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Rorie

Active Member

• Jan 3, 2019

• #1

After much research, I went to flare my new brake pipes, but came to a halt....

As I understand it, the male connectors are either SAE (slight chamfer on inside of connector) or DIN (flat face). This means you need to either create a SAE flare or a DIN flare.

I got metric components and a new flaring tool from my local shop. Looking at them, I gather I need DIN flares as the male nuts are flat. Photos below. But, the die on the new flare kit has a tapered inside (for SAE)....so how to I create a DIN face?

The instructions of the kit are also below. I can't work out if the kit does both DIN and SAE, or if its generic instructions. I am guessing I only have the SAE flare and the instructions are for both?

Further to my confusion, a pre-made pipe for the callipers seems to have a SAE flare on a DIN fitting?

What am I missing? Do I need to go and gat a DIN die now, or can I use an SAE flare as they have done on the calliper fittings?

Original pipe with DIN flare:

Pre-made pipe for

inside of die

Instructions for new flare tool

Parts of new flare kit

 

Flossie

Well-Known Member

• Jan 3, 2019

• #2

You have the correct tool .
The pre made pipe flare will squash to the shape of the used flare.
Use both ops on your tool, op 1 first followed by op 2.

 

Flossie

Well-Known Member

• Jan 3, 2019

• #3

Sending you a pm too.

 

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Rorie

Active Member

• Jan 3, 2019

• #4

Ok, so talked through with Flossie on the phone and I understand how to use the tool to make SAE double flares.
Now that I understand a bit better, I can see that this tool is ONLY for SAE flares (single and double). I'll need a new die if I want to make DIN flares.

Reading more online, I have read several articles stating that single flares shouldn't be used in brake systems. But, that is contrary to other articles, including LRTV (see 12mins onwards here )
I can see the logic in wanting a single flare for when fitting up to the likes of a calliper to get the geometry right. So what is best to do?

But, I am wondering if I need to get a DIN flare? I have metric fittings, so in theory I need to get the square shoulder. But, as the photos below may show, these SAE flares seem to fit very nicely in the fittings I got today.

The inside of the female fittings are concave and not flat, so I need the SAE for those. Perhaps the fittings I got today are for SAE despite being metric?

 

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Rorie

Active Member

• Jan 4, 2019

• #5

Any thoughts?

 

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Hicap phill

Well-Known Member

• Jan 4, 2019

• #6

Looking at the sae/din picture the shoulders are different, is that why the flare is different?

Not had any probs looking at your pictures with that type of flare.

 

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brianconwy

Well-Known Member

• Jan 4, 2019

• #7

I downloaded this picture some time ago which suggests single flare for female connector and double flare for male connector. I don't know how accurate this information is.

 

Chrisw8

Well-Known Member

• Jan 4, 2019

• #8

What vehicle are they for ?

 

Kev12

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Jan 4, 2019

• #9

brianconwy said:

I downloaded this picture some time ago which suggests single flare for female connector and double flare for male connector. I don't know how accurate this information is.View attachment 166375

Click to expand...

Other way around, the flare on the left is a double

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Jan 4, 2019

• #10

brianconwy said:

I downloaded this picture some time ago which suggests single flare for female connector and double flare for male connector. I don't know how accurate this information is.View attachment 166375

Click to expand...

neither are a single flare

 

Brown

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Jan 4, 2019

• #11

Like with compression fittings in domestic plumbing, the seal is made as a result of the elasticity and deformability of the metal. With soft copper pipe it is as if it's acting as its own gasket. Single flares are sometimes treated sceptically because they are a bit weaker. The main thing is to get the end of the pipe wide enough so the nut can get a grip on the pipe and it will make its own ledges and lands. The most important part of the seal is where the end of the pipe meets the component - the caliper, the connector or whatever. again, the deformability of the pipe will make the seal, assuming the component's face is nice and smooth and isn't scratched or pitted and no grit has got in. Those flaring tools of the kind depicted above make the most delightful little pips on the ends of pipes, and look almost like they've been done in the factory.