mick 1986
Well-Known Member
All of the unions are M10 x 1.0mm. I would buy two packs of male and female unions. I can’t remember which one I was short of when I done my rebuild, but I bought one pack of each and had to go back for a second. Make sure you know which flare goes with each fitting, and make sure you practice on a piece of scrap pipe. What sort of flare tool do you have?
New brake pipe to chassis clips make a tidy job of it, if you cannot get the snap in type the P type are as good, but do neeed a hole for the screw to secure them.
Might be wise to get new flexis as well as the rear axle T piece, all parts are real cheap.
Depending on what calipers you have the front short brake pipes are fiddly buggers to bend nicely.
Might be wise to get new flexis as well as the rear axle T piece, all parts are real cheap.
Depending on what calipers you have the front short brake pipes are fiddly buggers to bend nicely.
mick 1986
Well-Known Member
I agree with all of this. I went with stainless P clips screwed into stainless rivnuts with stainless bolts. I figured it was easier to monitor the condition and replace the pipes mounting them this way.
My front pipes were a pig to bend neatly, they aren’t that neat now, but do sort of follow the originals, so are out the way of everything.
I just had to rebuild most of the pipes in my 2000 110. My advice would be to not cheap out on the flaring kit. I bought a cheaper eBay tool which was like £18 and included flaring and bending tools. My results were so inconsistent in practise that I ended up buying a more expensive one for about £40:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-for-3-16-Brake-Pipes-Pro-Hand-held-SAE-Double-Bubble-/282619580608
The results were night and day.
As for pipe bender I bought one of these in the end:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handy-5mm-Brake-Pipe-Bender-Bending-Tool-2-Bending-Options-Handy-Tool-/233868725166
Cheaper than a lot of the others and it makes tighter bends. You can use it in situ as well because it’s so much smaller. Most were easy except the one across the engine bay to the front o/s. That one was a nightmare, largely because I was doing it at 2am with it booked in for an MOT the next day.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-for-3-16-Brake-Pipes-Pro-Hand-held-SAE-Double-Bubble-/282619580608
The results were night and day.
As for pipe bender I bought one of these in the end:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handy-5mm-Brake-Pipe-Bender-Bending-Tool-2-Bending-Options-Handy-Tool-/233868725166
Cheaper than a lot of the others and it makes tighter bends. You can use it in situ as well because it’s so much smaller. Most were easy except the one across the engine bay to the front o/s. That one was a nightmare, largely because I was doing it at 2am with it booked in for an MOT the next day.
That looks nifty, not seen one of them before.
discomania
Well-Known Member
I just bought a roll of pipe and bag of M10 x 1 unions and a Tee etc. I ordered a set of SS braided lines too.
Luckily I have access to a bench mount Sykes Pickavant flaring tool. However, about 10 years ago when I made a load up, I bought the pipe, cut it all to size using the old lines/vehicle as a template then took them to my local independent motor factor who flared them all for me for about £10.
Don't be tempted by those utter carp little hand held ones that look like a split former that clamps together.
mick 1986
Well-Known Member
I have the same brake flaring tool. It was being thrown out by an old army store man who got a new one because the NSN didn’t match his ET. I asked if he minded if I had it, the usually chocky hobnob currency came into play, and the deal was done. I don’t like any of the hand held flaring tools, but I do understand why people buy them. I hope you bought male and female fittings?
greendefender123
Member
Do you mean like this?
Iv just upgraded to it from borrowing a cheap Chinese one that does lots of size pipes. Got on really well with the new one yesterday and the pipe joints didn't leak.
mick 1986
Well-Known Member
No I think he was referring to this type.
I have used all three types listed in this thread. The worst is this type I have just attached a photo of, then the split type you attached the photo of, and the best is the Sykes Pickavant vice mounted type.
The type you posted a photo of has advantages over my vice mounted one, but the vice mounted type has its advantages over the hand held types. So long as the joins don’t leak, and the user is happy, then use whatever you have available.
discomania
Well-Known Member
No, the long skinny things that you tighten a wing nut down on.
discomania
Well-Known Member
True that!
discomania
Well-Known Member
This looks like a decent little one. Do you have that one? Is it good? Mine is bench mounted which is great for making new lines but no good if you need to flare on a vehicle, i.e. to put in a repair section.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Yes, that one is the one I have too.
Can be used on the vehicle.
mick 1986
Well-Known Member
That’s the same type I used when I made the brake lines for the Puma I built. It came from the “snap on man”, so god knows how much it cost. The tool itself created good and usable flares, but it relied on your ability to be able to tighten down the flaring tool against the strength of your other hand. Imagine trying to tighten a nut and bolt in your hands using a pair of ring spanner’s, it’s that type of action. As you said, for on vehicle repairs, the likes of the vice mounted setups are useless, but I wouldn’t trade mine for one of these.
greendefender123
Member
Yes it's the one iv got. Got it from eBay. If you get one. I'd make sure the one you get has the stop bolt for the pipe length. If you're always doing brake pipes you can judge it. But I usually go years between so it's helpful having the length set first.
