neilly
Well-Known Member
Stainless should not be used for bolting a critical part like a tow bar, The tensile strength is less.
Cheers
Stainless should not be used for bolting a critical part like a tow bar, The tensile strength is less.
Cheers
alexc2701
Active Member
You misread I said use normal HTS high tensile steel for the tow bolts, the stainless I meant was for the tub bolts. As it looks like the powder falls under them might be runoff
My tub fitted better lying behind the bolt tabs than in front of them. Not sure if that's peculiar to a Richards Chassis.
Tow bolts aren't stainless for that reason.
They don't look it, but I'm sure the tub bolts were stainless. I'm going to check on the YRM website!
neilly
Well-Known Member
Fitting like they are shown in your picture is the same as mine. Which I believe is the way they should be.
I did not misread, just reiterating, ,maybe I should have written it better.
Cheers
alexc2701
Active Member
Might be my chasis has welded nuts behind my tabs so wouldn't work too well other way around
They aren't stainless they're stamped ty 8.8 which is normal HTS 800nm. Looks powdery where tab touches the tub too :/
Makes me wonder if id've been better just getting a new chasis painting and waxoyl it
alexc2701
Active Member
Ah my bad I saw the other stamp! All look same zoomed in
Wonder what's making it powder then. Maybe where galv is pressing through the paint?
Hope not!Ah my bad I saw the other stamp! All look same zoomed in
Wonder what's making it powder then. Maybe where galv is pressing through the paint?
I'll investigate if, or when, I get the engine running again. There's always something
alexc2701
Active Member
Think it's dependant mine the tabs sit further back and got nuts welded behind the tab. I used a newer tub though maybe diffirent
Ah I see sorry
Always! Least you're able to faffHope not!
I'll investigate if, or when, I get the engine running again. There's always something
I'm 3 weeks in and going stir crazy! Sat about all time. Only halfway and I can't do anything! Bit off topic though 
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
gal;v will do that under paint or between surfaces if its been damp it will be ok once it in the weather as the powder wont build up
Sounds good JM. I think a dose of dinitrol down there won't come amiss and will keep further damp out.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you can but it wont stop it galv stats eroding from the day its applied, it will take 30 or more years to disappear though, bare metal near galv is protected from rotting though it wil get surface rust
Only 30 years! Damn, I might still be alive then. I can see another re-chassis project in the future.
neilly
Well-Known Member
Only 30 years! Damn, I might still be alive then. I can see another re-chassis project in the future.
Look on the bright side, the engine should still be OK. ................
Cheers
Hopefully, cos with any luck a lot of those 30 years it'll just be getting retirement mileage.Look on the bright side, the engine should still be OK. ................
Cheers
raywin
Well-Known Member
Not at all, I am happy to see people sharing ideas and thoughts, and it kind of makes me hope the thread was a catalyst for that.Sorry @raywin we've hijacked your thread here
I have worked in engineering for 48 years now ( retire next year) but I am by no means a Land Rover expert, its good to have the possibility to get help from people who have done work on them and are willing to share, its also nice if you can adapt an idea to assist someone who needs a bit of help.
I intended to go a bit deeper with this thread but it was a bit of a hotch potch from the start and I came to a point where i just had to get stuck in and wrap it up, so it is not well documented, but as you said its nice to know I'm sitting on something a bit more solid, I knew it was not good before but it looked like it was made from cream crackers when I started digging.
Regarding Galvanic corrosion it's a well documented phenomena, if you google galvanic index there is a table which shows the reaction of metals further apart they are on the table the more they will corrode when in contact, mild steel and stainless steel will always react with Aluminum, but moisture will accelerate the problem if you can coat it with something like waxoyl it will help a bit, but only slowing it down.
The parts from YRM metals which you told me about have the seat belt anchors on them and they use high tensile stainless studs I slapped waxoyl on between the new galvanized parts and the old Ally bits ( what was left of them) just to try and help. I will try to get some pictures of the powdery surface on the chassis and other bits, it makes me want to slap something on there to cut off the oxygen, and cover up the fact that the chassis is galvanized.
Interestingly when I went to Richards to have the chassis done, he showed me one they had in the yard which he said was 20 years old and it was pretty good with no significant corrosion at all, hope mine is that good then any problems will be for the next owner.
Have my fingers crossed for your engine re start hope it comes this weekend, I have a plan to re build my TD5 next year, cam shaft is damaged and I thought I may do a big job on it, especially seeing what yours looks like now, i think you may have inspired quite a few people.
I think you did a good job of documenting the work, raywin. And, more importantly, did a cracking job of the repairs.
I think, like you, it's the speed at which some form of galvanic corrosion has appeared that has surprised me. I suppose a chassis sat in a yard is not going to get the winter road grime and salt combo thrown at it, which will make a massive difference.
I'm reasonably handy with the tools having served my time in a large engineering company and worked there for a few years before it started losing contracts. As waves of redundancies were announced I decided to leave before I was pushed. Sadly, I took a different career tack. That was a long time ago, but if a few people have been following my engine rebuild thread It would be nice to think they are saying to themselves 'if he can do it I can do it'. Not sure if it's inspired people, but if it's encouraged them to give it a go that would be nice.
Not too much to do now and the forecast is good for the weekend (maybe a little thunder storm around 5pm tomorrow) All going well this weekend should see a start up attempt
I'll be trying to play it cool though and not rush things
raywin
Well-Known Member
Well feeling embaresed I thought I had better install the subwoofer so I did it at the weekend it sounds great, well land rover great anyway.
Sudden rainfall has given me my next project the dam thing was like a mango swamp I think the sun roof is leaking. I hate that damed thing in winter it is covered in ice which melts and drips on you, rest of the time it leaks in the rain.
Anyone taken one out and re sealed it?
Sudden rainfall has given me my next project the dam thing was like a mango swamp I think the sun roof is leaking. I hate that damed thing in winter it is covered in ice which melts and drips on you, rest of the time it leaks in the rain.
Anyone taken one out and re sealed it?
When I took mine out for the rebuild I just cleaned the old seal and put it back in. It's been fine and doesn't leak. (touch wood)
Algae grows under the glass and may well create a route for water to sneak through. Worth taking it all out and giving it a clean, I reckon.
