Landy_Ben · Oct 5, 2019

So decided that as well as replacing the headlamps I would add a Boomslang.

All seemed to be going well - got it fixed on headlamps. Found a couple of places to earth it and ran cable to back of alternator. Tried it and the headlamps worked. Then to route the wires better I decided to take it back off the back of the alternator - at that point the spanner slipped a bit and I got a spark - yes I know I should have disconnected the battery!!!!

So post this the headlights did not work anymore. Checked the inline fuse in Boomslang and it isn't blown. Reconnected headlamps to old wiring and they all work as expected.

So a little confused as to what might have blown any ideas?

Also quick question what earthing points are you using? I used a couple of bolts holding engine bay items on.

Also what's best route to run cable to alternator what are you fixing it to?

TIA.

lynall · Oct 5, 2019

Isnt there two fuses in the boomslang loom?

If not the only other thing is the relays in the loom.

Landy_Ben · Oct 5, 2019

I can only see one fuse... I'll check the relays thanks

frog hopper · Oct 5, 2019

When I did my home made one I ran cables back to the battery for the live feeds and the earth.

Landy_Ben · Oct 6, 2019

frog hopper said:
When I did my home made one I ran cables back to the battery for the live feeds and the earth.

Yep I guess that’s ideal if you are starting from scratch. But the pre made loom must have a concept of where it should earth.

Al2O3 · Oct 6, 2019

frog hopper said:
When I did my home made one I ran cables back to the battery for the live feeds and the earth.

Me two.

lynall · Oct 7, 2019

I just picked up power off a spare positive stud on the alt and the earth from the nearest easy to get to bolt

TorsionBhudda · Oct 7, 2019

I ran the positive back to battery(think had to extend cable) And used the earth original wiring goes to under the wing.

Landy_Ben · Oct 7, 2019

lynall said:
I just picked up power off a spare positive stud on the alt and the earth from the nearest easy to get to bolt

Sounds like I did similar drivers side I chose the bonnet stay bolt and passenger the power steering bolt.

Landy_Ben · Oct 7, 2019

TorsionBhudda said:
I ran the positive back to battery(think had to extend cable) And used the earth original wiring goes to under the wing.

Did you have to take wing liner off?

So it sounds like I’ve probably fried the relay.

lynall · Oct 7, 2019

Landy_Ben said:
Did you have to take wing liner off?

So it sounds like I’ve probably fried the relay.

Naah as simple as possible is my theory on just about everything., I had to extend the wire from the positive stud on the alternator then followed the natural cable/pipe run and joined up to the boomslang fuse holder.

discomania · Oct 7, 2019

Landy_Ben said:
So decided that as well as replacing the headlamps I would add a Boomslang.

All seemed to be going well - got it fixed on headlamps. Found a couple of places to earth it and ran cable to back of alternator. Tried it and the headlamps worked. Then to route the wires better I decided to take it back off the back of the alternator - at that point the spanner slipped a bit and I got a spark - yes I know I should have disconnected the battery!!!!

So post this the headlights did not work anymore. Checked the inline fuse in Boomslang and it isn't blown. Reconnected headlamps to old wiring and they all work as expected.

So a little confused as to what might have blown any ideas?

Also quick question what earthing points are you using? I used a couple of bolts holding engine bay items on.

Also what's best route to run cable to alternator what are you fixing it to?

TIA.

Not sure which landy you have but if later model, did you blow the alternator fuseable link? Do the rest of the electrical systems still work as normal?

Landy_Ben · Oct 7, 2019

discomania said:
Where are you taking your feed from - did you blow the alternator fuseable link? Do the rest of the electrical systems still work as normal?

I was taking it from the bolt on back of alternator that has a brown wire running off it already. It is secured with 10mm nut.
Where is the fuseable link?

zeaphod · Oct 7, 2019

I have a chassis to engine earth strap below the turbo that I use (on the chassis side) for extra earths. Took my battery from the alternator - it's looped from there to the starter and battery in the main loom. IIRC there's a fuse near the alternator side and one at the relays - on my loom anyway.

TorsionBhudda · Oct 7, 2019

Landy_Ben said:
Did you have to take wing liner off?

So it sounds like I’ve probably fried the relay.

No you can get to the bolt with everything in place.

dag019 · Oct 7, 2019

I extended the boomslang loom to go back to the battery for the earths. Quick bit of soldering and some heatshrink. With the problem of not working I would second the above and check you still hvae power at the alternator stud. if you do then the relays are the only thing left.

Landy_Ben · Oct 7, 2019

Thanks. If I don’t have power there what is likely to have blown?

The headlights still work without the loom.

discomania · Oct 7, 2019

Landy_Ben said:
I was taking it from the bolt on back of alternator that has a brown wire running off it already. It is secured with 10mm nut.
Where is the fuseable link?

Do you have a multi-meter - is this stud still live?

It depends what Defender year you have. TD5 under drivers seat. Not sure where on a 300TDI - but I seem to remember it was next to the coolant reservoir.

Landy_Ben · Oct 7, 2019

Hi I do and will check it.

it’s a 1994. So I am looking for a fuse in the engine bay that has blown?

discomania · Oct 7, 2019

Landy_Ben said:
Hi I do and will check it.

it’s a 1994. So I am looking for a fuse in the engine bay that has blown?

I think so, my 90 is 1990 so I only have the bulkhead fuse-box but by the 300tdi they had some other fuses and the fuseible links.

I'd check the stud is live first, if it is lie then assume fault lies within the Boomslang wiring, if the stud is dead then we are talking fusible link I would think.

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