landowner

Pensioner Pete
Full Member
Started to change the cambelt on the 200tdi Disco today. Yesterday I stripped the rad and intercooler out so as to make access easy and flush everything out whilst I was at it. Anyway started again this afternoon as it was nice in the sun.
Viscous fan came off ridiculously easy, fitted the spanner on and just a thump with me hand and it was loose, removed spanner and spun the fan off it's threads. Decided to take the V8 fan off as well seein as it was that easy and the 110 was standing alongside. The V8 took a litte more effort and I had to lock the pully in place with a tyre bar and give it a sharp tap with my big persueder (hammer)
Back to the Disco and next were all the bolts that hold the cam belt cover on. They must have been tightened by a gorilla as none of them would budge with the small socket set. Right yer buggers, I smacked them all several times on the head with the aforementioned persueder and then put the socket on and using a solid bar with a piece of tube on the end I put some weight on and smacked the end of the socket with the hammer.
Well, all came loose except three and I had to fire up the blowlamp and apply some heat. The first one came loose after a lot of heat and smacking but the second snapped off just where the threads end on the bolt. The third was rounded off after tryin a bit so I hammered an old small socket on and tried again....no good, not goin to move so I ground the head off with the angle grinder intending to maybe weld a big nut on the end later and try an shift it that way.
By this time I'm ****ed and had to go and lie down, took an hour and a half to recover so I packed up and went home.
So, cover still on at the moment, managed to prise the water pump off but think there are more bolts somewhere holding the cover on, maybe around the alternator , power steering pump area as it seems to be solid there. I'll have a look tomorrow after reading up on here which is what I should have done this morning before going to do the job.:doh:
On track though, as long as I get the cover off tomorrow then I can fit the belt and then start puttin it back on Thurs, that's the plan anyway.:)
 
there are bolts that hold the alt/power steering bracket, going in from the right hand side into the timing case cover. some of the timing case bolts go right through into the head/block area so use plenty of proper penetrating fluid and allow to soak.
 
there are bolts that hold the alt/power steering bracket, going in from the right hand side into the timing case cover. some of the timing case bolts go right through into the head/block area so use plenty of proper penetrating fluid and allow to soak.

Thanks for that I'll get em off tomorrow. I used penetrating oil put it's a long way to the threads from the head of the bolts on some and they are tight so not much fluid going to get along the length of the bolts. The thread end of the long bolts are rusty so I imagine that they were put back in wet after the last cambelt change and without any copperslip or owt. Who would do such a thing, not main stealers dya think??
Not a problem any way, I like a challenge..main problem is my health at the moment, the cold weather affects my breathing and I cant stay at it for long so it's a little at a time, maybe take me all week for a mornings work but as long as we get there I enjoy the work:D
 
are the siezed bolts near the water pump? as the coolant does seep past the gaskets and rust these ones. i'm aware your health's not too good:( but taking your time sometimes is the best way to work,and at least you're doing it yourself and enjoying it :D
 
are the siezed bolts near the water pump? as the coolant does seep past the gaskets and rust these ones.
Yes, three of them to the right (standing in front) of the pump were tightest. The pump has a plastic impeller as well, not what we are used to round here:rolleyes: Might invest in a new one while it's off cause it's bound to leak if I put it back.
I just hate jobs where you just unbolt something and bolt a new one back on leaving the lable on it just like a real fitter. Takes all the fun out of the job :)
 
Well, here we go...
Welded a big nut to the broken bolt but it just snapped off further down:doh:
studdbroken.jpg


So I ground the end of the broken bolt flat and centre punched it ready for drilling out. Then I picked a drill bit slightly smaller than the bolt and began drilling very slowly and with plenty of lubricant applied to the end of the drill to keep it cool.

drillit.jpg


Not much left of the bastard now, heres the middle of the bolt as swarfe
swarfe.jpg


At last !!! with the centre of the bolt drilled out I managed to release its grip on the ally cover by gently tapping and a bit of gentle prising with a claw hammer throgh the inspection hole
itsoff.jpg


Here's the offending bolt with the centre drilled out, just remains to drill the rest out and hopefully the 'shell' will twist out and I wont have to drill and tap the block. Looks like this happened last time the cambelt was changed as there is a threaded stud in the top where a bolt used to be:rolleyes:
stud.jpg
 
i got a feeling that sud is meant to be there as i remember seeing this on quite a few 200 engines including 3 of mine!
 
nice one landowner, on a roll now:D
I'd agree the stud is normal, helps hang the cover on re-assembly
I use plenty of coppaslip on the bolts and blue hylomar both sides of the gasket where the water pump seats
 
i got a feeling that sud is meant to be there as i remember seeing this on quite a few 200 engines including 3 of mine!
The one I drilled out was the one that I had to grind the head off as the 10mm was just rounding off. There is a small locating dowel next to it. So that's two that need fettling as the one above it snapped off at the threaded end.
Should have called this thread, ' If it can go wrong then it will go wrong' not so straight forward this cam belt changing on old engines.:rolleyes:
 
Not much done today as I had to see to the Defender brakes. Did put the bolt back in the crank and turn the engine over with a ratchet. Found the dot on the cam wheel and marked it with tipex but cant find a pointer to line it up with, nowt, nothing, **** all, not even a dot.
Any tips on what to line the cam wheel up with??
I suppose if I get the crank lined up and the fuel pump in the right place then the cam wheel will be in the right place also, but maybe not, an I aint goin to guess so I'm off round the forums now to try and find out where it is on a DISCO and not a Defender.
Wish me luck.:)
 
unless someones fitted something different its definately there. its not a dot its just a bit of the timing case casting sticking out in a point. think its about the 8 or 9 oclock position.
 
yeah but the bits inside the timing case are as good as the same, timing marks, method of replacement etc
 
yeah but the bits inside the timing case are as good as the same, timing marks, method of replacement etc

Oh no they are not:)


THAT'S the one, INFORMATION at last, the pointer is a piece of casting which supports a stud hole, no wonder I can't find it:doh:

didn't we have this out yesterday evening ?

Yes but unresolved, sorted now, I'll get the old belt off tomorrow with confidence now I know what I'm doin
Watch this flippin space:D
 
ok here we go......


crank shaft timing- line up keyway with arrow on timing case at 12 o'clockish (Both)
cam shaft timing- line up dot on pulley with arrow(defender) or long bit of casting(disco) on timing case at 8 o'clockish
I.P. timing- lock through hole in pulley at 11 o'clockish (Both)
only other difference is the idler pulley on disco:D:D:D
 

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