Yanick

Yanick

New Member
Any tips regarding the bottom engine shield ?

Ideally I would like to be able to remove it myself.

$350 every 5000km's for an oil change? I think bloodywell not !!

Down to the problem.
Fuking rivets ! WTF ? Whats the point with that ? I've started drilling out the bottom rear 4. But now, theres another 4 fixing the front of the tray to the frame of the car. . . WTF? x 2 ! I'd like to drill these out as well. . . replacing with screws.

Any tips on how to succesfully remove the rivets that fix the Bottom Engine Sheild to the front car frame ?

1. I do not want to cut / because ideally, id like to remove the tray for other 'potential' problems.

2. I don't want any new hinged designs, as intuitive as they are.


Cheers ladies.
 
Thanks for the info.

Looking at the front rivets. They look quite hard to get at, let alone succeed in drilling them out. Thats also if I'm counting 4, for all I know there are 6 ! I have a few plans in mind. lets see which you guys think is best.

Plan A. Router a cut right setback say 10cm the front of the guard, and drill some stitching holes for cable ties. This would mean the guard is cable tied on, and I can cut/renew the cable ties for every oil change. (I really wanted to Avoid cuts - on resale it looks a bit dodgy) Problem though is that 10cm setback from front of guard might not even give me enough room to get into the oil filter. . .

Plan B. Drill out all 4 front Rivets replacing with screws

plan C. Cut the sleeves of the guard which extend to the rivets. I think plan c is easiest because i can still slip the guad back in with the unfixed part of the guard. (but again that is cutting) hmmm. . ..
 
PLan D. . .

Spray ****ing Gaylanders across my panels, and take it out bush for a thrashin !
 
dont drill the rivets out...

there is some 10mm bolts down either side to remove the guard.

the rivets hold the plate to the frame!!
 
I've removed the 10mm bolts, but only at the rear of the guard (there are two). Rivets are still holding the front of the plate in place, keeping $350 in Bruce Lynton Landrovers pocket and me well away from the oil filter.

The current idea is to do away with these rivets and replace with self tapping screws . . .So, is there a problem with removing these rivets ?

Alternatively I can remove the wheel side engine plates, , but then I'd have to be inspector gadget or a member of the bionic 5, or Mr Tickle to get the oil filter off. . . Some have told me oil filter is passenger side, when to me it appears to be in the centre.

A friend told me Roller's do this as well to keep custmers loyal to the yard for a lube service.



andytd4auto said:
dont drill the rivets out...

there is some 10mm bolts down either side to remove the guard.

the rivets hold the plate to the frame!!
Click to expand...
 
There is absolutely no need to drill any of the rivets out to remove the sump plate. I see you have the back bolts out so take the two bolts out at the front up through the plate and remove the two self tappers holding the plastic grill to it and its off. When you have it of cut a hole around a 100/150m/m below the drain for future oil changes. By the way, always use a torque wrench to replace the drain plug as it is a steel plug into the alloy sump, and can be stripped very easily

PS, Do you think Bruce Lynton drills the rivets out or has some magic way of doing it without the sump plate off.
 
REv: Thats great info mate ! I'll check it out in the morn and let you know how it goes. . .


I'm certain Bruce Lynton do it the best way possible. . but then again. .They have just increased their labour costs. . .I've had services with bruce Lynton before, and if you have the cash ready I highly recomend them.

Of, the 4 rivets I drilled out I don't see how they could have been removed any other way. . .the two bolts at the back were easy, then two at each side were plain rivets fixed to the bracket, and thos brackets were rivited to the frame. . .???

Saying that I know Rolls Royce use to rivet their bottom plates on to make things harder for Joe Blow.


REVVER said:
There is absolutely no need to drill any of the rivets out to remove the sump plate. I see you have the back bolts out so take the two bolts out at the front up through the plate and remove the two self tappers holding the plastic grill to it and its off. When you have it of cut a hole around a 100/150m/m below the drain for future oil changes. By the way, always use a torque wrench to replace the drain plug as it is a steel plug into the alloy sump, and can be stripped very easily

PS, Do you think Bruce Lynton drills the rivets out or has some magic way of doing it without the sump plate off.
Click to expand...
 
undertray.jpg


have a look at this. all the 13mm bolts are on the alloy frame of the undertray. the rivets just hold the plastic tray to the frame.
 
Yanick.
Sorry, its a few years since I took mine off and modded it for an easy oil change. There are an additional two self tap screws at the front of the guard on either side which hold the flappy bits on it too the bumper. You will also need to take out the other four 13m/m bolts in addition to the two 10m/m ones you have already taken out at the back of the guard, these ones are at 90% to the guard. The bolts are all shown on Garyrigdens drawing, allthough I think there are only two 13m/m bolts at the front plus six self tap screws. This unit comes off without drilling rivets out, I've done it, but it is a large unit, thats why people start thinking about drilling out rivets. We'll get there, let us know how your doing.
 
Yep!

Follow the above diargam !! Worked a charm ! Infact, is probably the easiest oil change I've ever suceeded on a car. Oil filter screwed right off, from a very easy and accessible position. Once you know how to take the bottom tray off properly ! (Without drilling out rivets or cutting holes) Job takes a little less that an hour to complete. I will be doing this every 5000km myself from now on.

Again mine takes a synthetic oil / preferably one that is for prestige 4 cyclinders, or sports 4's.
 
You change oil every 5 000km? My manual says every 20 000km with the synthetic oil (Castrol Magnetec)? I have a 2000 Xedi. Services done by Landrover agents every 20 000km as per scheduke in service book. I can understand a shorter interval under extreme conditions... but have been a bit concerned about 20 000km, although this is what the service manual and Landrover agents say. What is the general feeling on how often an oil change is required?
 
You change oil every 5 000km?:confused: My manual says every 20 000km with synthetic oil (Castrol Magnetec)? I have a 2000 Xedi. Services done by Landrover agents every 20 000km as per schedule in service book. I can understand a shorter interval under extreme conditions... but have been a bit concerned about 20 000km, although this is what the service manual and Landrover agents say. What is the general feeling on how often an oil change is required?:confused:
 
A few weeks ago clutchdust suggested removing ONLY the two rear bolts then springing the shield down to access the plug. Make a chute for the oil to run down to keep the oil off the shield.
Obviously only any good for TD4's.
Bear in mind that removing the shield is harder on an 04 and later car as the front bolts are obscured by the front fairing.
If you use the clutchdust method please post result.
 
The clutchdust method is only suitable for the Td4.

The 1.8 has its oil plug and filter at the front of the tray.

There are slight differences on the later models. Later type have rivets on the side panels

I did away with the self tappers on the valance, push out the plastic lug and fit an M6 coach bolt cut to the correct size, along with 10mm cap nut to finish it off neatly

The square flange on the coach bolt should fit the square hole where the lug was.

All you need after that is 17mm and 10mm rachet spanners...........easy;)

Ming has wing nuts on his
 
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