griffman · Jun 16, 2015

3.5s do go through camshafts quite often

if it does need replacing pay the extra for a kent h180 - will go like a 3.9 with one of those in

we have just got Turners to do us one of their 3.6 litre specials

the original 3.5 low comp was from a 90 V8 and had done over 250000 miles

it was very well maintained however and could quite easily have been rebuilt as was

but we went for the overbore, new +20 hi-comp pistons, gas-flowed heads and a kent H180 cam

the best thing was we were able to keep the original block - which was very important to the client.

we also took the rotating assembly to race engineer Dave Martin at Swaymar Marine in Horsham to be dynamically balanced - including the new front Pulley, a flywheel and a nre AP Racing uprated clutch

What a sweetheart this thing is - revs sweetly and very quickly and makes loads of grunt -as can be seen by remarkable chassis lurch when revving

deano75 · Jun 20, 2015

78000

deano75 · Jun 20, 2015

norseman said:
a bit late in the discussion to ask perhaps deano, but what mileage has your rr done?

78000

deano75 · Jun 20, 2015

Hi guys,, once again thanks for all the help,, I have now been told it looks likely its the MAF,
I have a flapper MAF and been told they are scarcer than hens teeth. Can I convert to hotwire and is this straight forward??? Or should I look for a high bridge to leap off...

pete1987RRC · Jun 21, 2015

How was the AFM diagnosed?

There are companies around who will repair your unit for not much money otherwise get a replacement unit, there is still the bodd one on eBay.
Changing to hotwire is an option but a lot of work as you won't have cats or a stepper motor in the plenum

norseman · Jun 21, 2015

deano75 said:
Or should I look for a high bridge to leap off...

Not unless you've traded in in for a P38

Stick with it Deano, you'll be glad that you did when it's all sorted.

deano75 · Jun 28, 2015

Hi guys ,, I am still no further on with power problem.
Today I done a compression test on cold engine and got readings of 140 psi,,, 150 ,,, 140,,,140,,,120,,,115,,,135 and 140, all plugs except 2 were wet with petrol and had a lot of carbon soot on them.
The car is now misfiring and backfiring in exhaust but not huge loud bangs more like a popping cracking sound..
If I disconnect Mass air flow engine will tick over but will cut out when revved.
I also have a coolant leak behind dizzy cap somewhere..
I also noticed a brown plug about 18mm x 12mm on top of engine that is broken and wont connect with other side,, any one got a clue what this is??

I have just got a contact of a so called RRC specialist so heres hoping he can help, I am phoning him tomorrow,, I just want to know whats wrong, its the not knowing that is getting to me..

Thanks again for all the help guys,,

deano75 · Jun 28, 2015

pete1987RRC said:
How was the AFM diagnosed?

There are companies around who will repair your unit for not much money otherwise get a replacement unit, there is still the bodd one on eBay.
Changing to hotwire is an option but a lot of work as you won't have cats or a stepper motor in the plenum

Thanks Pete ,, my mate is an ex mechanic and pretty good but he cant take job on as he is taxi driver now, he reckons it is MAF not doing its job,, no MAFs on Ebay ,,I am scouring constantly,, there was 1 from a SD1 but was withdrawn after 2 hours lol and I missed it.. Any idea on what companies will repair them???

Thanks again Deano

norseman · Jun 29, 2015

deano75 said:
Hi guys ,, I am still no further on with power problem.
Today I done a compression test on cold engine and got readings of 140 psi,,, 150 ,,, 140,,,140,,,120,,,115,,,135 and 140

Did you do the test with the throttle wide open?
There is an un-acceptable variation in those readings esp those below 140 but it could just be valves not seating properly. Really 78k is nothing for the block, so it looks like you are looking at a top-end overhaul.

Gazbo · Jun 29, 2015

Compression variations could be due to worn cam lobes. Do a dial gauge lift test on all the rockers, compare with OEM specs.
My old RRC had two lobes run down to nearly perfect circles, but that was after 450,000 Klm, at that stage the 0-100 Klm/hr times were getting out to the mid 20's.

deano75 · Jun 29, 2015

norseman said:
Did you do the test with the throttle wide open?
There is an un-acceptable variation in those readings esp those below 140 but it could just be valves not seating properly. Really 78k is nothing for the block, so it looks like you are looking at a top-end overhaul.

Throttle was closed,,, is top end overhaul a huge job??? any ideas how much a local garage would charge??
Thanks

norseman · Jun 30, 2015

A day's work plus parts I should think. If previous owners have neglected the oil changes (likely considering the comp. readings) you are looking at a replacement camshaft as well. I suggest you repeat the test with a warm engine & make sure the throttle is wedged fully open. I've never been in a position to carry out major repairs myself but the garage bills over the years have taught me a lot! These engines are pretty well bullet-proof but they need a much stricter servicing regime than a modern car, a wise owner will halve the 6k oil & filter change recommended by LR.

deano75 · Jul 2, 2015

norseman said:
A day's work plus parts I should think. If previous owners have neglected the oil changes (likely considering the comp. readings) you are looking at a replacement camshaft as well. I suggest you repeat the test with a warm engine & make sure the throttle is wedged fully open. I've never been in a position to carry out major repairs myself but the garage bills over the years have taught me a lot! These engines are pretty well bullet-proof but they need a much stricter servicing regime than a modern car, a wise owner will halve the 6k oil & filter change recommended by LR.

Thanks,, it is in a garage over the weekend , mechanic is going to do another compression test and look into it further,, its starting to **** me off,, but hey I did buy a 28 year old car,, I will get there eventually,, I am meant to be taking it to a car show on 12th july but aint looking likely..

ukadamwest · Jul 2, 2015

deano75 said:
Throttle was closed,,, is top end overhaul a huge job??? any ideas how much a local garage would charge??
Thanks

No not difficult at all. complete composite head gasket set is about £55 inc all gaskets you will need., if you take your time, you can do both heads in a weekend.

disconnect battery, drain coolant .. belts off, alternator off, intake off, plenum chamber off, manifolds off (this is where the pain will be so order up new manifold downpipe studs and bolts too you'll most likely end up cutting the nuts off), bracket for the alternator off (use an impact driver that hex head screw is easily rounded off - ask me how i know), rocker covers offm bolts out, you're about there..

putting it back together follow the torque down process, do them up lightly at first then work your way around gradually increasing the torque. leave overnight, check torques again next day, back together, refill coolant reconnect battery and bob's your auntie. open a can of your poison stand back and feel good.

NB make sure you have both metric and imperial sockets oh and you'll probably need a deep set star socket to get the rocker covers off (halfords do one)

norseman · Jul 3, 2015

deano75 said:
but hey I did buy a 28 year old car,, I will get there eventually,, I am meant to be taking it to a car show on 12th july but aint looking likely..

Nothing wrong with a 28 year-old car, I've owned mine for seven years & used to own vehicles built during the 1940's - what matters is how they have been maintained.

ukadamwest · Jul 3, 2015

norseman said:
Nothing wrong with a 28 year-old car, I've owned mine for seven years & used to own vehicles built during the 1940's - what matters is how they have been maintained.

Nothing wrong with a 28 year old wife either..

deano75 · Jul 5, 2015

ukadamwest said:
No not difficult at all. complete composite head gasket set is about £55 inc all gaskets you will need., if you take your time, you can do both heads in a weekend.

disconnect battery, drain coolant .. belts off, alternator off, intake off, plenum chamber off, manifolds off (this is where the pain will be so order up new manifold downpipe studs and bolts too you'll most likely end up cutting the nuts off), bracket for the alternator off (use an impact driver that hex head screw is easily rounded off - ask me how i know), rocker covers offm bolts out, you're about there..

putting it back together follow the torque down process, do them up lightly at first then work your way around gradually increasing the torque. leave overnight, check torques again next day, back together, refill coolant reconnect battery and bob's your auntie. open a can of your poison stand back and feel good.

NB make sure you have both metric and imperial sockets oh and you'll probably need a deep set star socket to get the rocker covers off (halfords do one)

MAGNIFICENT,,, thank you

ukadamwest · Jul 5, 2015

No problem.

I took a bit longer as i cleaned everything before it went back on.

tnseal · Jul 5, 2015

Looking at the clean engine bay and the shine. He has used a spray on the engine etc. I wonder if the sports air filter is clogged with a engine vanish. I think you can wash that type out and redo them with the K&N special oil. I have a diesel and since the tank pump was replaced I have gained power and economy 2.5mpg. Is the fuel pump making a loud buzz ? When they start to go they get noisy, sounds like a hive of bees in a tin can.

The Mad Hat Man · Jul 5, 2015

tnseal said:
I wonder if the sports air filter is clogged with a engine vanish

- thats a bit of a bugger

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