J

Just me

New Member
I have posted this in the general forum sorry
I have a Disco TD5 on a 03 plate my pride and joy, also my shed.
One of the fuel pipes started to leak badly, so foolishly I took it to the nearest garage, seems a big mistake.
I was told tow bar had to be removed to allow the tank to drop out, result 3 out of 4 bolts sheared,
tank removed and new pipes fitted.
I got a call to tell me the alarm goes of when the door is opened, so I went and reset the code, I was assured the battery had not been disconnected, once immobiliser was reset, tried to start engine, will not start, so my question is
a) is there an isolator on the main fuel pipe
b) if so can this be reset
c) how the heck did he manage to switch off / damage said item
 
Two things might not be related, might not be starting because of air in system, has it run since the pipe changed? when mine run out of fuel had to purge it about 4 times before it would go
 
Ian M in France said:
Two things might not be related, might not be starting because of air in system, has it run since the pipe changed? when mine run out of fuel had to purge it about 4 times before it would go
Click to expand...
I also seem to remember (but some time ago so not sure) leaving it unlock for some time and then when I opened the door the alarm went off, I had to lock it up and unlock it
 
As above. Disconnecting the battery should have no affect on the alarm/immobiliser. Can you hear the fuel pump running when the key is turned to position 2 ?
If so it might be just air in the the system & again as already said just need bleeding/purging.
 
Sounds like air as others have said. I think it’s in the handbook ,a procedure for getting fuel through in a situation like this. It involves pumping the pedal and cranking the engine.
I cannot see it in the owners book ,maybe it’s somewhere else. I will have a hunt for it. Found it see below.

Also check the switch on the passenger side bulkhead under the bonnet,has a rubber top to it make sure that has not activated….give it a press to see.
The switch is for fuel cut off if you toppled over, they have been known to go off for odd reasons.
 
I cannot seem to post it..? See above sorry messed this up a bit.
 

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Sorry, can't read that last attachment, but the correct procedure for purging is to pump the throttle pedal five times quickly. This will bring the engine warning light on and start the purge procedure. You will hear it believe me! As said sometimes it needs doing a couple of time to clear all the air. Try this before more drastic measures...
 
Hi my fuel pipes were accessed from the inspection plate in the boot, but I have to say untill you drop the fuel tank they are very tight /pinched in place by the tank
 
The normal culprit is the green connector pipe that runs across the tank and comes out just above part of the chassis on the offside and is fitted with a push connector. It rubs on the chassis and leaks. Cut the carpet cleanly with a SHARP knife across the lower end of the rear seat fixings, or the cover plates and lift the carpet flap to expose the fuel pump access plate. Once the access plate is removed, and the pipe unplugged from the pump, it can be replaced by attaching some cord and pulling it through, using the cord to pull the new one into place. If you want to remove the tank, OK, but its not necessary.
When you replace the pipe, or even if you don't have a leak at the moment, get a small piece of sponge pipe insulation and push it under the pipe where it rubs on the chassis to prevent this happening at all/again...
 
Hellastony said:
Sorry, can't read that last attachment, but the correct procedure for purging is to pump the throttle pedal five times quickly. This will bring the engine warning light on and start the purge procedure. You will hear it believe me! As said sometimes it needs doing a couple of time to clear all the air. Try this before more drastic measures...
Click to expand...
Hellastony said:
The normal culprit is the green connector pipe that runs across the tank and comes out just above part of the chassis on the offside and is fitted with a push connector. It rubs on the chassis and leaks. Cut the carpet cleanly with a SHARP knife across the lower end of the rear seat fixings, or the cover plates and lift the carpet flap to expose the fuel pump access plate. Once the access plate is removed, and the pipe unplugged from the pump, it can be replaced by attaching some cord and pulling it through, using the cord to pull the new one into place. If you want to remove the tank, OK, but its not necessary.
When you replace the pipe, or even if you don't have a leak at the moment, get a small piece of sponge pipe insulation and push it under the pipe where it rubs on the chassis to prevent this happening at all/again...
Click to expand...

Sorry do not know what went wrong with that. Your spot on with the procedure.

Th fuel pipe in this area was subject to JLR recall notice and should have been done free of charge.When it happened to me the local stealer W.H WHITE ,refused to do it even though they were aware of it being a recall. It happened to me 50 miles from home and i was dripping fuel, but Disco kept going, he got me home.

So me and a mechanic did it he had done loads before ,he undid the fuel tank and lowered ,it a bit to improve access.t was the green one causing issues and he put a a piece of conduit like material round the pipe, he did the starting procedure and had to do it a few times battery went flat in the end and we had to use a jump from his Disco.
I complained to JLR who said they could not help as they could not make a dealer do it.I am sure somebody on here will have a copy of the notice.
You may find a good dealer.
 
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