finallysnapped said:
Do the replacement belts and tensioners come under servicing, ie should they be on the service history of an 8 year old D3 or this advice from experience?
Click to expand...

hi

any decent garage should advise u they need replacing , doesn't come under a normal service , they should be replaced every 7 x years or 105,000 miles which ever comes first

allow around £1k to get the work done

also get the oil pump cover checked to ensure it's the later stronger version, as they can and do snap causing irretrievable damage to the engine

i also replaced my water pump at the same time

don't let any garage tell u that the body has to come off to replace the rear belt and tensioner

if they have been done it should always be written inside of the service book , but must ensure the oil pump cover has been checked

hope that helps
 
gstuart said:
hi

any decent garage should advise u they need replacing , doesn't come under a normal service , they should be replaced every 7 x years or 105,000 miles which ever comes first

allow around £1k to get the work done

also get the oil pump cover checked to ensure it's the later stronger version, as they can and do snap causing irretrievable damage to the engine

i also replaced my water pump at the same time

don't let any garage tell u that the body has to come off to replace the rear belt and tensioner

hope that helps
Click to expand...

I’m looking at one tomorrow, how do I identify the later oil pump cover?

It’s a 2009 59 plate, should this have been fitted standard as it was the end of the run on this model?

Cheers.
 
Last edited:
finallysnapped said:
I’m looking at one tomorrow, how do I identify the later oil cover?

It’s a 2009 59 plate, should this have been fitted standard as it was the end of the run on this model?

Cheers.
Click to expand...

hi

unfortunately u can't tell unless u remove the timing belt covers, it should be the later one but unless u actually look u can't be 100% , i.e. someone may have fitted an old one they had in stock

hopefully the buyers guide i've done will help u what to look for

the belts should have been done, if not insist they replace them or factor in £1k on the price , however if they haven't been done and ur unlucky that they snap as u drive out it would be better for them to get all the work done, that way ur covered if things go wrong

if they haven't been done, get the water pump done at the same time
 
gstuart said:
hi

unfortunately u can't tell unless u remove the timing belt covers, it should be the later one but unless u actually look u can't be 100% , i.e. someone may have fitted an old one they had in stock

hopefully the buyers guide i've done will help u what to look for

the belts should have been done, if not insist they replace them or factor in £1k on the price , however if they haven't been done and ur unlucky that they snap as u drive out it would be better for them to get all the work done, that way ur covered if things go wrong

if they haven't been done, get the water pump done at the same time
Click to expand...

Thank you, I feel a lot more confident going to look at this with a clear mind now. Better to buy with the head than the heart.
 
finallysnapped said:
Thank you, I feel a lot more confident going to look at this with a clear mind now. Better to buy with the head than the heart.
Click to expand...

ur very welcome , the guide i put together in the hope of helping others, so hope it's of some use to u

always good to check the mot history via their web site

there's a few of us now that own D3 s so any questions plse ask away

is it a garage or private , would u mind sharing a link plse , via pm if u don't wish to put it onto an open forum
 
Your guide has been very useful even to the point where it’s put me off buying one! I didn’t realise how much they are to run/repair, I think once I’ve sold my D2 I’m going to buy a pickup instead!
Thanks Stuart
 
danam1 said:
Your guide has been very useful even to the point where it’s put me off buying one! I didn’t realise how much they are to run/repair, I think once I’ve sold my D2 I’m going to buy a pickup instead!
Thanks Stuart
Click to expand...

hi

Good to hear the guide was useful to u , sorry to hear it’s put u off
 
gstuart said:
hi

Good to hear the guide was useful to u , sorry to hear it’s put u off
Click to expand...
New to this discussion but found the contents very useful. I was intent on swopping my Disco 1 for a Disco 3. I took the time to look at the Disco 3 / 4 owners forum. Having rebuilt/renewed the boot floor, sills, wheel arches and inner offside wing and after comparing the comments on the owners forum I think my best way forward is forget the Disco3 unless I can find a friendly (very) bank manager. perhaps there are better vibes in this forum than the owners forum.
 
welshspringer said:
New to this discussion but found the contents very useful. I was intent on swopping my Disco 1 for a Disco 3. I took the time to look at the Disco 3 / 4 owners forum. Having rebuilt/renewed the boot floor, sills, wheel arches and inner offside wing and after comparing the comments on the owners forum I think my best way forward is forget the Disco3 unless I can find a friendly (very) bank manager. perhaps there are better vibes in this forum than the owners forum.
Click to expand...

hi and glad it was useful to u

there are more D3 owners now coming onto this forum , feel free to ask and we will endeavour to help

for an average half decent base model D3 ur looking around 6-7k , all depends of course if it’s had the belts / oil pump cover done
 
I own a Range Rover P38 at bthe moment which I keep in the UK but I do live in Australia and need to replace the vehicle I use here (ford F 250) and i am looking at a 2008 D# 2.7 SE.
I have a nanacom set up for the P38 and defender and wondered if anyone has had any experience using it with a D3 unlock codes.
Also is there an equivilant workshop manual to RAVE for the D3?
Does anyone know what engine number or VIN no the later casing was fitted?
 
Last edited:
ovalandrover said:
I own a Range Rover P38 at bthe moment which I keep in the UK but I do live in Australia and need to replace the vehicle I use here (ford F 250) and i am looking at a 2008 D# 2.7 SE.
I have a nanacom set up for the P38 and defender and wondered if anyone has had any experience using it with a D3 unlock codes.
Also is there an equivilant workshop manual to RAVE for the D3?
Does anyone know what engine number or VIN no the later casing was fitted?
Click to expand...
Can't help with the other questions but a Disco 3 workshop manual can be found here
HTH
 
Morning!
Agree with the others - very useful post, thanks for spending the time to write.

I am thinking of selling my 2013 defender 110 which I adore but its just worth too much and not getting the use. However i do like have a utilitarian vehicle in my life for camping, moving stuff, logs etc, so thought of getting a D3 with a roof rack and some good looking offroad tyres.

I am pretty ok with DIY mechanics (built another 110 in the past) so not too scared or the D3s potential expense / required maintenance.

Budget wise I am thinking between £6-8k + £2k for mods (maybe another £2k for G4 spray job!) and it seems there are plenty around in this area, though some much less - is there a particular year that I should avoid? ie is a higher miles 2009 better than lower mileage 06? I read in LR monthly that the early D3s suffer electrical probs.

Few other specific qs:
1. Auto gearbox - is this strong and does it require any oil changes? (I'd prefer auto and assume given the 2.7t weight manuals get through clutches)
2. Suspension - Do they all have air/ adjustable suspension if not which spec does not get air sus? If I did go for adjustable air suspension what is the common faults on them - pump or air bags and what is the cost of each?
3. Spec - Should I go for low spec to avoid issues or is the additional spec not really that troublesome but worth the lux? (is the order S, GS, SE, HSE?)
4. I think discos with offroad tyres look great - any issues here / best tyre to get?

Thanks in advance!
Duncan
PS. the purpose of this post is to find out about the D3 and not promote my defender, but if anyone is interested - its a black 110 5dr utility 2.2 tdci, expedition roof rack, 2.4m Hannibal awning, mantec snorkel and wheel carrier, spots. boosts with BFGs. side steps, chequer. 60k miles. Looks and drives perfect!
 
Have had my D3 for 12months now and I rate it the best car I have had and at 63 have had some.
Auto is a nice smooth ride and suits the big bus down to a T.
I had a mega flush on mine new sump and filter, the atf that came out was mlnging
So its worth doing if just for peace of mind.
Try a few plenty out there for sale buyers market, mines an SE plenty of toys to play with HSE even more.
Dave
 
Another sincere thank you for your very comprehensive post.
Was considering a Rangey TDV8. But I don't need the space and
something a bit lower profile would suit I think.
Can’t stretch to a D4 atm. Too many projects on the go.
Drove a D4 last year and loved it.
Didn't realise until I read this, that the D3 was a good choice also.
 
@gstuart - I'm very new to Land Rover and therefore Discovery 3 - but it definitely looked like the right vehicle for me. Knowing so little and with the risk of buying a moneypit this guide has proved incredibly useful and i used it to hunt down a nice example and then look over it and check everything was in order and i was happy to say that it was (bar the sunroof switch being temperamental so that's staying in the closed position to ensure no leaks). I'm sure i could have done better but i now have a nice 2008 model with 158K miles, FSH, belts changed, oil pump cover replaced and with a gear box mega flush all in the last 5 months. Belts may have been changed before but no further receipts to back it up. You've also made me sound like i know what i'm taling about
 
@gstuart - oops - seem to know more about Disco 3's now than posting here - hadn't finished!
One thing i need is a tow bar for towing a 1700KG load - would you be able to recommend whether used is OK, maybe where to get one and whether removable is a reasonable choice. Thanks again for the guide - i would not have bought this cracker without it! (he said having only owned it 24 hours.......)
 
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