Your traction engine ? YOUR TRACTION ENGINE ? What are you sodding about with discos for when you have the king of the road right there ? Chelsea tractor? Thats a chelsea road,Easton,tractor you got mate....never have to worry about a parking space again....just park on top of someone else!
 
shocker said:
Your traction engine ? YOUR TRACTION ENGINE ? What are you sodding about with discos for when you have the king of the road right there ? Chelsea tractor? Thats a chelsea road,Easton,tractor you got mate....never have to worry about a parking space again....just park on top of someone else!
Click to expand...


Ah if only, one day maybe. My one is only a small one (ooh err missus) she's a half-scale model, about 5' tall and 8' long, ok to drive on road but really only short distances.

I would LOVE a full size one parked outside the house, that would really chuff the neighbours:eek:

The landy comes in at second place for fun though so i got it covered:)
 
Dave,I was thinking Bristol when I wrote that.....chelsea rd is notoriously solidly parked and the moving cars contain people who stop to talk to their mates every 25yds.......

.....so substitute Pig Lane,or Hockerill traffic lights maybe........

(sorry if we're boring you graham :rolleyes::D:D:D)
 
He he, no worries :)

I do find stoking her up on a sunny afternoon, spark up the BBQ and opening a few beers to be very relaxing, cant beat the smell of a steam engine:)

Anyways, i got the rest of my subframe welded up and trial-fitted, it slots in perfectly. Gave it a slap of hammerite, then treated the bare rust patches with some goop i got at the motor factors.

Hopefully tomorrow, i'll be able to brush down the chassis and slap some hammerite on the visible bits, then at the weekend get her all fixed back together again 'cos i'm sure missing driving her :(


I have a few small welds to do on the car - the brake pipe support being one, i'm mig welding but do i need to worry about the car electrics or not????
 
Last edited:
About the car electrics?Absolutely ! AT LEAST disconnect the battery.Some say the alternator instead or even also.I welded in the floor of a 95 300 auto ES model with ALL the bells and whistles and that was fine with just the battery off.
 
shocker said:
Dave,I was thinking Bristol when I wrote that.....chelsea rd is notoriously solidly parked and the moving cars contain people who stop to talk to their mates every 25yds.......

.....so substitute Pig Lane,or Hockerill traffic lights maybe........

(sorry if we're boring you graham :rolleyes::D:D:D)
Click to expand...

It's okay you've woken me up with all this talk of bristols!!! :D :D :D
 
Definitely give the chassis and all reachable metal a good belting with a hammer and some wire brush cup action - what looks and feels solid may be more like a bag of crisps in reality ! And give it all a good slap around with paint or sealant of some kind at least - even bitumous waterproof paint if pushed for cash,its under a tenner for a gallon ! Also take the oportunity to give the underside of the floor panel a good coating before it goes in cos you will never reach it all round the fuel tank once its in.I tend to get an extra cross member and put it under the loadspace in place of that stupid flat strap,thats where all the weights going to be,right?

Im surprised your MOT bloke is letting rivets pass.Ive been reading the MOT handbook recently and it (if I remember right) ties up with what the last tester of a floor replacement of mine said - that the replacement of a whole panel should be fixed in a similar way to the manufacturers method.He let me go with puddle welds on the cross members and stitching around the outside,2" of weld,1" gap on the grounds that it was more welding than the original spots.

see this.....

m4x0c000002

....and next page....

m4x0c000003

for wording.Heres the link for the whole site with the testers instructions and criteria....

MOT Documentation Contents Page
 
Its all moved on while you was a'kip Graham ! Its all electric bristols and links to MOT porn now mate !!:eek:

:D:D:D
 
Thanks for that Shocker, interesting.

I can still read it as though a bonded & rivetted joint is ok though, as usual its not totally black and white :( I did notice this part though...

"It is accepted that it is sometimes difficult to identify the repair method after the repair has been covered in paint or underseal. If the method of repair is in doubt the tester should pass and advise."

I still belive a properly bonded and rivetted joint is as good as the tiny spotwelds that i pulled apart with a screwdriver when stripping out!

I do have another test centre near work, i might stroll in there for a chat tomorrow.

I have three formed cross-bars now and no thin straps! I just need to sort out the chassis support pads and get the painting done, i'm definately slapping some goop on the bottom of the new floor though or it'll be gone by next year knowing my luck:)

Its looking a lot more encouraging now than it did when i was stripping it, concerned was an understatement ;)
 
Well i had two chats today, one seemed okay with adhesive / rivets but would prefer welds as most people dont put enough rivets in, but the other "landrover expert" started spouting off about the floor being structural and within 30cm of chassis mounts and a supposed braking bias unit that "will be fitted to the floor" so it must be fully seam welded, nothing else acceptable.

Now even i know thats bollox and the floor is not structural, its not even connected to the chassis!, its connected to the rear outer floor & mid-way cross panel. I dont have a brake bias lever/unit.

Would i be wrong in thinking that with the way the rear is constructed, it does not matter (structurally) if it even HAS a boot floor fitted??? Be a bit draughty without one though :)

I guess i know who won't be doing my test then ;)

Dave.
 
Got a few pics coming but the sub-frame and floor are fitted. Set on a good bead of adhesive and all looks good, no rust inside now at all.

Tomorrow i hope to get out and put some sealant around underneath and give the whole rear section a good coat of hammerite to finish her off inside.

Of course i still have the damn leaky roof joint to fix :(
 
Here we go...

Subframe goes in...
DSCN1587.JPG


New floor going in...
DSCN1588.JPG


All finished and painted...
DSCN1590.JPG


So thats it, it feels nice and solid, no rattles or holes anymore:) Its fully sealed underneath too, just got to get the seats back in now and find the damn leak that caused it all. Went for a test drive, two weeks without a start and she fired up first time:) little bit smokey so i'm guessing valve stem seals maybe, but it soon cleared and she was off again, it even sounded more solid when driving it.

Hopefully that will get us through the winter without much trouble now.

Dave
 
davek0974 said:
Here we go...

Subframe goes in...


New floor going in...


All finished and painted...


So thats it, it feels nice and solid, no rattles or holes anymore:) Its fully sealed underneath too, just got to get the seats back in now and find the damn leak that caused it all. Went for a test drive, two weeks without a start and she fired up first time:) little bit smokey so i'm guessing valve stem seals maybe, but it soon cleared and she was off again, it even sounded more solid when driving it.

Hopefully that will get us through the winter without much trouble now.

Dave
Click to expand...


Excellent job Dave, well done.

Bet you're feeling pretty pleased now Huh?

Cheers
Dave
 
Last edited:
thebiglad said:
Excellent job Dave, well done.

Bet you're feeling pretty pleased now Huh?

Cheers
Dave
Click to expand...


As it happens, Yes:)

I feel chuffed every time i do a successful job on her, the wife reckons she can see it in my face:D, its one of the reasons i love landy's - you can fix them yourself. I would not even attempt a floor replacement in the Mondeo, specially as its one of those new-fangled monocoque shells, give me a chassis any day;).

Of course its not always good, but so far there has always been light at the end of tunnel on every job, its like an upside down rollercoaster -you start at the top, then the job goes T/U, then you fix it and end up back on top again.

Dave
 
hi dave - did you ever find a somewhere for replacement rubber bits under the cross supports ?

thanks

Andrew
 
andii88 said:
hi dave - did you ever find a somewhere for replacement rubber bits under the cross supports ?

thanks

Andrew
Click to expand...

No, in the end I welded on some steel pads and then stuck some strips of old timing belt to them with sikaflex. The belts are pretty tough stuff and they were still there last week when I was poking around under there :D

I have since painted all the rear now and filled some drilled holes, no idea what they were for but they are gone now.

Almost got rid of the water leaks too :eek:
 
Thanks Dave - will copy re the rubber bits lol. Floor in this afternoon I hope ! And I agree with you over pre drilled holes - everything seems to have holes filled with bungs that leak : these are being filled in once and for all !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

dag019
Fitting YRM extended second row floor upstand
Replies
14
Views
661
dag019
dag019
D
2010 90 Fuel Tank Guard Refit
Replies
12
Views
406
DefenderKeith
D
baldygit
Clutch Fitting Series 3
Replies
4
Views
529
norseman
norseman
Sieklo
Disco 2 D2 TD5 Auto high fuel consumption
Replies
8
Views
501
sierrafery
sierrafery
S
Disco 1 Disco 1 Rust repair prep
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
sv_dOnut
S