Ian Maycock
Well-Known Member
Once you’d got the drawings , the 1st thing you’d need to do is make some sort of a jig because as well as getting it all square it also needs to be level and you wouldn’t want to be scrambling around on the floor trying to do it so you’d need a big table or frame , with adjusters on the bottom so you could level it properly . But I’d say doable if you’d got the time and patience.
nobber
Well-Known Member
Its the drawings that are proving difficult, rear crossmembers, dumb irons, all the bits can be bought but getting accurate drawings for the rest I don't think is possible. To program our laser machines for instance, you need accurate drawings and / or very accurate measurements.
Ian Maycock
Well-Known Member
Ye we use them at work , you need accurate drawings to write the programs . There’s got to be some out there somewhere you would have thought, as how do these firms make the chassis or the parts for the .
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
You are up for a challenge???
Over the years I have done tubular chassis for
Freelander 1
Series 2 88( on coils)
And 2 comp motors.
Yes I had access to formers/benders. But no hard drawings. Just measured,tacked then weld
Could you not recalculate using the 110 drawing? There are plenty of points/fixed items to work this out.
Good luck
Over the years I have done tubular chassis for
Freelander 1
Series 2 88( on coils)
And 2 comp motors.
Yes I had access to formers/benders. But no hard drawings. Just measured,tacked then weld
Could you not recalculate using the 110 drawing? There are plenty of points/fixed items to work this out.
Good luck
Ian Maycock
Well-Known Member
Like you say all the parts that are welded on to the rails you can buy or are quite easy to measure and make , the problem is the rails . Were you thinking of making the chassis rails out of 4 pieces then welding them into the box shape ? I did see one of the car programs were they took a part too a firm I think it was an exhaust manifold and they used this laser 3D plotter which made a 3D image the gave them exact measurements, but I doubt you know anyone with one of those 
. If you can’t find any drawings and your determined to have a go at it you could always make your own .
. If you can’t find any drawings and your determined to have a go at it you could always make your own .
Ian Maycock
Well-Known Member
Was thinking along the same lines that originals were pressed, the part chassis that I have seen are 4 seam welded, but it would be a bugger to keep square . I’ve welded 10mm plate into boxes before when I did steel work and it bows.
See Richards galvanized chassis, they are 4 pieces of flat plate all seam welded together, plenty strong enough being 2.5mm thick steel.
Here, nobber. Have you seen owl's ALRC Project Just scroll down page one, that'll wet your appetite. What am I saying!
Look through the rest of the thread, the finished machine is awesome
nobber
Well-Known Member
Keeping everything square will need a hell of a jig and baffles inside the rails.
I can only use 2mm , its all we stock in sheet at work, next up would be way too thick for the rails. Ive had a look at some photos, getting the top and bottom parts rolled to fit will be tricky because its not an even bow and some parts of it will invert to almost an s shape
, I reckon Richards use massive jigs and they must form the bowed parts top and bottom on a die, I don't think they roll them, but you never know.
Here, nobber. Have you seen owl's ALRC Project Just scroll down page one, that'll wet your appetite. What am I saying!
That's a nice job on that chassis, my only worry is if I deviate from the original too much would it be classed as a modification thus losing the vehicles ID, I cant go down that road, it has to keep its ID. So when does a replica replacement chassis become a modified chassis? What can I get away with?
The issue with the C section rails welded down the centre can be walked around by cutting the rail sides with a foldable wing top and bottom but it is only doable on anything straight, the axle arches would have to have a top and bottom fillet welded in, I don't know if this would make assembly any more difficult but it would be closer to the original. It would seem though that Richards chassis are plenty strong enough and although constructed differently they are classed as a like for like replacement. Please excuse my pants drawings...
If you can get an engineering report on it, saying it is 'fit for purpose' and will be safe when the shite is bolted back on ... it should be ok... make more enquiries though, it a while since I built racing things ...
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Get a new galv chassis. You can just say you(if asked) it's the original one you have repaired.
If you build new & get caught out you could be inspected & be issued with a Q plate.
If you build new & get caught out you could be inspected & be issued with a Q plate.
Discokids
Well-Known Member
He doesn't have to lie if he buys a new galv one, because it would be like for like replacement, he'd also struggle to convince anybody who knows land rovers that a Richards chassis was the original one that has been repaired due to their construction.
nobber
Well-Known Member
They arnt like for like, and they could well be illegal. They are constructed completely differently, even fitting a new cross member from what I gather isn't allowed.
Discokids
Well-Known Member
Marsland is like for like, as for Richards, I agree with you.
