rover75lover

rover75lover

Active Member
took the rangey to my friendly mot tester today,shes not due till april and they were quiet so he kindly gave it a quick once over for anything major so to speak.
He's picked up on the brake pipes front to real,etc being ,um,not good so to speak.
Being an auto Im going to change them anyway as i dont want a brown trousers moment if they were to give way on me,prevention being better than a cure etc.
Now the question Id like to ask you lads is,the front ones look fine,think its because they live in a cleaner environment,if the old girl was yours would you change the lot when shes off the road or just any that have rust etc on them.
Was going to change the brake fluid anyway as ,being she hasnt been with me long I dont know her past so to speak and being an auto the brakes,fluid etc do get more use
your comments appreciated
 
rover75lover said:
took the rangey to my friendly mot tester today,shes not due till april and they were quiet so he kindly gave it a quick once over for anything major so to speak.
He's picked up on the brake pipes front to real,etc being ,um,not good so to speak.
Being an auto Im going to change them anyway as i dont want a brown trousers moment if they were to give way on me,prevention being better than a cure etc.
Now the question Id like to ask you lads is,the front ones look fine,think its because they live in a cleaner environment,if the old girl was yours would you change the lot when shes off the road or just any that have rust etc on them.
Was going to change the brake fluid anyway as ,being she hasnt been with me long I dont know her past so to speak and being an auto the brakes,fluid etc do get more use
your comments appreciated
Click to expand...

Worst one probably the rear above fuel tank, well known for rot
Change them all when at it if car is a keeper, IMO
 
Any that are rusty and pitted change. Use 3/16" cupro nickel pipe for renewing.
 
and the front to rear behind the air receiver on the drivers side.

I did a waxoil at the same time.
 
You might want to consider replacing the flexis whilst you're at it. Once you've done them, replaced the fluid and bled it properly you should be sorted for a good few years.
 
yeah good advice on the flexis as well,we cant actually see whats going on inside can we.When you think on it after 18 years ,hard work on an auto they may not handle being stripped off,rotated etc etc.
I found on a polo i did and my old classic car that i had weird problems like the brakes binding not releasing properly due to the pipes being constricted ,they'd take the extra pressure when applied but they couldnt let the fliuid flow back.
Ill deffo change them as im doing it,if i keep it,good insurance,if i dont id hate anyone else to have an accident because i hadnt changed them.
thanks guys,i know deep down what i need to do but just need kicking in the right direction.
thanks again
 
If you remove the drivers side inner (plastic) wheel arch liner (Liner-front wheelarch - RH ALR8994). You will be able to access (clearly see) where the brake pipes connect to the rear. Good advice to do the whole rear and flexies.
One point, if you havent removed a liner before is you need to remove the mudflap as well. The screws are normally rusted in so some brute force may be neaded. Also be carefull removing the plastic push fit connectors holding the liner on as you will need to put them back, get the centre part out first and then the main part.
 
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Suddenly had a brake fluid leak at rear of car today. There was fluid all over the place, down chassis rails, over the axle, height sensor, etc. After loads of wiping & cleaning, I eventually traced the leak to the 90-deg bend on drivers side where the NS rear pipe goes over the chassis cross member. So will be doing both front to rear pipes soon, but gotta buy the tools & pipe.

Is it easier to feed them front to rear, or from the back ?
 
I'd post* you my Sykes Pickavant pro kit but I fear it may be a rather expensive stamp.:eek:


* based on your time here and your ability to string more than 2 words together.:D

ps. those cheap little £15 kits actually work ok, on soft metals.!!

pps. There are companies that sell pipe already flared, to your desired length, or their prescribed length for a given application. (Light bulb moji)
 
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Having been travelling for a bit, I ordered flaring tool (not 70's version), Copper-Nickel pipe & fittings, I now have everything ready for Saturday. Still wondering how much straightening I need to do before I feed the pipes through.

Regarding the bleeding, couple of questions to those who have done it:
  1. Is it worth moving the coolant header tank to access the master bleed valves, or can it be done without ?
  2. Must an assistant be used, or will vacuum bleed work for the slave cylinders ?
Thanks,
Pete
 
pwood999 said:
Having been travelling for a bit, I ordered flaring tool (not 70's version), Copper-Nickel pipe & fittings, I now have everything ready for Saturday. Still wondering how much straightening I need to do before I feed the pipes through.

Regarding the bleeding, couple of questions to those who have done it:
  1. Is it worth moving the coolant header tank to access the master bleed valves, or can it be done without ?
  2. Must an assistant be used, or will vacuum bleed work for the slave cylinders ?
Thanks,
Pete
Click to expand...
The bleed nipples can be accessed without moving the header tank, at least I managed. Not sure you can use a vacuum bleeder, I used a cheapo bleed kit with a non return valve. You must follow the instructions in RAVE to the letter.
 
My over axle pipe was severely corroded. I could snap it with light finger pressure! Using loose pipe and connections allows you to mix and match where it's easiest to put connections. I also changed the brake booster ball.
 
Accumulator that's it. P38 brakes are remarkably good when everything's working ok! Mine was cycling the pump every touch of the brakes. After it was every three or four. Just unscrew screw new one on.
 
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