neilly · Mar 12, 2016

farmershort said:
Ok. Good to know. Looks like I'm back to bumperettee or nothing at the back then. Lots of comments saying they don't offer real corner protection.... Is that because they're limited in surface area, or because they're just structurally weak?

What do you want the rear bumperettes to do, and when you say corner protection, do you mean wrap around the corner?

If you have something too strong then any impact will transfer to the chassis crossmember.

I used one of the treadplates that go either side of the tow bar, cut into two and bolted to the chassis at the corner, if I reverse into

anything it is malleable enough to deform and hopefully wold make me realise I had dropped a clanger before I managed to damage anything too serious.

Cheers

blue beasty · Mar 12, 2016

It's all swings and roundabouts really. Any wraparound is going to be limited by having its mountings perpendicular to a side swipe.

In your brushing a gate post scenario they should be OK but then they are more likely to snag and cause damage to the cross member.

farmershort · Mar 12, 2016

Ok, sorry I think I've cause a bit of confusion with having all 3 items in the same thread. These are my imagines scenarios and where the items fits in:

Sliding sideways into gateposts is the steps/ rock sliders questions.

Reversing into a nobbly tree, or other irregular shaped farming object: bumperettee.

The Sankey is not convertes to ball, no. I had planned on the Dixon bates with 2 plates, as you say.

The corner protection I'm thinking about is not really about high impact stuff, just about protecting the rear corner from reversing idiocy, which we're all prone to on occasion... Though most car folk say "for when the Mrs is driving"

neilly · Mar 12, 2016

This is what I did, cheap and cheerful .

Cheers

flat · Mar 12, 2016

neilly said:
This is what I did, cheap and cheerful .

Cheers

That's quite good, very similar to the military bumperette which will work well for your reversing needs.

NAS bumper, and a Dixon Bate and a NATO hitch won't work IMO.

Just bolt the NATO hitch direct to the cross member of the sankey is all you tow? If not the adjustable Dixon is your best bet.

For the sides and gate posts etc look into rock sliders to replace the sills and tree sliders for along the body line, then all covered IMO and what I would do as the most OE looking fittings or at least if not OE then not out of keeping

farmershort · Mar 15, 2016

neilly said:
This is what I did, cheap and cheerful .

Cheers

Thanks for this - I really like the look of those. not too much metal, so not too imposing. I think I'll go with that plan!

As for the bumper, I found that frog island 4x4 sell a terrafirmer HD tapered front bumper with no holes and no crap hanging off it. It's £154 on the bay, so at least £100 cheaper than the devon 4x4 one. I'd like to team that up with one of those masai low-profile light bars.

Steps - I've not found anything that looks like it'll double as a step and a rock slider, so I guess I'll be sticking with the OEM folding steps.

neilly · Mar 15, 2016

farmershort said:
Thanks for this - I really like the look of those. not too much metal, so not too imposing. I think I'll go with that plan!

As for the bumper, I found that frog island 4x4 sell a terrafirmer HD tapered front bumper with no holes and no crap hanging off it. It's £154 on the bay, so at least £100 cheaper than the devon 4x4 one. I'd like to team that up with one of those masai low-profile light bars.

Steps - I've not found anything that looks like it'll double as a step and a rock slider, so I guess I'll be sticking with the OEM folding steps.

Yeah, they work for me, make it easy to climb in the back , better than balancing on a tow bar, these were LR ones, but they are the same as the steps you also find on transit vans, that bolt onto the tow bar. I cut them into two and drilled a couple of holes. I prefer them to the hd military ones as I just know I would lose a kneecap to them, LOL

Ref your sliders / steps , have you looked at what Paul D has made for his? search for him on here, he has made a nice set of steps / sliders combined.

Cheers

blue beasty · Mar 15, 2016

farmershort · Mar 15, 2016

ha yes - thanks both. To tell you the truth, when I'm assessing these things, I have my mother in mind. I know that she'd find something in the proper rock-slider position to be a little too high. I was hoping to find something in the normal step position that was strong enough to be protective. All the solutions I've seen so far are as above - a rock slider with a bit of tread plate.

neilly · Mar 15, 2016

Have a look at Paul D's , he has the sticky out bit ( foot step ) at a downward angle.

Cheers

blue beasty · Mar 15, 2016

Paul's slope down to lower the step/bar below the box section cill.

Paul D said:
Step, Rock and Tree sliders

Fairly hefty .. 50 x 50 x 3 mm box and round section thats a bit thicker with 6mm plate fillets!!

They have the usual attachment points, but also have 6mm tabs that are bolted onto the body sills and a cup underneath the bottom of the door pillar, hopefully to stop the ends bending. Only done the drivers side so far, but the nearside is also nearly ready, mirror image, watch this space .. )

They (it) might look odd to some people, but Ive done it this way for a number of reasons.

1. I need sliders .. Some of the tighter lanes in Lakes and North Yorks we do had made their marks on the Disco body and whilst the 90 is narrower, I felt they were needed.

2. They drop down cos I is a short fecker and wanted a step .. likewise for Juliet. I havent lost any breakover angle cos theyre still _just_ higher than the fuel tank.

3. I had the materials available, or rather, I had the square tubing, tc (top-cat, Top Bloke) provided the round pipe ..

4. I cant afford to buy stuff so making it gives me summat to do at little cost other than time.

I like em this way

Not quite finished. They need another coat or two of paint, and I've ordered a strip of non-slip skateboard decking for the tops of the step area. I've also still to clean down the silicone that had been used to mount the chequer plate sills and body trims .. still unsure whether to put them back on, probably will when i get round to it ..

farmershort · Mar 15, 2016

ahhh, nice. I like those. Could like quite flash with a little polishing of the design, but I dare say they'd sell if he produced them... I doubt my welding skills are up to it at the moment, and learning to spray paint is testing enough for me just now.

blue beasty · Mar 15, 2016

Tree sliders might be more useful anyway. In my experience of sliding sideways the side slope puts the upper body at more risk.

Paul D · Mar 15, 2016

Blowing me own trumpet here, but they work really well! Juliet loves them, she can now get in and out far easier, but for me the benefit is being able to hit solid stuff with impunity. They've taken some right hammer and only lost a little paint. They were all black, grey primer over red oxide pre-painted pipe .. but being paint it'd be easy to touch up again .. if I could be bothered!

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Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

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Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

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Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

Paul D

Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

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