...thus allegedly combining the rust preventative qualities of copper, (brass is an alloy of copper and zinc so has similar properties) with the strength of steel. Silicon bronze would be the best combination of corrosion resistance and strength but would be a lot more expensive. Stainless would be good too but again there is the question of work hardening and stainless is not totally rust resistant. I suppose Wurth are relying on the fact that you would not be tightening them up too often so the coating would last a fair time as opposed to being worn away by the action of the socket or spanner. Brass is softer, no denying it, but this only matters where great stress is on the component. I cannot remember offhand the torque applied to these nuts but I seem to remember it is less than 20 lbs/foot which is not much, so brass would be OK.
That's a good point! Might need a touch with a grinder. although it might just sit in the two gaskets. Re the 3/8 socket, do you not have a 1/2 to 3/8 converter? The torque could still be measured that way, unless someone is going to come on here and dispute that. From an engineering point of view I believe altering the size of the drive is only the same as altering the size of the fulcrum i.e. it has no bearing on the amount of torque it takes to do up the nut. I'll h ave to think about this!
... should have said "less than or equal to"!!! Was from memory after 2 years!
...which is what I said but in a more roundabout way, and with advice as to how to cure it if it is!
When you look at "compatible vehicles" it gives the dates as earlyish, thus covering the 10p engine, but if it is only the rocker cover gasket, you can get one of those cheaply enough and run with the one you've got in the meantime, it's not a big deal. Can't your engine rebuilder/garage get waht you need and at trade rates? Or would that be ridiculously expensive?
