A1yxll80

Member

• May 20, 2019

• #1

I’m in dire need of some help from you knowledgeable lot....

So I’ve upgraded from the the Lucas glass type fuses to led blade ones, however I’m struggling to get my head around getting power to the box? I for some reason can’t find a permanent power wire although I do have power at the starter motor into the bulkhead? Does a wire have to go into the terminal at the bottom in the picture? or just same as the glass type fuse?

 

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FlyingPete

Well-Known Member

• May 20, 2019

• #2

This fusebox won't do what you want. The idea is that a heavy battery cable goes to the stud at the bottom and the individual circuits are fused from that.

On a series, each fuse has individual wires going to it, and some go through the ignition key. Half the circuits have no fuse at all!

What you need is a basic 4-way fusebox with 8 separate terminals.

 

A1yxll80

Member

• May 20, 2019

• #3

FlyingPete said:

This fusebox won't do what you want. The idea is that a heavy battery cable goes to the stud at the bottom and the individual circuits are fused from that.

On a series, each fuse has individual wires going to it, and some go through the ignition key. Half the circuits have no fuse at all!

What you need is a basic 4-way fusebox with 8 separate terminals.

Click to expand...

So is it worth just putting that to one side and starting again? Is there any way that it can Be used?

 

FlyingPete

Well-Known Member

• May 20, 2019

• #4

A1yxll80 said:

So is it worth just putting that to one side and starting again? Is there any way that it can Be used?

Click to expand...

If you wanted to add circuits in the future it's a good place to start. Otherwise you are in to adding relays to make certain circuits switched indirectly by the ignition key. If you want to do a straight swap, then it won't be any use.

 

A1yxll80

Member

• May 20, 2019

• #5

Yeh straight swap but not glass fuses I’ll guess I’ll start trawling through websites now haha

 

R

rob1miles

Well-Known Member

• May 21, 2019

• #6

A simple up-grade is to use fused relays on the lights and horn. Locate them near the load (ie clsoe to the lights / horn) and wire a supply from the battery and swith the relay with the existing cicuit. This gives you a fused supply without haveing to run a lot of extra wires and it cuts the load on the existing switch and wires.
This type of thing:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Auto...=133006309789af29c7519f424b49ac2fb4823edfe4c5

 

mystery

Well-Known Member

• May 21, 2019

• #7

try https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-...0140122125356&meid=34ca083cd5ed4f6dad1fc4e86e doesn't have led indicators to tell you the fuse has blown
think it obvious when the item stops working

 

C

Colthebrummie

Well-Known Member

• May 21, 2019

• #8

mystery said:

try https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-Universal-Car-6-Way-Circuit-Standard-Blade-Fuse-Box-Holder-Electrical-UK/223440021768?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=1&asc=20140122125356&meid=34ca083cd5ed4f6dad1fc4e86e doesn't have led indicators to tell you the fuse has blown
think it obvious when the item stops working

Click to expand...

The LED isn't to tell you the fuse has blown, it is to tell which fuse has blown, useful at night.

Col

 

mystery

Well-Known Member

• May 21, 2019

• #9

you could use a torch