SteveClv

Active Member
I wish I hadn't :)

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Oh dear, I've got one of those they are great on things like swivel housings and front radius arms, but they are pretty aggressive.
But then again I think you don't need to hear that.
 
Yes, I'm going to wimp out - I don't want to drop the fuel tank and welding that close to the tank even with a shield in place needs a careful hand :)
 
Ugh... mine seems in pretty good nick but with surface rust. I was poking about under there this afternoon. I was thinking of cleaning off the rust and waxoyling it. Seeing yours, i might clean off the rust with a dry lettuce leaf....
 
Oh poo. A case of 'what the eye doesn't see, the heart won't grieve for'. But, as BB said, better to know now.
 
The problem was that they looked ok until I hit it with the gun - then you can see what was hidden. As blue beasty said, better to know what's actually metal and what's rust+underseal.
 
I want to remove the 'surface' rust from ours this year and treat with Por15 or similar. How big a job is it to remove the tank?
 
Surprised it works so well on the gay compressor...

MOT man can't be that aggressive so the Tin worms get lots of feed before he finds them so if you want the truck long tern I would investigate further as them tin worms are keen buggers And turn up all over, you may find the fearsome fuel tank is about to land on the drive like Nutons apple.
Then man up and get the welder going, it ain't that hard and the welding burns on chest don't last so long
 
lol use em a bit at work health n safety says we can only use em 25 min in every shift same with most air angle grinders impact wrenches ect
but there fun to use
 
Getting done this week - I checked inside and 3 sides of the chassis are very solid - just the bottom that rotted - so still has plenty of strength left but as I said, getting done this week.

I was tempted just to go straight for a galvanised rear chassis but at £360 + £400 to have installed it will have to wait.
 

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