The blowerr Heater motor under the dash has been making a odd audiable squeak when running slowly. The job took 30 minutes "once you have done it once". First time allow 60min.
This task is not complicated, BUT it is not easy either,If you are patient you will be fine the dificult part is carefully removing the covers and I have done my best to carefully explane how this is done.
Firstly you need to remove the bonnet opening catch. Its a star head screw
Next remove the panel below the glove box. Start by removing two black screws from the panel then remove a couple of plastic star shaped lugs that you need to manipulate the plastic strip over the top of,
"Don't yet try and remove it completely yet".
Then go to the foot well cover (covered in carpet) and if you put your fingers up under here you will feel a clip. YOu need to push up against the clip carfully, You can also get your other had on top of the clip and push down to assist.
View attachment 311006 The clip is a spring clip, see photo.
This is the hardest part once you have this off the rest is simple.
Pull the right side of the loose panel outwards and down a little and once it is clear you will need to manuipulate the left side up over the outside plastic foot well cover and then forward to slip it out sideways

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Now you can drop the glove box by opening then pushing down on the side stays. A little pressure down on the glove box and it will drop. You need to remove a white plastic plug from the bottom of the opening. NOw you can easily manipulate the blanck air vent down slightly then forawrd while rotating you will see it come away from its connection on the rigth side.
Close the glove box.

Under the foot well you will see the fan unit held by three screws. unclip the electrics first then unscrew and remove the fan unit. This bit is very simple.
Once I had the unit out I removed the internal guts by pushing in on three clips ariound the plastic armature. They are rubber and once pushed the top come off carefully.

You cant remove the top commpletely due to the electrics BUT you can get access to the bottom bearing where all the moisture goes. Yes it was a bit corroded and so I blew this out whiped off the corrosion then I used a CRC product that is sticky so it adheres to things like bearings. Squirt that into the bearing while manipulating it. Dont use "half a can" its not needed just enough. Place the fan upside down so the CRC goes into the bearing. I also drilled a hole in the fan so that i couild get CRC into the top bearing. After a few squarts I used hot glue to seal it again.



Reinstall everything ebing carful of the covers. It seams the covers cost more than the fan unit if you break them.
I ended up doing the process twice as the first time i reinstated things I did not repair the hole with hot glue and after that I started to worry about moisture ingress into the unit. Secound time l did this it took me about 15 minutes out adn back in so it is not complex once you know.
Result.
Fan runs silently again.

Nice one... now all we have to do is to guess what modell of Discovery it's about

sierrafery said:

Nice one... now all we have to do is to guess what modell of Discovery it's about

Click to expand...

Doesn't involve taking the rear axle out so my bet is D1

sierrafery said:

Nice one... now all we have to do is to guess what modell of Discovery it's about

Click to expand...

It's a D4 if it is the one in his other post about headrests.

Mine is chirping like a cricket in the jungle, it did come from Japan !

I've been putting off doing this job and while delaying it has just been getting worse, so this post is really helpful, I've got no excuses now

Hi Sierrafery, Just need to ask rather than attempt to belittle. The type is a 2014 Discovery 4.
The mid position roof rack was moved to the rear recently. When removing the roof rack there are stainless studs that thread into the vehicle frame at set positions and of course these were seized. I attempted to ease them out briefly before coming to my senses (18 years building boats has taught me the pain of dealing with stainless fixings when sheared off) To remove them I took the vehicle into Land Rover who removed all of them including the front ones in 2 minutes. It cost me $10. New studs installed with Copper grease to prevent surface corrosion occurring in the threads again. Old holes took two new plastic roof rail plugs. 50 cents each.

I think d3 and d4 are the same set up blower wise.

Did my D2 this afternoon, principle the same but did not need to remove the bonnet handle, and some fixings push fit plastic fir trees. Fan unit definitely the same.

I did remove the white plastic fan and take the motor out of the housing. I then decided to put a drop of 3in1 oil on both bearings as I don't think anything like grease would penetrate, There are two identical Bearings one at each end of the motor, lubricating the one under the fan is impossible without removing it or drilling a hole as Brendan did. Will be interesting to see how long this treatment lasts.

So far the chirping cricket sound has gone.