Having a bit of an issue with my defender. A while ago it started making a bit of a squeal when it was warmed up and being driven. It was an off/on noise as though it was maybe one particular wheel and it was making the noise at one particular point of its travel, defo not an engine noise at all. Noise speeded up as I increased speed and vice versa. It went in for a service including brakes and seemed ok when it came back but then after a while it felt like brakes were binding ie when slowing down on an incline seemed to slow quicker etc ( u know the feeling though its hard to describe). The garage where I get my work done belongs to a very capable mate of mine who has rebuilt many Defenders and so I trust him. Anyway it went back in and came back seeming better though I didn't see him when I collected the car and its been fine since. And now it seems to have re-occurred. My paths on a slope and when I let off the handbrake it doesn't roll. Everything points to me like brakes are binding but for the fact I've confidence in my mate who looks after it. Could it be owt else like wheel bearings?

I've just had rear wheel bearing replaced. They did not squeal, just added to the general road and drivetrain noise. They clattered and clanked when they completely failed.

Does it pull to one side when braking? This might indicate that the brakes are binding to one side. It would be a coincidence if both began binding at the same time. Instead is the handbrake binding?

Check the pistons arent seized on the caliper

No its braking straight. I even checked to see if any wheel seemed hot but it was ok. Handbrake could be sticking on maybe?

steveyorks said:

No its braking straight. I even checked to see if any wheel seemed hot but it was ok. Handbrake could be sticking on maybe?

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Possibly. Try putting it on axle stands and checking rotation of each wheel braked and un-braked. You would have to disconnect the props. That eliminates wheel braking and bearings. From memory the handbrake is a mechanical linkage with rods. Someone will surely correct me if I'm wrong. It works on the drivetrain out of the back of the transfer box. Usually the problem is low effort and oil leaks rather than binding though.

Later models have a handbrake cable (rather than rods) and the cable can bind. That said the return springs are fairly strong so should be able to pull a slightly stiff cable, Worth checking to see if handbrake drum is warm after a drive as it could just be the adjuster that needs a tweak.

Tomorrows job then will be to get under and have a feel! sounds more fun then it is sadly.

steveyorks said:

Tomorrows job then will be to get under and have a feel! sounds more fun then it is sadly.

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If its a 90 just lift drivers seat base and panel and you can reach the drum without getting under it.

Top idea you are right! Keeps me out of the rain! Cheers for that