Right just used this link as the basis 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" Lifts - but over what eaxctly - International Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum and my Landie measures approx 40mm higher than standard which equates to roughly a 2" lift, so I think the issue might be the props, I possibly need wide angle ones.

Before I go and spend £300 plus on new props, how can I tell for sure a prop is binding?

I've had it 3 months and the fluids have been changed in everything and nothing untoward in any of the oils, it has brand new wheel bearings and brakes all round, and has only done a genuine 75k (I have all the MOT's from day one to verify this)

oh, i thought you mean it had no oil in the diff, not it was clear of contaminants. :D
 
Right just used this link as the basis 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" Lifts - but over what eaxctly - International Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum and my Landie measures approx 40mm higher than standard which equates to roughly a 2" lift, so I think the issue might be the props, I possibly need wide angle ones.

Before I go and spend £300 plus on new props, how can I tell for sure a prop is binding?

I've had it 3 months and the fluids have been changed in everything and nothing untoward in any of the oils, it has brand new wheel bearings and brakes all round, and has only done a genuine 75k (I have all the MOT's from day one to verify this)

If you read the fred you will find Trewey has told you. Remove front shaft and drive in diff lock ;)
If you are paying £150 for a propshaft you need to shop around more.
 
Here's a pic of the angle the front prop is sitting at
20140416_183506.jpg


That does look too much to me

And the rear prop
20140416_183338.jpg
 
I'm 99.9% sure this is the issue. As with a new tight prop it's even worse than the sloppy old prop (and possibly why the UJ at that end was worn out)

What is the best way to rectify this?

Should I get a wide angle rear prop and double cardan front prop? Or does the rear look ok?

Also maybe that explains why the phasing of the UJ'S on the old prop was opposite to this prop as someone tried bodging it to stop the vibration (I bought the truck with the tyres and suspension already on it)
 
Last edited:
Both pics look fine, if you look at the yoke flange you will see it has cast hollow bits to allow the prop yoke to travel even further without contact.
Are there any signs of rubbing yoke to yoke?
But the cheapest set of std springs of ebay fit them and see if it sorts it, will cost peanuts as no bugger wants the old ones.
I think yuo will find the 40mm lift is just inside the tolerance of what the car can handle on std suspension without causing any issues, otherwise why would anyone do a 40mm lift when its always been in whole inches?
 
I have a massively heavy front winch bumper, apparently with standard springs it was almost sitting on the bump stops according to the previous owner.

This is the diff end which as you can see the UJ is straight.

20140416_204054.jpg
 
Last edited:
maybe the angle but it looks like the cap is sliding about.

also, i think people usually use hd springs up the front to counter winch weight.

but i don't know much about lifts :D
 
No its solid.

But as I said I've had this vibration since I got it and I've been chasing it around, it did it with the old prop but is worse with the new one.
 
Little update...

Played with the phasing of the front prop, made no difference. Removed it all together drove it 20 miles or so in Diff Lock and the vibration has gone.

Checked diff oil fine and backlash seems ok.

So I've ordered a double cardan 200tdi front prop from Paddocks. Fingers crossed this cures it!
 

Similar threads