Yeah, keep turning it over until it starts, lol. The mechanical pump for the tank primes the lines, so turning it over and letting the fuel pump turn over will prime them anyway. Or you can use a non-return bulb pump to prime the system.
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
Spray brake cleaner in the intake it will fire up and away you go
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
Well it may, unfortunately the air that will be in the injection lines and IP is compressible and will not leave the system in a hurry, but the shortcut way is to slacken off the flare nuts on the injectors, prime the IP via the lift pump manual priming lever, then crank the engine until diesel without air bubbles discharges at the injectors, lock off the flare nuts , all air should be out of the injection lines by then, if all's well the engine will start.
VE FIP is very tolerant of air in the system IME, and Gazbo's advice in post #6 is the belt and braces approach
. Also do as Marmaduke suggests and fill your fuel filter with derv before you start hand priming. , IMHO, it's about the best use for it - at least you will have some warmth from it! Download RAVE - far superior.
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
Ok if you have a top of the wozza battery and starter, but if either are a bit less than great, the cranking quickly becomes too slow to start the engine.
chris-the-gerbil
Well-Known Member
If you get a lot of air in, I've found that slackening off the return line on the back of the pump and letting it push air out there speeds it up a lot. Nip up that union and then do the injectors as you say. I've got 300's to start like that with totally knackered lift pumps.
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
My method is an "old school" method, I'm old, lots of stuff I work on is old, that method of bleeding air out, is how I was taught to do the job in the mid 60's, when self bleeding fuel injection systems were not all that common.
It may not be a progressive attitude but I have plenty of time to do any job I do.
Today many inj systems are self priming/bleeding, probably because most people if they run a system out of fuel, have no way other than a trip to a workshop on a tilt tray to get going again. Whilst I'm still driving semi primitive diesels, I will take the long way round to get my fuel system bled, because it always gets the engine started with the minimum of fuss and stress, simples.
All started up and it sounded terrible.throbing and banging found I managed to set one of the valve clearances big enough to get your finger in not sure how I managed that done plenty in my time and always double check...must be an age thing..
Quite likely to have broken a valve lash cap, clearance goes from 0.20mm to 3.00mm, happens all the time and makes the engine sound totally fubared, especially on the over run.
