Cant wait to get this rear tub in primer it’s starting to grind! I would say to anyone restoring a landy that it’s the most time consuming piece of the jigsaw to get right and the most visible once done, get it wrong and it will annoy you every time you go for the door handle
 
Cant wait to get this rear tub in primer it’s starting to grind! I would say to anyone restoring a landy that it’s the most time consuming piece of the jigsaw to get right and the most visible once done, get it wrong and it will annoy you every time you go for the door handle
I’d agree, when I started the prep and paint on my panels it seemed to take forever. Definitely the longest part of the job…ok in the end but a beast of work. Some of the mechanical was easy by comparison. Your coming on though. 👍
 
Cant wait to get this rear tub in primer it’s starting to grind! I would say to anyone restoring a landy that it’s the most time consuming piece of the jigsaw to get right and the most visible once done, get it wrong and it will annoy you every time you go for the door handle
I’d agree, when I started the prep and paint on my panels it seemed to take forever. Definitely the longest part of the job…ok in the end but a beast of work. Some of the mechanical was easy by comparison. Your coming on though. 👍
 
Cant wait to get this rear tub in primer it’s starting to grind! I would say to anyone restoring a landy that it’s the most time consuming piece of the jigsaw to get right and the most visible once done, get it wrong and it will annoy you every time you go for the door handle
Thing is with LR is to me they are a work horse.
Spent ages on 1 build & jumped into the nice leather trim… & scratched them with a Jean button.. trim out & back to cloth.
The Hicap was a purpose built motor. All straight, gleaming paint, photos for insurance and next day into the woods for work. Every scratch/dent I put into the paint will be a memory.

once you have the paint done & it starts to be built all your worries will disappear.
Keep building & enjoy
Love the updates
 
Its done !!! And Im also done in ! 12 hrs in the man cave, 1lt of etch primer, 2 lts of high build primer, 3 sheets or 80 120 and 400 grit block sanding pads and two bottles of Proper Job IPA and the tub is finally ready for top coat.
 

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This is putting my efforts on Izzy's 110 tub to shame...but equally its inspiration.

Once the garden rework pace slackens...back at it.
 
All the steel work including the bulkhead and inner wings are back from the blasters, a few drain holes added to the roll bar hoop and they are ready to go to the galvanisers next Wednesday. Notice that I’ve attached some unistrut as a brace across the base of the bulkhead to reduce the chances of it warping. They should be back the Monday after, cant wait to see everything back with a new shiney coating just as they left the factory, have to admit they do look better than if they were painted silver.
 

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Have you put a drill/drain hole on the door pillars of the bulkhead?
They classed mine as a sealed tube & drilled a hole in each side

Stuff always look good when re galved
 
As the weather is so bloody awful today think I’ll hide in the garage, plan is to patch up the bulkhead to tunnel cover (sand blasted revealed a few holes) then straight out the tunnel panel, clean up the heater box and fan and get everything primed. Depending on time I may start on the steel panel that goes be hinged the dash get it cleaned and painted back then start on refurbishing the upper and lower dashboard.
 
Have you put a drill/drain hole on the door pillars of the bulkhead?
They classed mine as a sealed tube & drilled a hole in each side

Stuff always look good when re galved
I’ve had two bulkheads galvanized so far and had no issues, if they do decide to drill a hole I can always fill it in with lead solder before painting, I’ve used this method on galvanized front bumpers to fill in the end cap holes. Beauty with lead soldering is that it doesn’t rust and easy to sand down.
 
I’ve had two bulkheads galvanized so far and had no issues, if they do decide to drill a hole I can always fill it in with lead solder before painting, I’ve used this method on galvanized front bumpers to fill in the end cap holes. Beauty with lead soldering is that it doesn’t rust and easy to sand down.
Where/who are you using for galvanising ?

Are they still charging per weight?
(Not had much done for he past few years & good to keep up with the things)
 
Where/who are you using for galvanising ?

Are they still charging per weight?
(Not had much done for he past few years & good to keep up with the things)
Yes price is per kg, not sure how much that is at the moment. Previously Ive sent them to Roften in Merseyside but this time they are heading to Shropshire galv.
 
Steady progress this weekend have got the gearbox tunnel cover and the steel bit that joins it to the bulkhead ready for primer after some patch repairs. Handbrake and gear sick cleaned and painted, window hindges cleaned up and ready for some etch primer.
So for the rest of the week while I await the bits back from the galv (eta next Monday) I’m planning on getting the heater box and motor cleaned and painted, bulkhead vent flaps cleaned and primed and the seat box top covers cleaned and primed. After that there isnt that much to do. Think I’ll start on refinishing the dash, have bought a second hand lower dash from ebay as mine had complete dissolved hoping to fill in some of the holes and recover in some 4 way stretch material that my friend has left over from doing his series 3.
 

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Oh and I’ve found the ideal spray booth ! Forget building it in the garage! I’ve just been granted planning permission for an extension on the back of the house replacing my conservatory which we seldom used for a 8x6mt kitchen / family room, so just before I take down the conservatory I’m gonna use it as a spray booth ! Before anyone says anything … yes I will be removing all the plants, furniture and the cat ! 😂
 

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