tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Get the rear up on a set of ramps, piece of ****.
Get the rear up on a set of ramps, piece of ****.
Why is the swear filter starring out CAKE.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Yes, its a P38 DSE, 1997MY.
Thanks for all replies. I will get under the car on this saturday.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I think Mozz had that included, he want's it all for himself.Why is the swear filter starring out CAKE.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Well, the problem is not a leaking brake pipe or seals but rera right brake pad has dropped, may be due to wear beyond the minimum limit. This has shifted the cylinder out and hence the leak.
I checked all brake pads abouta month ago and all were within half limit. Wonder why this one worn too quickly.
Got new pads fitted and started bleeding as pr rangerovers.net instructins.
After bleeding the front wheels the next step was to bleed the front booster. With the switch on the flow was not constant it was intermittant and sometimes not even drop of oil. ABS pump makes a noise too. This Idid for 7 or 8 times with same results. So cant judge whether all air was out.
Since its late stopped for the day and will start tommorrow with rear brakes, as per procedure.
Anyway my brake warning light still remains on, do I need diagnostics to cancel it?
Or will it cancel itself once i finish the rea end?
I checked all brake pads abouta month ago and all were within half limit. Wonder why this one worn too quickly.
Got new pads fitted and started bleeding as pr rangerovers.net instructins.
After bleeding the front wheels the next step was to bleed the front booster. With the switch on the flow was not constant it was intermittant and sometimes not even drop of oil. ABS pump makes a noise too. This Idid for 7 or 8 times with same results. So cant judge whether all air was out.
Since its late stopped for the day and will start tommorrow with rear brakes, as per procedure.
Anyway my brake warning light still remains on, do I need diagnostics to cancel it?
Or will it cancel itself once i finish the rea end?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing that until you have bled the whole system the light will stay on.
Follow the instructions in RAVE to the letter. Red brake warning lamp will not go out with hand brake on. Which lamp is staying on? If it's TC warning pump is not making pressure. You have to depressurise system before you do initial bleed of master cylinder and front calipers. Only when all air is out on initial bleed do you switch ignition on to bleed boosters. If the pressure pump was left running dry you may have damaged it. Very poor maintenance to allow pad to get that far down.
If that much fluid went out the modulator may have pockets of air. It can be a real bar-steward if it ran dry. You must get every tiniest bubble out. Might take 5 litres of fluid.
I thought you bled the modulator first, then fronts, then rears with power then fronts with 2/3 pedal but as Wammers says, just follow RAVE.
Top up between every step or more regularly. The level drops more than it shows and then air gets in and you're back to square on. My reservoir is so dark I have to shine a powerful torch in from the side to see the level properly.
brake pad wear: sticky caliper? Carrier pins are cheap to replace.
I thought you bled the modulator first, then fronts, then rears with power then fronts with 2/3 pedal but as Wammers says, just follow RAVE.
Top up between every step or more regularly. The level drops more than it shows and then air gets in and you're back to square on. My reservoir is so dark I have to shine a powerful torch in from the side to see the level properly.
brake pad wear: sticky caliper? Carrier pins are cheap to replace.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Caliper pins were ok, but somehow outer side pad stuck n the story.
I followed the brake bleeding procedure in the main site- Rangerover.net which is simller to RAVE procedure.
Yes started with modulator, most bottom bleed point and continued.
Completed fronts n then rears. But at section 7 when opening the bleed point gives only a squirt of oil and then drips but no air coming out. So went ahead n completed all sections. Had trouble with section 19 as ABS pump runs non stop anyway continued remaining procedure.
Now brake functions with a hard pedal and the pump runs continously. Also, ABS and hand brake lights are always on.( of course the h/brake lever down). My thinking is the pump is full of air. I uunderstand the classic ABS pump has its own bleed point.
Your ideas are most welcome as our new year celebrations starts on 13 th April and I need the car , so badly.
Edit- also the pump is very noicy. When bleeding the rears i noted each wheel has enough braking power to so that i could not rotate the wheel by hand.
I followed the brake bleeding procedure in the main site- Rangerover.net which is simller to RAVE procedure.
Yes started with modulator, most bottom bleed point and continued.
Completed fronts n then rears. But at section 7 when opening the bleed point gives only a squirt of oil and then drips but no air coming out. So went ahead n completed all sections. Had trouble with section 19 as ABS pump runs non stop anyway continued remaining procedure.
Now brake functions with a hard pedal and the pump runs continously. Also, ABS and hand brake lights are always on.( of course the h/brake lever down). My thinking is the pump is full of air. I uunderstand the classic ABS pump has its own bleed point.
Your ideas are most welcome as our new year celebrations starts on 13 th April and I need the car , so badly.
Edit- also the pump is very noicy. When bleeding the rears i noted each wheel has enough braking power to so that i could not rotate the wheel by hand.
Last edited:
The rears cannot be bled properly without pressure if the pump runs all the time it is not getting fluid. Run it dry and you will knacker it be warned. Follow RAVE instructions to the letter.
See above. You have to follow RAVE and you have to get all air out, every tiniest bubble. When I did it I said I'd get 10 pumps out and if clear would say that was it. Inevitably on 8 or 9 a little bubble would escape and I'd think **** it and start counting again.
Do not run the pump more than 6 seconds at a time without resting for 6 seconds as per RAVE.
Do not run the pump more than 6 seconds at a time without resting for 6 seconds as per RAVE.
kapilamuni
Active Member
I was doing this procedure which is same as RAVE.
http://www.rangerovers.net/maintenance/brakebleed4.html
The accumulator is about 4yrs old.
When i did rears, initially lot of air came but after 5th/6th turn only clean oil.
If the pump can't build up pressure due to air in the system (rear wheels?) and the rears can't bleed without pump pressure is conflicting.
If air between pump to block then it must be the input hose, I guess.
Can I remove it and see? In that case, do i have to redo the whole process again?
First thing you bleed is the hydrostatic system for the front brakes. This is done with ignition turned off. System MUST be depressurised and ignition must NOT be turned on at any stage of this operation. You then follow instructions to bleed air out of the pressure pump circuit. Bleed the two upper bleeders on the booster. If the system has run dry you may need to follow this procedure carefully a couple of times to get all the air out of pressure circuits. If after removing all air from the system the pressure pump runs continuously and is noisy i would think you have destroyed it by running the system dry and it is incapable of making proper pressure.
Try again. Top up very regularly. Every 10 pushes of the pedal or after each 6 second burst of the ignition on. Don't underestimate how much fluid you need to shove through the power circuit. Push at least a litre through the modulator before you start on the brake lines. If it has gone dry it can be a total sod to get it all out.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Finally gave up on bleeding the brakes as everytime the pressure side gives out a squirt of oil then a no pressure flow. Hence, checked the pump output line n same symptoms. Then checked pump input hose and found that it has only few drops, no flow as such. Assuming its the reservoir filter, removed the reservoir for cleaning.
Let me see how it goes from there. In vain wasted about 3 ltrs of brake oil.
Let me see how it goes from there. In vain wasted about 3 ltrs of brake oil.
As far as i am aware there is no filter to the outlet for the pressure pump in the reservoir. Only filter is in the filler neck. However the feed pipe or inlet to the pump maybe blocked.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Then, is it possible to clear the blockage by inserting blunt rod or something in the outlet from the reservoir?
Also, how can i remove the filter in the filler neck? It appears possible to pull out but not coming out.
Also, how can i remove the filter in the filler neck? It appears possible to pull out but not coming out.
It clips in, small flat screwdriver used very carefully to ease it up. Take the rubber feed pipe off and have a look at both ends. There maybe an inlet filter at the pump end attached to the screw in union.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Thanks will see to it.
We are celebrating new year, here in Srilanka.
We are celebrating new year, here in Srilanka.
