NiallRussell · May 14, 2019

so today didn't get much done. But started to cut.

the irony of all this is the top part of the bulkhead which I thought was going to need attention is starting to look like a scratch compared with whats happening in the footwells.

much more rust on the panel than I thought yesterday, have a replacement foot box coming. It's an awkward place to get the cutter into as the brake lines are right there as well as other buggers. So i've cut out the rusty crap, and will make it neater later, or maybe neat enough to then shape the new part to. We'll see. I have just got the floor panel off to get the last of the crap out (the lip that joins under it) and then will maybe have some more room.

Turboman · May 14, 2019

NiallRussell said:
good, cause thats the one I've got.

It is an excellent product, which I have used a lot, on Land Rovers, farm machinery, and boats, with very good and long lasting results.

NiallRussell · May 15, 2019

Ok - hit a snag.

Really need input.

So I was prepared to learn as I go and figure this thing out as I went along, BUT. The bulkhead skins (if you like) come together and lay ontop of each other at the 'vents' part. The rust on the outer skin has gone through to the inner one, but no rust yet on the inside. So I need to get the outer skin off and then sand back and paint the inner before replacing the outer skin with a YRM pre cut panel.

My problem is I have no F-ing idea how to remove enough of the outer skin to easily use the pre cut panel. Surely you dont just cut the rusty bit and stack the panels? nothing would fit! Everywhere i go the outer skin and inner skin are spotted together.

whats the method?

the previous owner raised the bonnet hinges to help keep the engine cool, but i want to put the back down, to do this easily i was going to remove the bonnet gutter, but thats spot welded on too.

Should I cut the new panel to fit the rusty bit, there is a lot of little spots of rust I want to take out.

Here's the worst rust on the top section, left side. through multiple layers

Here is the other side screen hinge area...

Here's the vent area with the rust going through...

And the spot welds,

the gutter...

and the bit where outer meets inner and seems to be spot joined...

Do i just cut, drill and paddle sander everything away?

NiallRussell · May 15, 2019

Found a solution....

just get on and cut the rust out and stop being scared. Decided to cut both the inside and outside of the 'vent' space. glad I did as it was rusted to hell and about to burst into the inside. Tomorrow I will put a skin on the inside and then cut the panels to fit the outside. Giving myself till end of friday to have the top right hand corner welded, then the footwell on the right side, then the other side - turning into a big job, but I only want to do this once.

tottot · May 15, 2019

No choice but to go for it, just surprized how much rust is in there given the vents are sealed.

NiallRussell · May 15, 2019

tottot said:
No choice but to go for it, just surprised how much rust is in there given the vents are sealed.

well, yes it's sealed but the small nipples (giggle) that hold the plastic covers on are actually bolts that go through, and then with the inside and outside pressed together I guess what water does come in has nowhere to go! The whole thing wasn't rusty but taking the whole thing out was the only way i could think of doing it as the two side are spot welded together in places.

NiallRussell · May 16, 2019

Started to cut the panels to fit the BIG holes.

Defo should have clamped the panels over the area and cut both together. Not much fun trying to get them to match the cuts I've made.

Such a learning process. Could write a how not to guide.

A good feeling getting close to making the car look better than is did, or does now that i've taken an axe to it.

Colthebrummie · May 17, 2019

You're right, it is a good feeling when you see new metal going in where before there was only rust and holes. You're doing a great job, keep it up.

Col

NiallRussell · May 20, 2019

Three panels tacked in. slowly slowly starting to feel better about life. Managed to get the settings on the welder a bit smoother so that's helped. Leaving the welding that will be 'on displayed' till the very last.

tomorrow I will be able to get another two panels tk'd in and then start on the big front piece.

NiallRussell · May 26, 2019

Big few days,

Welding on right side done, made lots of passes, sanding and then welding again. blowing a few holes, covered them up, sanded, etc etc. Learnt lots of things not to do when I'm doing the left side.

Plus applied the chassis paint on the foot well, seems like amazing stuff.

Now going to start putting that side back together and then strip the other side ready for it's turn. Been a long long road.

mick the builder · May 26, 2019

Looking good. Thats the beauty of mig, you can go back and fill the holes. You can see your welds are getting better as your pictures progress.

Knappster · May 27, 2019

Looking good. A good write up too.

NiallRussell · May 27, 2019

mick the builder said:
Looking good. Thats the beauty of mig, you can go back and fill the holes. You can see your welds are getting better as your pictures progress.

I totaly agree with your words, 'getting better' not 'got good'. I'm trying hard to remember all the things I was taught about welding, the trouble is I'm on a DIY machine and the there is a magic setting I seem to want between 1 and 2, and there is no 1.5. I have to keep the wire speed low to let the heat cook, but risk holes, if I turn the amps up, it ends up blasting through. Tricky, but I'm getting there, lots of stirring helps.

Al2O3 · May 27, 2019

These things always turn out to be worse than they look on the surface. Looks like you are doing a very thorough job. Welding looks great to me, whether on a basic machine or not

mick the builder · May 27, 2019

NiallRussell said:
I totaly agree with your words, 'getting better' not 'got good'. I'm trying hard to remember all the things I was taught about welding, the trouble is I'm on a DIY machine and the there is a magic setting I seem to want between 1 and 2, and there is no 1.5. I have to keep the wire speed low to let the heat cook, but risk holes, if I turn the amps up, it ends up blasting through. Tricky, but I'm getting there, lots of stirring helps.

I understand the 1.5 bit. Rotary dials so much better. I didn't realise when I bought mine that 1, 2, min, max was not going to be very good

NiallRussell · May 27, 2019

SWITCHING OVER THE RACKET FROM LOOSEN TO TIGHTEN !!

Put on the bits and bobs for the wing and fittings. Won't put the wing on yet as I am readying the whole car for the roll cage and it goes through the wing to the outrigger. Got to cut a hole in it.

I haven't welded on the fitting for the wing / foot-well, instead I drilled and bolted it on, as I was thinking of putting a piece of mud flap type stuff from there to cover the outrigger and footwell to stop the mud / salt.

had a good day of it.

NiallRussell · May 27, 2019

Also managed to do the passenger door frame in an afternoon.

the whole bottom was rotten, including the area for the bottom hinges so I got a bottom sections that is already made up and drilled for the hinge bolts.

Unluckily my doors keep throwing up surprises, they are the original 1985 doors, so have a lift up handle outside and a pull towards lever inside. Very rare.

Anyway bought the defender section frame, only to find it did really match the frame section. However after learning from the bulkhead and seeing a video from Britannica Restorations Ltd on youtube where they push the new section inside the current one, weld it and then filler it smooth I realise I've been working too hard doing butt welds, so I decided to do something easier on the door...

I cut into the corners of the old frame section and bent them in, the new frame slid over them. The side part of the frame I cut free and then bent them over the top the new section. Gave me a lovely easy lap weld and to be honest was rock solid even without it. Then painted and sprayed the inside with Wax.

The frame is in a bad way in other places, so it won't lost too much longer but it gives it a few more years. My wife has not agreed to new doors yet.

NiallRussell · May 27, 2019

mick the builder said:
I understand the 1.5 bit. Rotary dials so much better. I didn't realise when I bought mine that 1, 2, min, max was not going to be very good

If it helps I made a huge break through today. I have a clarke 135te and the settings guide says 5-6 wire speed for the thickness of metal I've been working with but it struggled to melt the bottom layer.

I have been turning down the wire speed and BOOM. got to 4 and it's made all the difference. It heats before the new weld just plops ontop. Massive difference, I was so happy and then my gas ran out!!

doriz · May 27, 2019

Great thread this, interesting colour - love it

NiallRussell · May 28, 2019

doriz said:
Great thread this, interesting colour - love it

Not the colour that I would have chosen. Got the car in Oman and there is very limited 2nd choice, but have fallen for it.

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