Scalleys Dad
Active Member
Ah but add any of rotating, intermittent, staccato, rhythmic, deafening, occasional, speed induced or gear change related and you have yourself a ticket. Personally I am glad to have moved away from shuddering but rotating grind still vexes me.
Are you back on the road yet?
Are you back on the road yet?
Have you looked at the rear diff fluid, maybe a dry(ish) tail end ?
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
I’m back on the road. In fact I’m down to less that twenty pending jobs. Not including the noise issues of course but I’m hoping they become less urgent once the passenger side floor is back in.
Scalleys Dad
Active Member
Dippypud. Your comment made me curse loudly and made me retrace my steps for the last few weeks. I ticked off the oil changes and grease nipples …………. and remembered why I was wearing two quite hefty plasters way back when. The top nut/oil filler despite being cleaned, oiled and cleaned again would not budge. Leverage is not great when you are lying under it and although I had a good grip with the spanner and a bar that fitted perfectly over the other end the whole thing slipped off and I lost the skin on two knuckles and gave up on it. I am usually quite tenacious but a humbling defeat is probably why I forgot all about it. I tried again this morning but to tick this one off she is going to have go on a ramp with some meatier tools applied.
Thanks for tip.
Thanks for tip.
Good luck and I hope you resolve your issue ...
Could pull the half-shaft to see if there is anything amiss first ?
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
Some heat might help, going back to earlier posts you are sure that it’s not stuck in 4wd?
Scalleys Dad
Active Member
I am so sure 4WD disengaged last time out I am going to check again as the science indicates you may have a point. I’ll get out into the quieter roads in the morning, twist the hubs round and purposefully engage for a couple of miles and then methodically disengage. There is a classic car gathering up the road in the morning so it would seem an ideal place to tinker.
By heat do you mean via a flameless method like rubbing a soldering iron against the base of the filler nut?
By heat do you mean via a flameless method like rubbing a soldering iron against the base of the filler nut?
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
a decent blowtorch and play it around the outside casing of filler nut rather than nut itself to theoretically expand the metal. Mine has a 1/2 square hole for plug and my socket ratchet fits nicely but also have a 600mm breaker bar , but they really don’t need to be that tight , could also squirt some release oil a few hours prior and or tap it with hammer lots not too hard to break any rust seal
Not the hubs, we're wondering about the yellow knob. Is it definitely up? And if it seems to be, what happens when you drive it with the knob down (with red forwards)? Don't do it on tarmac for any great distance, but try some gentle corners.
Scalleys Dad
Active Member
Scalleys Dad
Active Member
4WD engage and disengage worked well today so I have her booked onto a ramp on Wednesday so ‘we’ can get to grips with all the moving bits and tight nuts and bolts whilst standing up and not crawling around. I’ll be glad to get this pain in the backside mystery solved.
Scalleys Dad
Active Member
What a joy to be able to put her above head height. The bad news though is that it is probably the rear diff bearing pinion that is the fault as there is some play, albeit very little, at the point of attachment with the propshaft. Being able to grip that with both hands reveals a small amount of play in the UJ. So that’s two ‘small plays’ too many. The oil was changed, in part to check for any bits, and to my dismay there was not much of it. She makes a right old racket now but we did have a three mile straight she purred along so getting her to a workshop might be okay. Five workshops later there is a guy in Launceston, about forty miles away, who popped his head over the parapet. The others have too much work on, not enough staff or in one case just did not want the hassle. Dilemma for the weekend. Half-shafts out and dismantling is possible but the rest roadside is probably asking for trouble so for the third year running she will be stretching my meagre allowance for sweets and pop.
On the plus side the body work is fine but the springs are starting to explode out so there’s the next replacement project already lined up.
Jeeeeeez.
On the plus side the body work is fine but the springs are starting to explode out so there’s the next replacement project already lined up.
Jeeeeeez.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
You could have a go at changing the uj , might be looser than front need a big vice , that might solve the problem , is the diff play rotational or up and down, springs can be refurbed rather than renewed if you have some tools
Scalleys Dad
Active Member
There is up and down play from the diff and the UJ is, I think, the same. It is minimal in both but I suppose combined and in the same spot it makes it relevant. I couldn’t get over how much noisier and clunkier she was driving her back, amongst the quieter periods, so it’s gone straight to the top of my list………… after the girls moving out, the eldest moving to London, the carnage left behind and ‘life admin’ as my daughter calls it.
On balance fitting a new propshaft is possible, I have some credit on account, messing with a UJ is not, I simply don’t have the fingers for it, but I have replaced the half shafts in the past so that bit does not phase me but without a pit or decent ramps on a level surface tackling some the diff bolts that look like they have been in situ since 1972 and then what comes after is putting me off. Three workshops did not want to know so I don’t think I am in the zone of having a go, messing it up and then calling in the cavalry. Two workshops down in Cornwall are real possibilities and both are doable avoiding the A30. Neither though can offer a precise quote and I get that…….. who knows what’s lurking behind the last retaining bolt
On balance fitting a new propshaft is possible, I have some credit on account, messing with a UJ is not, I simply don’t have the fingers for it, but I have replaced the half shafts in the past so that bit does not phase me but without a pit or decent ramps on a level surface tackling some the diff bolts that look like they have been in situ since 1972 and then what comes after is putting me off. Three workshops did not want to know so I don’t think I am in the zone of having a go, messing it up and then calling in the cavalry. Two workshops down in Cornwall are real possibilities and both are doable avoiding the A30. Neither though can offer a precise quote and I get that…….. who knows what’s lurking behind the last retaining bolt
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
Hopefully with prop removed it might be missing split pin and loose nut so might just need nipping up
Scalleys Dad
Active Member
Morning, well yes that is the hope. As long as ‘we’ can get all the nuts undone the current plan is to take the prop shaft off, see if there is anything simply to remedy and then toss a coin. I suspect many a great plan has started thus
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
Scalleys Dad
Active Member
Going through the box file of paperwork that I inherited or have amassed in the eighteen plus years I have owned her it would seem the rear axle diff bearing housing bolts and the rear propshaft bolts have not been removed in at least twenty years …………….. which is possibly why two on the latter are slightly rounded after my attempts to loosen them. Damn and blast. A well respected local workshop with a landie owner at the helm has her booked in for a full exploratory at the earliest opportunity………. July 6th!!!!! Seems to be the norm these days.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
That’s a shame, would a mini grinder get in to cut them off, I bought a dremel 3000? recently, the small cutting discs are excellent and can do a lot of work before wearing out ,they would certainly get the nuts cut off.
My other fav tool is a dewalt impact driver for tight nuts.
My other fav tool is a dewalt impact driver for tight nuts.
