Datatek
Well-Known Member
The P38 boot release button does not give a lot of trouble, the main problem is the spring rusting away. But if they do fail, a replacement is expensive.
I have replaced the button with the following part from CPC :- SWO4290, this is a black one but other colours are available. It is water and ice proof and is rated for -40C to +80C.
It is necessary to remove the trim for access, 3 quarter turn plastic fastners under the spring loaded plastic trim flap.
Then it's 2 bolts and the connector to remove the button assembly.
With the button assembly out, from the back a twist is needed to release the inner part.
You now have the empty plastic mounting tube.
Now for the new switch. Leave the backing nut in place and solder wires to the 2 outer tags, it is now ready to put into the mounting tube.
The new switch is a loose (but not too loose) fit in the tube, drop it into place and you can see that it looks pretty near a perfect fit. (see photo's)
Now you have to fix the switch in place, I used a hot glue gun as the glue stays soft long enough to postion the switch exactly and it sets quickly enough that you are not standing there all day. Use plenty of glue. The hot glue has the advantage that it can be melted out if the need arises.
You can now refit the assembly to the car and connect to the wiring loom. I had a spare connector for this, but you can cut the connector off the old button and solder it to the wires you attached to the new switch. Protect the joints with heat shrink tube if possible, or insulate carefully with tape.
Check it works, refit the trim, Job done.
I have replaced the button with the following part from CPC :- SWO4290, this is a black one but other colours are available. It is water and ice proof and is rated for -40C to +80C.
It is necessary to remove the trim for access, 3 quarter turn plastic fastners under the spring loaded plastic trim flap.
Then it's 2 bolts and the connector to remove the button assembly.
With the button assembly out, from the back a twist is needed to release the inner part.
You now have the empty plastic mounting tube.
Now for the new switch. Leave the backing nut in place and solder wires to the 2 outer tags, it is now ready to put into the mounting tube.
The new switch is a loose (but not too loose) fit in the tube, drop it into place and you can see that it looks pretty near a perfect fit. (see photo's)
Now you have to fix the switch in place, I used a hot glue gun as the glue stays soft long enough to postion the switch exactly and it sets quickly enough that you are not standing there all day. Use plenty of glue. The hot glue has the advantage that it can be melted out if the need arises.
You can now refit the assembly to the car and connect to the wiring loom. I had a spare connector for this, but you can cut the connector off the old button and solder it to the wires you attached to the new switch. Protect the joints with heat shrink tube if possible, or insulate carefully with tape.
Check it works, refit the trim, Job done.
