P38TD said:

I'm about to embark on changing the cam and lifters on my P38td, it has a very "tappety" top end.

I've bought a second hand engine from a 525tds with a quiet top end but noisy bottom end, possible big ends.

I've taken the cam and lifters out of the donor engine and the cam looks as good as new, it also has a new starter motor which is nice as mine is tired.

So my questions are,

Will the starter from the 525 fit the P38?

Does anyone have the timing tools required that they could measure and tell me the dimensions? Specifically the cam locating tool, the tensioner pin & the lever for the tensioner, I found the dimesions for the flywheel pin in the "how to" section(I have a lathe and mill so plan on making them)?


Any hints or tips would be welcome

Stu

Click to expand...

Datatek said:

I have a complete timing kit I bought on Ebay for not a lot. Wammers is your man for the details.

Click to expand...

P38TD said:

I have seen them on ebay, but its the postage to France that hurts!

I have the equipment to make my own so thought I could save a few quid, I also don't need the fip pullers and such (not yet any how!)

Do you have a set of very-nears that you could measure the cam locking plate with?

Click to expand...

Datatek said:

Not too well at the moment so can't get to the stuff for the time being. sorry.
Shame you are not nearer, you could have borrowed the kit.

Click to expand...

P38TD said:

I have seen them on ebay, but its the postage to France that hurts!

I have the equipment to make my own so thought I could save a few quid, I also don't need the fip pullers and such (not yet any how!)

Do you have a set of very-nears that you could measure the cam locking plate with?

Click to expand...

jamesmartin said:

cant you measure yours

Click to expand...

wammers said:

Just remove the cam cover off your spare engine and measure across the flats on the camshaft.

Click to expand...

P38TD said:

Thats what I've done this morning, so all the timing tools are made and seem to fit ok.

I've taken the cam and followers out of the P38 now and will be reassembling with the donor parts tomorrow.

One question though, it says in rave on engines with over 20,000kms to alter the cam timing by 4.61mm (on inlet side), I presume this retards the cam timing, is this a good idea?

BTW the 525tds starter fits a treat!

Click to expand...

wammers said:

The static with new chains allows for chain stretch over time, the cam then settles where it should be. Same as injection pump which is also set differently for stretched chains. If your engine has done more than 20,000 Km use the feelers. Hope you are fitting the tappets to the same lobe they came from. Allow half to three quarters of an hour before turning engine over to allow tappets to shrink. I would turn by hand before using starter to check for fouls.

Click to expand...

P38TD said:

Ok, thanks for that, will use the feelers, am I right in thinking that doing so actually retards the cam rather than advancing back to where it would have been before the chain stretched?

Click to expand...

wammers said:

When the cam is fitted with new chains it is actually set slightly advanced to allow for chain stretch. When you use the feelers it sets the cam in the correct position to allow for the stretched chain. I have just changed my chains and sprockets at 117,000 miles, the pump to cam chain was almost ready to fail at two positions. The lower chain was fine.

Click to expand...

P38TD said:

Ah I see, that makes sense. Are the chains prone to letting go?

Any how, I put it all back together this morning with the donor parts and it runs a treat, the top end is defo a lot quieter but it still has this "clack, clack, clack" noise, difficult to describe.

It sounds worse from underneath or standing by the drivers door and if I slacken off no.2 injector pipe it sounds quieter, i've swapped out no.2 injector to see if it was that but alas no.

It doesn't sound like big ends and the oil light goes out tout suite, piston or rings maybe??? seems to get worse as it warms up.

Any ideas anyone?

Click to expand...

wammers said:

Do you not have a stethoscope to pin it down? Maybe piston slap. But broken rings make a sort of ticking noise on a diesel.

Click to expand...

P38TD said:

Thanks for the reply.

Just the trusty screwdriver, may have to order a stethoscope. I'm leaning towards a piston problem, either slap, a broken ring or skirt, will drop the sump and have a look then whip the head off i suppose.

Would you get piston slap on just one cylinder do you think?

Click to expand...

wammers said:

Not usual for one piston to wear more than the rest. A broken ring will usually tinkle when pulling rather like a pink on a petrol engine. If you are doing that new chains maybe an idea.

Click to expand...

P38TD said:

Sorry its been awhile and I still haven't looked any further in to this problem, not had the time due to work.

Any how, it does sound a bit worse under load but more severe than a petrol pink, like I get on my series 1 sometimes.

I've been offered another P38 DT 96MY with a good engine, its an auto where as mines a manual, its got a few bits missing such as eas comp and the becm.

I haven't looked at it yet so no idea of condition but the guy said i can hear it running, they are an indy LR specialist who are shutting shop so presume he has a spare becm to put on to start it.

He's asking 1000€ delivered, sound about right or too much?

Click to expand...