Thnx
The transmission tunnel on my donor TD-5 has been cut an inch + likely I will cut off the tunnel on the original & bolt it on for the tunnel.
Looks like you have the same hole in passenger foot well, I was wondering what that was for?

When you cut the hole for the wiring thru bulkhead did you fit a bit of pipe in there?
 
Last edited:
Does the TD5 use the same heater as a 110 PU 1984 would?
seems to fit.
68C8EF1F-4B32-44C8-8329-E5498ACA349A.jpeg
 
I think all the heater boxes are the same (not sure about the transit engined ones), but you might find the connections on the motor are different as at some point there was a move from bullet connectors to econoseal connectors but it is possible to make small adapter looms if this is the case.
 
I may look at rebuilding but on to removing clutch box, pedals & steering.
does It matter which comes out first, if I look at it long enough something will seem obvious?
 
Seaswood said:
I may look at rebuilding but on to removing clutch box, pedals & steering.
does It matter which comes out first, if I look at it long enough something will seem obvious?
Click to expand...
They have to come out in a certain way as you twist them to get the pedal out…
Think clutch first to give room for the brake servo
 
Hicap phill said:
They have to come out in a certain way as you twist them to get the pedal out…
Think clutch first to give room for the brake servo
Click to expand...
the clutch can definitely be removed without removing anything else so I would start there and then see which the next obvious one is.
 
Clutch for what ever reason reverse was hard to get to work properly of which could be the old clutch master?
but it feels quite firm, rebuilt transmission new clutch new slave?
looking all this mess over before ripping apart as it needs to go together again in particular if fittings openings match in TD-5 bulkhead?
80C1B55D-5540-4BD3-86A1-69A501EAFDCE.jpeg
 
The diaphragm (transmission tunnel) bolts to bulkhead, fit captive nuts if you can, with everything apart its easy, put an engine in there and gearbox and removal is difficult, its hard to get a spanner behind the bulkhead to remove the gearbox tunnel. The heater box will fit, use a new seal and also use some sealant, it would be prudent to rebuild the heater box while its out. Drill the rivets out, take it apart, fit a new sponge seal to the mixer flap thing then rebuild with rivets and sealant. Its a job worth doing.

Also, when fitting the lower dash (plenum chamber) use sealant, you are in the position to do what you can to make the heater as efficient as possible.
 
Thoughts are to cut the center section from existing bulkhead fit that to donor bulkhead with help of welder friend.
sometime this summer so the tunnel attachments are intact.
take apart heater as you said.
mini has taken up time oil leaks.
 
Steve Parker suggests moving the clutch hose line mounting point but there are few place to go as limited range of the hose from slave. & basically that are still going to be hot!
any suggestions what to do for heat shielding?
I am not doing welding a friend is whom is very good slow like a Land Rover but glad anyways.
this is old bulkhead.
1750BECB-56CC-45D9-B655-DCCF20D20458.jpeg


this is replacement clutch attachment.
4F06E5D5-46E4-439B-8865-A437BE17E221.jpeg
 
Yes both clutch piping & starter will need protection just wondering what is best protection?
wrapping is one option or a metal heat shield?
 
Seaswood said:
Steve Parker suggests moving the clutch hose line mounting point but there are few place to go as limited range of the hose from slave. & basically that are still going to be hot!
any suggestions what to do for heat shielding?
I am not doing welding a friend is whom is very good slow like a Land Rover but glad anyways.
this is old bulkhead.
View attachment 293743

this is replacement clutch attachment.
View attachment 293744
Click to expand...


I had to move the clutch mounting pipe on my replacement 300tdi bulkhead (LINK post #226). I just cut the existing bracket off (which had bent during installation) and moved it over by enough to clear the exhaust. My previous 300tdi bulkhead had not had the bracket moved and did not have any problems but this one did.

Similarly on my previous bulkhead there was enough clearance between the exhaust and the footwell/clutch pipe that I was happy to leave everything unshielded but with the new bulkhead everything is a little closer. Due to this I wrapped my exhaust when I fitted a new starter (LINK post #23) and have not had any problems so far (6k miles). As you can see below I also have the factory heat shield for my starter that came fitted to this discovery engine I put in. My previous engine did not have anything and again I had no issue with this.

1690561326961.png


1690561336832.png
 
Exhaust tape are they all the same?

I will likely manufacture something to shield the starter if you have any pictures of it out of vehicle.
thnx.
 
Seaswood said:
Exhaust tape are they all the same?

I will likely manufacture something to shield the starter if you have any pictures of it out of vehicle.
thnx.
Click to expand...
I used this: LINK. I did some research and decided they were more or less the same
And the difference was the size and what else came in the kit.


This is the best pic I have of it off the vehicle. It attaches to the starter bolts and the little one at the back from Memory.

189CC213-9677-4DC0-90D0-3524855696D4.jpeg
 
Thnx that gives basic idea starter good to protect.
the metal ties same as in the package with the tape I assume..
 
Seaswood said:
the metal ties same as in the package with the tape I assume..
Click to expand...
What do you mean? The metal ties on my exhaust wrap were the ones included in the tape kit.

The starter heat shield has brackets molded into it similar to the one seen on the back. these attach to two of the securing bolts (starter to bell housing) at the front and the one one the back seen in the photo.
 
Seaswood said:
Yes both clutch piping & starter will need protection just wondering what is best protection?
wrapping is one option or a metal heat shield?
Click to expand...
I put a simple steel plate bolted to the inner wing mount to shield the clutch pipe....

www.landyzone.co.uk

2.5N/A to 200tdi conversion

I was out on farm the other day n met a farmer that had he’s body warmer rapped in baler twine to hold together as the zip had broke , ten minutes later he jumped in he’s brand new Range Rover n drove off :) keep the pics coming good project coming together nicely
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
The 2.5 has a shield on lower pipe to protect the slave I may see if I can fit that also.
thnx gives time to come up with something for heat.
 
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