Shogun243
Member
It transpires that my multimeter no longer...meters. shows 00 regardless of what leads I use on a reliable 12v source. I recall it being difficult on the last job I used it for at work.
Will pop to halfrauds for one ASAP!
Will pop to halfrauds for one ASAP!
Shogun243
Member
Hey folks, quick update:
I'm afraid I've still not sourced a multimeter, however I have this evening installed a replacement injector loom and associated gasket.
The truck started and drove nicely, then round the corner we started losing power again. Drove about a mile, mostly gently and it was touch and go whether it'd make it back to the drive - lost all go and started farting and popping when trying to get some power.
Turbo and manifold were absolutely stinking hot again despite short drive.
The fuel pump is my next candidate, ordering a multimeter this evening!
I'm afraid I've still not sourced a multimeter, however I have this evening installed a replacement injector loom and associated gasket.
The truck started and drove nicely, then round the corner we started losing power again. Drove about a mile, mostly gently and it was touch and go whether it'd make it back to the drive - lost all go and started farting and popping when trying to get some power.
Turbo and manifold were absolutely stinking hot again despite short drive.
The fuel pump is my next candidate, ordering a multimeter this evening!
Is there an oil feed problem, to the turbo?
Shogun243
Member
I sincerely hope not! Any way to tell?
I think I may have been over-egging the pudding there. If there was no oil to the turbo, it's bearings would be nearly non-existent and it would fry. But it is still interesting that it gets so hot so quickly.
Shogun243
Member
My shaky knowledge of fuel/air mix says too little fuel too much air = high EGT but I'm not sure.
Have just realised that throughout this ordeal there hasn't been a single light on the dash also!
Multimeter should arrive today so should be able to confirm fuel pump draw once it does.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
It's the other way around, too much fuel/lack of air = high EGT hence the superchargers are improving things, also if it's low boost for some management issue or other reason the EGT gets higher... the MAP sensor is quite suspect on your's at this point but i dont like guessing or parts darts games
Shogun243
Member
Finally got a multimeter and measured 17.5mV across fuse F10 - this is below the 23mV quoted as healthy but not 10mV, this cause for concern?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
That's in the "grey zone" in which case only measuring the real pressure at the FPR would be relevant
BIGrabbit100
Member
Yeah bad annoying fault ...needs cleaning every year. Even heat shrink, amalgamation tape or silicone hasn't stopped the oil getting in. I use brake or carby cleaner and air. Spray lots of cleaner then blow through with air and more cleaner and air. I was told cotton wool at either end of harness and a few drops of super glue apparently it seals the ends. I have never tried but sounds like a good idea.
BIGrabbit100
Member
Take air pipe off turbo then when it's idling spray wd40 in the turbo. Listen for bearing noise.rev it up and spray. 17mv would still run without loss unless intermittent. Try multi meter at idle and reved up to 2,000rpm. Before turbo winds up, and then holding it at higher revs and test for fluctuation on multi meter. If it drops then start tracing wires. Could cat be blocked. Blocked cat will heat it up and run bad when driving but ok at idle.
Shogun243
Member
Thanks - I'll try the fluctuation. Voltage on battery at idle is 12.3 so the alternator has also left the chat, i found out today!
BIGrabbit100
Member
I find anything to do with loss of power regarding the battery causes other things to act up. So battery terminal, battery, alternator. Running like a wild animal when full charge power is corrected. I have found from experience.
