raywin

raywin

Well-Known Member
My cab is showing its age in some places so its high time to do something



Drivers side floor panel looks like the moths have been at it, the self tappers that hold it down were just brown lumps, ended up grinding slots in them and chopping them out.


Seat box sides are in a bad way but I have some new ones in the garage, so I thought I might get stuck in


Galvanic corrosion has played havoc with the interior, Ive ordered a new floor plate drivers side and the seat box center cover from YRM metals.


OOps not sure I meant to go this far

While Im in here Im going to change the transfer box for the Discovery one I rebuilt last year, Its a pig to get out



Old transfer box seems not too bad but there is lots of backlash in the internal diff, and the oil was like liquid gold, this is hard work on your own.
I managed to get the old box into the garage and start swapping a few bits over then I noticed the new box is short of a switch i think its the high low indicator, dam it would have been easy to drill and tap the box when I had it in bits, I will need to look at that and see what to do.




Also noticed that the speedo drive is different the green one is from the Defender the black one was on the discover box, need to get the drive spindle out because the little square drive is different sizes on the two units.



The drive spindle housing is proving to be a pig to get out, I am wondering about getting a new drive gear and putting the new gear into the housing from the Discovery box



Does anyone know if this is OK to do also on my TD5 with 5 speed R380 box which speedo driven gear is correct seems there are different ones with different numbers of teeth?
 
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Oh well spent some time searching the internet and seems I need a blue one
The Speedo drive in the old box is unbelievable, so hard to shift it I am going to order a new one, I tried al kinds of things even heated up the alloy and cooled the bush with a freeze spray, but no use.
IMG_0356.JPG


Another question
Why do they put this on the transfer box? is it a damper? or did they just feel the Defender wasn't heavy enough?

IMG_0357.JPG
 
raywin said:
Oh well spent some time searching the internet and seems I need a blue one
The Speedo drive in the old box is unbelievable, so hard to shift it I am going to order a new one, I tried al kinds of things even heated up the alloy and cooled the bush with a freeze spray, but no use.
View attachment 123244

Another question
Why do they put this on the transfer box? is it a damper? or did they just feel the Defender wasn't heavy enough?

View attachment 123245
Click to expand...
it does reduce vibration
 
jamesmartin said:
it does reduce vibration
Click to expand...
Thanks James, appreciate you experience,
I wondered if it was for vibration it has two rubber pads laminated between the weights and the mounting plate.
I just ordered a driven gear for the speedo part FRC3310, but I wondered if my Disco box might have a different pitch on the driver gear inside, seems they use some different driven gears do you know if they all use the same driver ?
  • Colour: blue/20 teeth - Part number: FRC3310 - Tyres: 7.50/16 or 235/85/16
  • Colour: green/21 teeth - Part number: FRC3311
  • Colour: yellow/22 teeth - Part number: FRC3312 - Tyres: 205/16 tyres
  • Colour: red/24 teeth - Part number: FRC3313

 
raywin said:
Thanks James, appreciate you experience,
I wondered if it was for vibration it has two rubber pads laminated between the weights and the mounting plate.
I just ordered a driven gear for the speedo part FRC3310, but I wondered if my Disco box might have a different pitch on the driver gear inside, seems they use some different driven gears do you know if they all use the same driver ?
  • Colour: blue/20 teeth - Part number: FRC3310 - Tyres: 7.50/16 or 235/85/16
  • Colour: green/21 teeth - Part number: FRC3311
  • Colour: yellow/22 teeth - Part number: FRC3312 - Tyres: 205/16 tyres
  • Colour: red/24 teeth - Part number: FRC3313
Click to expand...
only the driven gear changes, blue is for the tall tyres
 
jamesmartin said:
only the driven gear changes, blue is for the tall tyres
Click to expand...
Once again thanks, I was a bit worried I might be pulling the end off my re built box to change the driver, ok I can relax now and try to get the box in place while I wait for the delivery of new gear and spindle, and the prop shaft bolts. One good thing the sealing diameter on my old drive flanges looks better than the ones from the disco box so I will re use them with new seals, and the gearbox output shaft looks pretty good.
 
So moving on I cleaned up the gearbox a bit and then set up to lift in the box
IMG_0358.JPG


If you have the chance its much easier to use a small pull lift or other device on the engine crane, you can move the box up and down millimeters at a time and guide it with the other hand.
All the same it was a pig to get the output shaft into the transfer box but stuck at it and now its in, I left the brake and the vibration damper off it to make it easier to move it about. now start connecting up the bits and pieces.
IMG_0360.JPG
 
Al2O3 said:
Wow! That job developed a bit from tidying the cab :eek:
Click to expand...
Yes I had thought I must do this but I genuinely did not intend to go so far this week, the corrosion is pretty bad I must get on top of it.
Must be getting old my bones ache a bit
 
raywin said:
Yes I had thought I must do this but I genuinely did not intend to go so far this week, the corrosion is pretty bad I must get on top of it.
Must be getting old my bones ache a bit
Click to expand...
It turned out to be decent weather for working outdoors, especially Saturday here.. I have to work outdoors anyway, don't know about you.
I'm lucky in that my house faces due South, so if there is any sun out it can be ok and workable, even on a coldish day.
Has the corrosion from the seat box sides worked through to the front of the tub? Like in my avatar :(
 
Al2O3 said:
It turned out to be decent weather for working outdoors, especially Saturday here.. I have to work outdoors anyway, don't know about you.
I'm lucky in that my house faces due South, so if there is any sun out it can be ok and workable, even on a coldish day.
Has the corrosion from the seat box sides worked through to the front of the tub? Like in my avatar :(
Click to expand...
To be honest I just cut through the corners of the seat box sides and lifted it out, leaving the side bits in place, now the transfer box is fitted i want to drill out the two bolts each side (they were stuck) and investigate the problem, the alloy around the seat belt mountings has just about gone I need to patch them up but at least the belts are mounted to the frame below so it's not so drastic, I was thinking of making patches with the good bits of the drivers floor or even trying to get some plastic. I will try and get some pictures up when I get stuck into them.
 
raywin said:
To be honest I just cut through the corners of the seat box sides and lifted it out, leaving the side bits in place, now the transfer box is fitted i want to drill out the two bolts each side (they were stuck) and investigate the problem, the alloy around the seat belt mountings has just about gone I need to patch them up but at least the belts are mounted to the frame below so it's not so drastic, I was thinking of making patches with the good bits of the drivers floor or even trying to get some plastic. I will try and get some pictures up when I get stuck into them.
Click to expand...
I know you've already ordered stuff from YRM, but have you seen the front tub galvanised repair panels?
 
Al2O3 said:
I know you've already ordered stuff from YRM, but have you seen the front tub galvanised repair panels?
Click to expand...
No I did not see them, better take a look,
I was tempted to change the sill rails for their galvanised ones but I think I need to do a full check now and decide if I will do it all or make this a two part project.
Believe it or not the original intention was to clean up a bit and fit a sub woofer on the back of the cubby box. When I took the box out the plate under it was rough and it went from there.

EDIT
Just been there that look like it may be what I need, hard to see from the picture on web site, but in both corners where my seat belts fit the alloy is just about disappeared, I may have to bite the bullet here. Looking at my last picture in post 7 you can see the red crane handle sitting on the bad bit but there is too much junk piled on it to see clearly
 
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This is the galvanised section LINKY (pricey) A good addition to compliment your galv chassis though. You've done a lot of work toward fitting it already.
This is the top section, that runs along behind the seats LINKY
 
Cheers that looks like the bits I need, I was wondering what to do in there as it makes everything look so scruffy, best get on to them and order, now I am in so deep it makes no sense to stop.
Seems to be the same story with Defender jobs, you start to do a bit of a tidy and end up with a restoration project.
 
raywin said:
No I did not see them, better take a look,
I was tempted to change the sill rails for their galvanised ones but I think I need to do a full check now and decide if I will do it all or make this a two part project.
Believe it or not the original intention was to clean up a bit and fit a sub woofer on the back of the cubby box. When I took the box out the plate under it was rough and it went from there.

EDIT
Just been there that look like it may be what I need, hard to see from the picture on web site, but in both corners where my seat belts fit the alloy is just about disappeared, I may have to bite the bullet here. Looking at my last picture in post 7 you can see the red crane handle sitting on the bad bit but there is too much junk piled on it to see clearly
Click to expand...
Didn't see your edit until after my last post. I've been looking for some pictures since then.
You clamp the galv bits on and drill holes through the tub. I think you get stainless bolts with the repair panel.
IMG_5463_zpsn3nbphe5.jpg

then you bolt the top aluminium panel through in to the galv panel via existing holes in the galv panel.
IMG_5465_zpsa4hzuzug.jpg
 
raywin said:
Cheers that looks like the bits I need, I was wondering what to do in there as it makes everything look so scruffy, best get on to them and order, now I am in so deep it makes no sense to stop.
Seems to be the same story with Defender jobs, you start to do a bit of a tidy and end up with a restoration project.
Click to expand...
They're like painting the Forth Road bridge :rolleyes:
 
post: 3987830, member: 112131"]They're like painting the Forth Road bridge :rolleyes:[/QUOTE]
You were bang on with the bits I need went out today to try and asses the damage and here is what it look like, like the winner of a corrosion contest :

IMG_0362.JPG


IMG_0364.JPG
 
Yeah, mine was like that. It's an important area for the tub to bolt to the chassis.
I would get the door strike panels too. Dead cheap, easy to fit and will finish the whole job off very nicely. LINKY to page on new YRM site
There's pictures of me replacing mine HERE scroll down towards the bottom of this page.
 
My goodness me that looks crumbly! I'm sure with the help of YRM you can get things a whole lot better.

Mine's not quite as far gone fortunately, but one thing I have done is reinforced my B pillars with 3mm alloy sheet, with holes drilled in to take the bolts for the door striker and that bracket in A1203's picture. Plus a few more besides. Makes things a lot more rigid, and it's more difficult to force the doors open. The X Trouser door strikers from X Eng are good too, as they have less bits sticking out so you're less likely to slam your seatbelt in the door as well as less likely to catch your clothing.

If the speedo drive mechanism really won't come out, just swap that whole 'nose cone' over.

One thing I learned doing mine is that it helps to make sure everything is working before putting your floor pan and transmission tunnel back down. I was in a bit of a hurry to get everything back together, so put the transmission tunnel back in, and reinstalled all the matting, only to have to take it all out again to readjust the linkages for difflock and high-low, get the, difflock warning light working again, get the speedo mechanism working, and a few other bits of troubleshooting.

Stick a new handbrake cable on while you're at it. I was amazed how much tighter it felt with a new one.
 
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