A standard Defender heater is fine when working correctly but before we even think about that we have to establish that the engine is reaching the correct running temperature.
When functioning correctly the coolant temperature should be in the region of 86-92Degrees C and with the design of the cooling system this same coolant is flowing through the heater matrix. If the engine isn't getting to temp then sort that out before trying to fit some supplementary heating system (in sub-zero temperatures a standard engine should reach normal operating temperature within a few miles with the viscous fan fitted and rad uncovered, it is how they were designed).
If you are happy that the cooling system is working ok and the thermostat is operating correctly then you have water at 86-92Degrees C flowing through the heater matrix and the trick is to get this into the cab (well it's not really a trick but it seems to fox many people).
The heater is a simple metal box with a matrix and a flap which directs incoming air either through or around the matrix. If the matrix is clear (is it?) and the flap correctly adjusted (is it?) and the seals are good (are they?) then you should have a good supply of heated air available to channel into the cab.
The last remaining obstacle is the heater-box outlet flap. This is connected to the speed control lever and is closed with the lever fully up but open as soon as the lever is lowered, mis-adjustment of this means that regardless of the lovely heat available in the heater-box it can't get through into the lower dash section to be distributed through the vents.
When functioning correctly the coolant temperature should be in the region of 86-92Degrees C and with the design of the cooling system this same coolant is flowing through the heater matrix. If the engine isn't getting to temp then sort that out before trying to fit some supplementary heating system (in sub-zero temperatures a standard engine should reach normal operating temperature within a few miles with the viscous fan fitted and rad uncovered, it is how they were designed).
If you are happy that the cooling system is working ok and the thermostat is operating correctly then you have water at 86-92Degrees C flowing through the heater matrix and the trick is to get this into the cab (well it's not really a trick but it seems to fox many people).
The heater is a simple metal box with a matrix and a flap which directs incoming air either through or around the matrix. If the matrix is clear (is it?) and the flap correctly adjusted (is it?) and the seals are good (are they?) then you should have a good supply of heated air available to channel into the cab.
The last remaining obstacle is the heater-box outlet flap. This is connected to the speed control lever and is closed with the lever fully up but open as soon as the lever is lowered, mis-adjustment of this means that regardless of the lovely heat available in the heater-box it can't get through into the lower dash section to be distributed through the vents.
greyhair
Well-Known Member
My regular route to work is 5 miles, in the winter as I arrive at work the D3 is just at operating temp same as the 200 90 and the 200 series 2, with the 200 if you work them light they simply cant get up to 90degc and if you work them hard and get them to 90 degc the slightest bit of gentle work and the temp goes down again, lowest in the winter was 75 degc ish and that was after 6 miles or so and the heater was just pathetic.
That looks like the way forward
mikescuba
Well-Known Member
Well , I'm glad to know I'm not the only one with a pathetic heater in my 200 tdi. I have changed everything, heater matrix, stat's. etc etc. IN the winter mine takes almost 15 Kilometers to reach operating temp. But it can go down to -15C/-18C.
mikescuba
Well-Known Member
Well, that wouldn't be much good for mine. When its up to temperature the heater is still pathetic. I do have a 300 watt electric ceramic heater which doers help a bit.
From what I can see over the years that's what you can expect from a 200 tdi.
