spin with a drill to prime - is this correct.
2. Turning the Oil Pump Drive Gear
Remove the distributor. Make an adapter to fit the oil pump drive gear
and using an electrical drill, turn the the drive gear until the pump primes.
Well i have used my air drill, a 12mm socket and extension to spin the pump properly (clockwise) for about 2 minutes and i don't get a single squirt of oil out so i definitely have an issue there.
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classic kev
Well-Known Member
I have always used the drill method to prime oil pump - using a cordless drill and a length of threaded rod with a slot cut in one end. When the pump is primed you can feel the load on the drill.
You say you can't get oil pressure? have you checked the pick up pipe hasn't dropped off (sump off job I'm afraid). If pick up is O.K. and the strainer is clear then you need to be looking toward the oil pump. The only time I have had this type of problem was after an oil change and couldn't prime the pump.
I dropped the sump and pick up checked it all out used flushing oil to prime the pump - no go, used an oil syringe to suck oil in to the pump, tried again, no good. Was really struggling, then it was suggested to me to put the old oil filter on again and see what happens - spin the oil pump up and it primed straight away - the issue was a faulty oil filter; strange but true!
Dunno if that helps or not but hey ho!
You say you are using the fuel pump that was fitted to the vehicle. If the vehicle was an EFI before then the fuel pump will not be suitable for your carb set up.
Either way, I would not try to run it with so much fuel getting through as you will get 'bore wash' which will trash every liner in your engine.
mordzy
Active Member
spun the pump with a battery drill for a god 10 mins with nothing. spins freely.
ill check the pickup and filter but after that will have to go for the pump. incidentally there is a an oil cooler radiator fitted which i don't believe is standard.
Could this be causing a problem.
ill check the pickup and filter but after that will have to go for the pump. incidentally there is a an oil cooler radiator fitted which i don't believe is standard.
Could this be causing a problem.
discomark10
Well-Known Member
yea, if it has an air lock it would be causing it to not prime
smudge67999
Active Member
tbh honest m8 carbs are more trouble than anything .but once set up right they are good but its setting them up.ive had several ones with carbs and been a bloody nite mare. i changed to injection and never had a problem since.#
dought it..its after pump..all mine (3) have mocals...and stats...no problems..its just a crap rover causing you pooh..YES I KNOW ,not much help..
look if pump causing so much ****e ...just drop sump and check it out...only 30mins to do..buy a new gasket (and oil)first..
you have replaced filter??(just in case)
captainbeaky
Active Member
Little trick I learned on my 101 landie.
If left for a long spell, the oil pump would lose its prime ( never did find out why)
I unscrewed the oil pressure switch, and cranked her over on the starter ( ignition disconnected) until oil came out of the oil pressure switch hole.
Screwed in the oil pressure switch, connected the ignition, and started her up - and had oil pressure.
By removing the oil pressure switch, the oil pump has a much easier time of priming, and self primes after a second or so of cranking.
Saves mucking about with distributor.
I know that "easy start" is a bit of a hodge, but it has it's uses to start a recalcitrant motor.
And - it can help tell you if it's ignition or fuel.
If the engine keeps running if you keep spraying in easy start, then it's the fuel.
If the engine doesn't keep running - then it's probably ignition.
Worth checking the ignition. I had a dud ignition amp that would do the same - run for 5 secs then pack up..
If left for a long spell, the oil pump would lose its prime ( never did find out why)
I unscrewed the oil pressure switch, and cranked her over on the starter ( ignition disconnected) until oil came out of the oil pressure switch hole.
Screwed in the oil pressure switch, connected the ignition, and started her up - and had oil pressure.
By removing the oil pressure switch, the oil pump has a much easier time of priming, and self primes after a second or so of cranking.
Saves mucking about with distributor.
I know that "easy start" is a bit of a hodge, but it has it's uses to start a recalcitrant motor.
And - it can help tell you if it's ignition or fuel.
If the engine keeps running if you keep spraying in easy start, then it's the fuel.
If the engine doesn't keep running - then it's probably ignition.
Worth checking the ignition. I had a dud ignition amp that would do the same - run for 5 secs then pack up..
