Uphillphil

New Member
Merry Christmas!!

It seems that I need to replace my brake master cylinder.
How difficult is this to do at home???

Any tips would be most welcome.
Thanks.
 
abs ? reasonably simple ,but be steady with the pedal when bleeding m/cs arent cheap ,servo push rod shouldnt need setting but i have found some that were too long for new m/c causing brakes to gradually apply after a few miles and others were the rod was too short giving a pedal that needed pumping twice to get hard pedal felt as if air in the system ,its only td5s were ive come across this
 
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abs ? reasonably simple ,but be steady with the pedal when bleeding m/cs arent cheap ,servo push rod shouldnt need setting but i have found some that were too long for new m/c causing brakes to gradually apply after a few miles and others were the rod was too short giving a pedal that needed pumping twice to get hard pedal felt as if air in the system ,its only td5s were ive come across this

Thanks James.
No ABS.
It is an early TD5.
 
you could do but its better to purge old oil out with fresh in new m/c

hmmm,so are you suggesting that the system should be pumped through by the new m/c to clear the old oil rather than flush it out when disconnected?:confused:

I usually clean the lines and calipers out before fitting the new m/c.......
 
hmmm,so are you suggesting that the system should be pumped through by the new m/c to clear the old oil rather than flush it out when disconnected?:confused:

I usually clean the lines and calipers out before fitting the new m/c.......

thats the way i do it there are others ,once new m/c has fluid in both sides its unlikely to fail with pumping, bleeding is easier if theres fluid in the pipes so youre not completely emptying system or flusing debris from pipes cylinders etc back to new m/c
 
thats the way i do it there are others ,once new m/c has fluid in both sides its unlikely to fail with pumping, bleeding is easier if theres fluid in the pipes so youre not completely emptying system or flusing debris from pipes cylinders etc back to new m/c
ok,so

i use a massive syringe and flush the system with fresh oil,from each caliper to the master end,i run it into a waste bottle untill clear,it removes air and dirt.

then i connect the new master and rebleed,its alot of work but it really gets the lines clear,

im sure the way you do yours is quick tho....
 
ok,so

i use a massive syringe and flush the system with fresh oil,from each caliper to the master end,i run it into a waste bottle untill clear,it removes air and dirt.

then i connect the new master and rebleed,its alot of work but it really gets the lines clear,

im sure the way you do yours is quick tho....

it would work well :)but you still end up pressing the pedal as much to shift the little air at pipe to m/c connection
 
it would work well :)but you still end up pressing the pedal as much to shift the little air at pipe to m/c connection


yeah i can live with that,I get alot of "dirt " out that way and allways seems to giv a good result.I fit new brake pads if the more than 50% worn.

I clean the pistons on the calipers before returning them for new pads.this is done pre flush so any extra gook gets flushed too.pads dont cost much.:rolleyes:
 
yeah i can live with that,I get alot of "dirt " out that way and allways seems to giv a good result.I fit new brake pads if the more than 50% worn.

I clean the pistons on the calipers before returning them for new pads.this is done pre flush so any extra gook gets flushed too.pads dont cost much.:rolleyes:
good advice and practice ,most dont seem to bother as long as brakes seem to work
 
I am new to this.
Should I be disconnecting the brake lines at the calipers, then keep filling the brake fluid reservoir whilst pumping the brake pedal until fresh fluid comes out at the calipers???
Sorry to sound stupid, but this is a first for me.
Thanks.
 

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