Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Have you fitted the spring to hold the pedal up? 
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
It is non servo and the switch is on a five way jobber on the chassis. All the brake components are new apart from the master cylinder
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
I haveHave you fitted the spring to hold the pedal up?
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
No idea
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Make sure you have a breather hole in the cap
Suck some fluid out so you have 3/4 of a pot
Your new brake drum springs are working well. Set the snails.
Is the brake switch electronic? (Take photo please)
Suck some fluid out so you have 3/4 of a pot
Your new brake drum springs are working well. Set the snails.
Is the brake switch electronic? (Take photo please)
TheMegaMan
Well-Known Member
You mean it's a pressure switch in the hydraulic system rather than a mechanical switch on the pedal?
Terrible idea, although usually the failure mechanism is that they aren't sensitive enough so the brake lights don't come on unless you're breaking quite hard. Or they just start leaking.
If you have the option of swapping to a mechanical switch (ie, somewhere to mount it), that would be my preference. Otherwise, try a new switch?
Did you rebuild the car or someone else?
Inline brake switch is normally super reliable, mine is ancient, they are easy enough to replace, Be aware Iirc there are two different thread types, might help to burp it, ie remove the two wires and loosen the switch unitil fluid start to weep, then get someone to lightly pump the pedal as you retighten the switch.
If you look in the fluid reservior, the correct level is just above the internal tube.
Inline brake switch is normally super reliable, mine is ancient, they are easy enough to replace, Be aware Iirc there are two different thread types, might help to burp it, ie remove the two wires and loosen the switch unitil fluid start to weep, then get someone to lightly pump the pedal as you retighten the switch.
If you look in the fluid reservior, the correct level is just above the internal tube.
Blackburn
Well-Known Member
Take the six screws out of the plate above the brake pedal under the bonnet remove plate, below plate is master cylinder pushrod with brakes not applied you should be able to move the pushrod a couple of mm this is to allow the piston in master cylinder to return fully ie not being pushed by the pushrod.
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
'Twas me so I can't blame anyone else
'Twas me so I can't blame anyone else
Not being anal, even though I am at times! get some rubber lined p clips, that plain one will chew through that wire loom pdq.
I like nice tidy stuff and when I see nice things like yours the extra effort makes all the difference, not many will even notice it, but you will get some serious respect from those saddos that do.
If you search there is a correct pedal beight to be set, it is something like 150mm top of pedal vertically down to the floor, adjusted by the bolt at the front of the brake box.
Then adjust the master cylinder free play at the pushrod as detailed by Blackburn above.
Single line system needs everything to be adjusted correctly, and then its pretty damned good.
This bolt in your pic adjusts pedal height
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
The do, I use the lined clips. You can use old inner tube or wrape the loom, but as they are they wil saw into the loom.
Palagius
Well-Known Member
Hi,
That all looks very smart,i am a newbie to land rovers so excuse the presumption, but....
When everything is checked and working o.k it may pay to wrap your loom and check anywhere that there is a edge,it is not a case of 'if' but 'when' for wiring failure if it loose or rubbing,rubber gromets can be cut and superglued to install if the loom is all connected,the brake lines have to be likewise insulated in similar areas as well,
I have had many,many bikes and the principle is the same,i have also installed some inline fuses to my series on some unfused components for peace of mind.
great job,
All the best
Ryn
wet and warm west cornwall
That all looks very smart,i am a newbie to land rovers so excuse the presumption, but....
When everything is checked and working o.k it may pay to wrap your loom and check anywhere that there is a edge,it is not a case of 'if' but 'when' for wiring failure if it loose or rubbing,rubber gromets can be cut and superglued to install if the loom is all connected,the brake lines have to be likewise insulated in similar areas as well,
I have had many,many bikes and the principle is the same,i have also installed some inline fuses to my series on some unfused components for peace of mind.
great job,
All the best
Ryn
wet and warm west cornwall
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
Wrap it!!! Wash your mouth out
There is a retro looking fuse box on the bulkhead that everything is running through
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
Finally got 'round to having a look. Adjusted the pedal height and noticed this was on the wrong way around
Slo the springs weren't pulling the pedals all the way back....
Now to tune the carb
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Told you .... must be getting better working/guessing on sheds..
