angeloc

Well-Known Member
Freelander TD4 2003 96k miles

What a rubbish design. Mine stated playing up - only opening bonnet in last centimetre of the lever.

I bought a new cable and went at it. Without taking out the radiator your access is very limited and bodgy. I didn't take our the radiator!

Chiseled off the rivets that hold the plastic under the bonnet mechanism - the plastic breaks mote than the rivets releasing. There are 5 of them - 4 you get with chisel - 1 is on top through a small hole in front - punch it out.

All this after you have removed the round radiator thing and put it well put of harms way. It's worth taking the screws out on top for the grill and also take out the two Allan type plastic things that hold the rad onto the front top panel.

Getting the two front rivets off I went through a grill gap and used an long old big screwdriver.

You will have to be quite rough getting the Plastic cover out - it gets stuck between the rad and the mechanism.

Ok now all you can do is just about change the cable - you cannot ( well I couldn't) get the mechanism out - and I need to - the cable is fine it's the mechanism that needs cleaning and re oiling!

Ok so I put it all back and took the bonnet release lever off in in the passengers footwell - this was bent - I bentbit back into shape refitted it and guess what .... Yes it bent again as I opened the bonnet.

Drastic measure - cable is ok so I welded a plate to the mechanism and made it a lot stronger - now it works fine but a bit stiff so I do need to get the bonnet mechanism out!

Unless someone knows something I don't - anyone got the mechanism out without removing the radiator.

And before you say it yes I have searched and looked at Haynes and the Rave - the RAVE conveniently leaves out all the work needed to get to the mechanism by the way!

Cheers people.
 
I had a similar problem when i tried to open bonnet it would open with brute force on the lever,after thinking about it i decided to look on the bonnet side of things and found you can adjust the length of the bonnet catch using mole grips to push the spring up and adjust the catch with a spanner hope this helps.
 
How!? I tried but it kept jamming against the radiator.
My bonnet cable went yesterday, after doing a search on different tecniques and realising what long jobs were at hand, I have managed to fix mine.......however, it's not ideal if you intend to sell your hippo!
All I did was drill and hacksaw the rear metal area immediately behind the catch recess area towards the engine; about 3" wide, also down towards the area just before the left hand bolt hole ( no strenght is lost as the catch covering plate helps stablises it). This exposes the cable end that joins the catch, as the bolts are off the assembly can move freely, allowing the removal of the cable loop end more easily.
As I am still waiting for the new cable to arrive, I drilled a hole through left side of the plastic bottom plate, then threaded a doubled lenght of strong cord and out through the grill, fanshioned a handle from black tape and tested the workings......it worked. The make shift handle can be tucked away behind the grill.
Hopes this bodge job helps, just need to tidy the area up abit more now.
 

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