EntropyUK said:
Just an update. Got round to looking at it today . So tried the release button as I have almost everytime I have driven since the release failed. Guess what, it decided to work. WTF! The plug to the loom looked brand new inside so didn't do anything to it. All I did was spray Plus Gas into the release button whilst depressed so to flush out any nasties. When pressing the release you could hear the switch engaging so hope this is it for trouble with it but who knows.
Click to expand...
The last one I had that was like that, it was the micro switch in the drivers door playing up not the boot switch.
You cannot get switch cleaner into the boot button micro switch unless you take the button assembly apart.
 
Datatek said:
The last one I had that was like that, it was the micro switch in the drivers door playing up not the boot switch.
You cannot get switch cleaner into the boot button micro switch unless you take the button assembly apart.
Click to expand...

If the CDL switch was faulty none of the other doors would lock or unlock with key or fob. He says his central locking works and fuse 15 functions are active so it has to be the push button at fault.
 
wammers said:
If the CDL switch was faulty none of the other doors would lock or unlock with key or fob. He says his central locking works and fuse 15 functions are active so it has to be the push button at fault.
Click to expand...
That was not the case on mine, the central locking worked but just occasionally the boot button would not operate.
 
Datatek said:
That was not the case on mine, the central locking worked but just occasionally the boot button would not operate.
Click to expand...

I think that boot button draws a lot more current than the door actuators that only have to spin those tiny little motors.
 
When my boot latch stopped work it behaved similarly to this, the switch was fine, but the actuator was failing, sometimes driving would loosen it up enough to operate, othertimes nothing, taking it apart and cleaning/regreasing gained me about 3 months of "fixed" until it did it again.

Been 2 years since I changed the part and no problems since, worth noting if you do change the actuator, there are 2 types of actuator, I don't know when the crossover was, but I assumed when BMW gave the electrics and sprouse up. The connectors and mounting brackets are different between both types, so make sure you get the right one.

[Edit: And Land Rover Dealers don't carry the part anymore, I think it was a legacy thing from Rover since the part numbers match a the part for a Rover 75, but not quiet the same (could buy one to cannibalize maybe). The Dealers told me to check eBay]
 
Last edited:
Bix said:
When my boot latch stopped work it behaved similarly to this, the switch was fine, but the actuator was failing, sometimes driving would loosen it up enough to operate, othertimes nothing, taking it apart and cleaning/regreasing gained me about 3 months of "fixed" until it did it again.

Been 2 years since I changed the part and no problems since, worth noting if you do change the actuator, there are 2 types of actuator, I don't know when the crossover was, but I assumed when BMW gave the electrics and sprouse up. The connectors and mounting brackets are different between both types, so make sure you get the right one.
Click to expand...

The first press of the push button opens the top gate latch. The top gate latch then provides a circuit to the lower tailgate actuator. A second push of the button opens the lower gate. Latches and actuators were upgraded over time and the early ones became unavailable. So the later ones should fit all vehicles.
 
wammers said:
The first press of the push button opens the top gate latch. The top gate latch then provides a circuit to the lower tailgate actuator. A second push of the button opens the lower gate. Latches and actuators were upgraded over time and the early ones became unavailable. So the later ones should fit all vehicles.
Click to expand...
I understand how it functions, but I was just putting in my experience with a failing actuator which behaved like a failing button, and although they "should fit" they don't. I almost got the wrong kind from a guy who was breaking a P38, but luckily I had mine out, not sure which was old or new, but they didn't marry up and I couldn't be arsed to bodge them together.
 
For what it is the push button is an astronomical price. But making a new stainless spring is easy and O'rings and a little rubber grease cost little, providing the micro switch is sound it is possible to refurb and seal for little money.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
When the main stealer is telling you to go to eBay....:confused:

I dont think they liked you, should’ve worn your suit :D
Click to expand...
To be fair, the guy is good, I've been on the phone with him for a time while he tried to find a part in the system, before he'd ask if I minded a second hand part, with that he texted me the eBay link. Maybe he was breaking his own vehicles (all of those PX'd for something newer perhaps?) and it was a side earner for him, but I was happy with it.
 
Bix said:
I understand how it functions, but I was just putting in my experience with a failing actuator which behaved like a failing button, and although they "should fit" they don't. I almost got the wrong kind from a guy who was breaking a P38, but luckily I had mine out, not sure which was old or new, but they didn't marry up and I couldn't be arsed to bodge them together.
Click to expand...

Failing actuator or failing latch? If the latch works but fails to make the actuator circuit the actuator maybe fine but not being supplied with a ground.
 
wammers said:
Failing actuator or failing latch? If the latch works but fails to make the actuator circuit the actuator maybe fine but not being supplied with a ground.
Click to expand...
I believe it was the little contact points on the motor, they press against the housing when assembled, but have nothing that holds them in place, I tried putting a strip of thick double sided tape behind the motor hoping it'd make better contact but it just didn't seem to do the trick. Still only a half arsed attempt at motion.
 
Thanks everyone your input is much appreciated as I know where to start looking when it happens again. I do think my car has a mind of its own and threatening it with a "dam good thrashing" often helps.
 
wammers said:
The first press of the push button opens the top gate latch. The top gate latch then provides a circuit to the lower tailgate actuator. A second push of the button opens the lower gate. Latches and actuators were upgraded over time and the early ones became unavailable. So the later ones should fit all vehicles.
Click to expand...
I've only seen one actuator and what I thought was a toggle mechanism that changed from upper hatch to lower hatch release?
 
Bix said:
When my boot latch stopped work it behaved similarly to this, the switch was fine, but the actuator was failing, sometimes driving would loosen it up enough to operate, othertimes nothing, taking it apart and cleaning/regreasing gained me about 3 months of "fixed" until it did it again.

Been 2 years since I changed the part and no problems since, worth noting if you do change the actuator, there are 2 types of actuator, I don't know when the crossover was, but I assumed when BMW gave the electrics and sprouse up. The connectors and mounting brackets are different between both types, so make sure you get the right one.

[Edit: And Land Rover Dealers don't carry the part anymore, I think it was a legacy thing from Rover since the part numbers match a the part for a Rover 75, but not quiet the same (could buy one to cannibalize maybe). The Dealers told me to check eBay]
Click to expand...
On my cars, MY 95 and MY 99 are the same. I know this because I fitted the latch assembly from my 95 to the 99 as the 99 latch was fecked.
 
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