Trailer cables can be the cheapest, nastiest rubbish available. Whatever you get, make sure it's not going to rot. At least it's not in full sun, but could get oily etc
 
I know a bloke who runs a trailer place, I’ll get some good tackle off him. Am away tae Greece tomorrow so will update this when I get back and complete it, quite an interesting exercise so far.
 
Minor hijack of the thread while @Fatrover is cooking in Greece...
Similar issue with lack of supply to the switch, BUT mine is ex-mil. Am I right in thinking there should be supply to the brake switch with the Military multi-switch in any of the "standard" lighting modes?
If that is right then I will probably just run a new supply to the switch (from the (new) fuse box.

And while I am here....why have I got a switch on the back of the servo unit?
servo switch.jpg
 
Minor hijack of the thread while @Fatrover is cooking in Greece...
Similar issue with lack of supply to the switch, BUT mine is ex-mil. Am I right in thinking there should be supply to the brake switch with the Military multi-switch in any of the "standard" lighting modes?
If that is right then I will probably just run a new supply to the switch (from the (new) fuse box.

And while I am here....why have I got a switch on the back of the servo unit?
Can’t help on the first part but as to what the switch is…it’s a pressure gauge that should be hooked in to the brake warning light in the dash. If servo produces no pressure the light comes on to tell you you’ll need to jump on the pedal to try and stop. Least that’s how it works on my civilian s3.
 
Right, an update. First, if you think the UKs a ****hole, go to Greece.

Had a go at the brake light issue from scratch today, The fuse is good, the the switch is good. 12 volts in from the hot side, continuity from the open side.. It all looked good on the voltmeter, but still,no brake lights. I pulled the entire fusebox down and started looking for a short. Nothing. Checked voltage with the fuse installed and noticed it would jump from 1 to 5 volts as I moved it....upon closer inspection the inside of the clips are badly tarnished as are most of the other terminals…no amount of cleaning would give me proper conductivity.
Took a feed from the live in side through to the pedal switch, lights work!

looks like a new fuse box will do it but in the meantime I’m legal again!
 
Minor hijack of the thread while @Fatrover is cooking in Greece...
Similar issue with lack of supply to the switch, BUT mine is ex-mil. Am I right in thinking there should be supply to the brake switch with the Military multi-switch in any of the "standard" lighting modes?
If that is right then I will probably just run a new supply to the switch (from the (new) fuse box.

And while I am here....why have I got a switch on the back of the servo unit?
View attachment 294090
That switch is the brake light switch
 
Right, an update. First, if you think the UKs a ****hole, go to Greece.

Had a go at the brake light issue from scratch today, The fuse is good, the the switch is good. 12 volts in from the hot side, continuity from the open side.. It all looked good on the voltmeter, but still,no brake lights. I pulled the entire fusebox down and started looking for a short. Nothing. Checked voltage with the fuse installed and noticed it would jump from 1 to 5 volts as I moved it....upon closer inspection the inside of the clips are badly tarnished as are most of the other terminals…no amount of cleaning would give me proper conductivity.
Took a feed from the live in side through to the pedal switch, lights work!

looks like a new fuse box will do it but in the meantime I’m legal again!
I replaced my fuse block with new as I had varying voltage on my voltmeter gauge would you believe it , I found the issue was the rivets loose on some holding the blade terminals
B395DEE1-7AF1-4026-B24E-DB58983F47C5.jpeg
 
I replaced my fuse block with new as I had varying voltage on my voltmeter gauge would you believe it , I found the issue was the rivets loose on some holding the blade terminals View attachment 294627
I think that’s what’s wrong with mine as well as a **** tone of Sahara dust and that green verde corrosion……in the bin shortly
 
Minor hijack of the thread while @Fatrover is cooking in Greece...
Similar issue with lack of supply to the switch, BUT mine is ex-mil. Am I right in thinking there should be supply to the brake switch with the Military multi-switch in any of the "standard" lighting modes?
If that is right then I will probably just run a new supply to the switch (from the (new) fuse box.

And while I am here....why have I got a switch on the back of the servo unit?
View attachment 294090
On closer look at pic didn’t notice it before on the front of servo is the unwired switch which as TS2304 says will be for the brake warning light there can be several switches wired in series so it light comes on you know you have a problem somewhere, it’s in the manual as below
A31ADC16-7029-4467-8D15-18999F581E58.jpeg
 
Can’t help on the first part but as to what the switch is…it’s a pressure gauge that should be hooked in to the brake warning light in the dash. If servo produces no pressure the light comes on to tell you you’ll need to jump on the pedal to try and stop. Least that’s how it works on my civilian s3.

On closer look at pic didn’t notice it before on the front of servo is the unwired switch which as TS2304 says will be for the brake warning light there can be several switches wired in series so it light comes on you know you have a problem somewhere, it’s in the manual as belowView attachment 294663

Thanks guys. I have wiring for the pedal box and the fluid pressure switch but nothing that looks like it was ever connected to the servo switch. I guess that is something I can look at once the other 185 wee tasks are taken care of.
Still no supply to the pedal box tho.
:)
 
The brake switch supply should be the green wire coming from terminal 8 on the fuse box, I was pleasantly surprised when I changed mine to see the terminals are actually numbered , so it might just have come off and hanging nearby ?
5F777E67-9F47-4F1C-9AC3-99A3ECC36CA7.jpeg
 
take a feed from the live side of the fuse box and connect across the pedal switch Wires to see if you have a dodgy fuse box like mine, it’s also a green wire on mine
 
Right, an update. First, if you think the UKs a ****hole, go to Greece.

Had a go at the brake light issue from scratch today, The fuse is good, the the switch is good. 12 volts in from the hot side, continuity from the open side.. It all looked good on the voltmeter, but still,no brake lights. I pulled the entire fusebox down and started looking for a short. Nothing. Checked voltage with the fuse installed and noticed it would jump from 1 to 5 volts as I moved it....upon closer inspection the inside of the clips are badly tarnished as are most of the other terminals…no amount of cleaning would give me proper conductivity.
Took a feed from the live in side through to the pedal switch, lights work!

looks like a new fuse box will do it but in the meantime I’m legal again!
Multimeters tell lies, you can have volts but not enough power to drive the item, bulb/relay etc, caught many people out over the years.
 

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