GRATCH said:
ok here we go......


crank shaft timing- line up keyway with arrow on timing case at 12 o'clockish (Both)
cam shaft timing- line up dot on pulley with arrow(defender) or long bit of casting(disco) on timing case at 8 o'clockish
I.P. timing- lock through hole in pulley at 11 o'clockish (Both)
only other difference is the idler pulley on disco:D:D:D
Click to expand...

Ta,,,,,, was stuck because there is no arrow on the disco casing for the cam timing but now I know it's easy:rolleyes:
Disco is better set up as there is very little of the belt driving the cam on the defender dont you think?
I'll get on it tomorrow after lunch if it's nice, if not nice then I'll get wet:D
 
Now then, I know I'm a moanin old sod and find it hard to get to grips with simples instructions but I've encountered a problem....or maybe not.
Got ten minutes spare today so put a tipex mark on me crank pulley so as I'd know where the woodruf key was, shoved it back on the crank, fitted and tightened the big bolt and the commenced to turn the engine to the desired spot ready for changing the cambelt.
Got the cam tipex mark where it should be and the tipex mark at twelve o'clock on the crank and my selected 9mm drill bit slid effortlessly into the hole in the pump pully and engaged with the hole in the back locking it solid. So far so good.....
Then I spots an engraving on the crank damper with a line across and the marks read TDC. Trouble is the line on the damper was at about seven minutes to the hour and not at twelve o'clock so it dint line up with the lickle arrer:eek:
Am I missing somethin ere ? Thing is the motor was running ok so if nothing moves very much then it'll be ok again, seven minutes is too much to be adrift an I spose it wouldn't run if it was wrong.
I'm afraid I didn't go underneath and pin the flywheel so I dont know if I'm on the right track.
Had to leave it there and go for a new water pump so sod it till Monday:rolleyes:
 
forget the damper, do the marks on the internal pulleys line up with their respective marks?
 
Tig9619 said:
forget the damper, do the marks on the internal pulleys line up with their respective marks?
Click to expand...
If the woodruf key on the crank is the marker for that then yes, all lined up and ready to go, trouble is, I put the new cambelt somewhere safe and now I cant FIND it....bugger:D
 
Well had to buy another flippin cambelt as I have mislaid the one I bought the other week.
Cleaned the cambelt housing out and left it to dry off. Not a lot of muck in there and no oil so I'm leaving the seals as they are, the adjuster wheel and the other one are A1 so they are staying as well. Bought a new water pump with a cast impeller to repalce the plastic one and now all ready to have a go at getting the two broken bolts out of the casing on Monday.

Not done much today as had to take my grandson and his mates paintballing for his birthday, great day out I must say and my dorris really looked the part in her combats when she stood in for someone who didn't turn up. Should have seen her crawling on her elbows with an ammo belt on and paintgun at the ready, if only she was forty years younger:D
Love her to bits whatever:)
paintball.jpg
 
Right, bet you're wonderin if I ever got it done, well I havn't yet but I'm gettin there.
Today I retapped the two stud holes where I had to drill the bolt ends out of, then I fitted the cambelt as per instructions and found the proceedure to be very easy. With timing marks in line and the fuel pump pegged up and the adjustable wheel on it loosened I fitted the belt starting at the crank, then stretching it to the cam gear, then over the fuel pump gear wheel. Next I fitted the adjuster which I had taken off completely earlier. I inserted my half inch drive extension with a torque wrench attatched into the square hole below the adjuster, torqued it up to 12lbs ft and tightened the adjuster retaining bolt and the three bolts on the fuel pump gear to lock it up.
After removing the peg from the fuel pump I rotated the engine two full turns and repegged it. The torque proceedure was repeated and the fuel pump gear wheel bolts done up and peg removed.
I then refitted the ally cover with a new gasket and the alternator.
Next to go on was the new water pump and new gasket, all bolts were copperslipped so they wont corrode in there again and lightly done up.
I didn't fully tighten the water pump bolts as I still have to find two new bolts for the retapped holes to finish off.
Any way, that was it for today as I was knackered and had to sit down for a bit:)
Going to finish off tomorrow and refit rad and intercooler, change oil and filter and see if it'll start.:D
 
Fixed the snapped off bolts today, screwed some threaded rod into the re tapped holes and bolted it up.
Not exactly how Land Rover planned it but secure enough for me. I did cut the excess length off by the way:)
1-1.jpg


Next I put the power stering pump back and then fitted the bottom pulley and coated the bolt with a little thread lock just in case.
I put a nice long bar on by breaker bar to tighten it up. I put the gearbox in 5th with the handbrake on and tightened it (easy with the bar)
3-1.jpg


4.jpg


Put the mileage on the casing and the date for future reference and then fitted the fan belt and alternator belt...That's it for today, should be running tomorrow.

5.jpg
 
Tig9619 said:
glad you got it sorted, lets hope its all good!
Click to expand...

Had a good day today, welded intercooler up, it was split along the weld at the bottom and had two small holes in it, ok now and back on the disco.
Filled up the water/anti freeze and prepared to start her up.
Fingers crossed I gave her some heat and turned the key, she fired imediateley and then died. Tried again and nowt so I primed the lift pump and gave it another go. This time she went straight away and ticked over like a good un:)
The diesel must be running back to the tank for some reason so another job to do when I find out what the problem is.
Got some plastic plugs for me headlamps today as well, 50p each from a scrappie so I'll solder them on tomorrow and refit the grill.
I've put a new temp sender in as well and the temp gauge actually moved from cold after ticking over for a few minutes so I'm hoping that all will be well in that department.
Just need to change the oil and filter tomorrow as it's been in a couple of months now and I want to get the engine clean inside so I'll change the oil every couple of months till it stays reasonabley clean.

That's me nearly done then, next........V8 out of the 110 and 300tdi in...:D
 
fanatic said:
war n peace -but at least it's done
Click to expand...

Arh know, arh know, but if I were able bodied twould have been done in a day I reckon.
Takes me about a week to do a good days work so I reckon a month to change the 110 engine and boxes plus do the brakes etc.:D
 
GRATCH said:
looks uncannily like me too:eek::D
Click to expand...

Knew I'd seen it before somewhere.:D

My underbonnet squeek squeek squeek when ticking over has gone now so I must have done something right. Does one have to torque the steering pump belt adjustment by the way. I say this because it has provision for the half inch drive extension bar on the bracket.
 
landowner said:
Knew I'd seen it before somewhere.:D

My underbonnet squeek squeek squeek when ticking over has gone now so I must have done something right. Does one have to torque the steering pump belt adjustment by the way. I say this because it has provision for the half inch drive extension bar on the bracket.
Click to expand...

i've never torqued it, just used it as a lever point and got the belt 'common sense' tight
 
GRATCH said:
i've never torqued it, just used it as a lever point and got the belt 'common sense' tight
Click to expand...
Yea, that's what I did. It makes fine adjustment a doddle and you can get it spot on first time, that's prob why my squeek went:D
 
Ran out of gas in the 110 today and I'm on petrol so decided to get the Disco done today whatever as although the V8 goes very nicely on petrol, it only does about 9mpg knocking about.

So, soldered me headlamp connections on, all nice and bright now, and refitted the grill. Then primed the lift pump and she started first turn.
Thought I would test the new temp sender unit and make sure the motor didn't leak anything so took her for a test drive, Result, after about one mile the temp gauge had moved off cold and the heater was warm. After two miles the temp gauge was normal and the heater was nice and hot so I stopped to check under the bonnet. Aimed me lazer temp thingy at the head and it was 65 to 85 degrees depending on where I pointed it, the thermostat housing was at 75.
Set off again and as I drove along the temp gauge contiued to rise until it was near hot. All this in about 3 to 4 miles so I stopped to check again and all was well. The header tank was cold and the rad just warm and the thermostat housing was at 65 degrees after ticking over for about a minute but the gauge stayed on three quarters.
gracie057.jpg

Now I know it isn't overheating and it's better than it was at getting warm so I have sorted the cooling system and heater out. Thing is what is wrong with the temp gauge, is it the new sender because the old one hardly moved off cold, or is it the gauge?
gracie061.jpg
 
landowner said:
Ran out of gas in the 110 today and I'm on petrol so decided to get the Disco done today whatever as although the V8 goes very nicely on petrol, it only does about 9mpg knocking about.

So, soldered me headlamp connections on, all nice and bright now, and refitted the grill. Then primed the lift pump and she started first turn.
Thought I would test the new temp sender unit and make sure the motor didn't leak anything so took her for a test drive, Result, after about one mile the temp gauge had moved off cold and the heater was warm. After two miles the temp gauge was normal and the heater was nice and hot so I stopped to check under the bonnet. Aimed me lazer temp thingy at the head and it was 65 to 85 degrees depending on where I pointed it, the thermostat housing was at 75.
Set off again and as I drove along the temp gauge contiued to rise until it was near hot. All this in about 3 to 4 miles so I stopped to check again and all was well. The header tank was cold and the rad just warm and the thermostat housing was at 65 degrees after ticking over for about a minute but the gauge stayed on three quarters.
gracie057.jpg

Now I know it isn't overheating and it's better than it was at getting warm so I have sorted the cooling system and heater out. Thing is what is wrong with the temp gauge, is it the new sender because the old one hardly moved off cold, or is it the gauge?
gracie061.jpg
Click to expand...
It was the sender, I needed a green one,---sorted

Watch this if you are doing a 200tdi cambelt

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSt5RnlYGck"]YouTube- Land Rover tools 200tdi & 300tdi timing belt change at break neck speed[/nomedia]
 
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