Ok so I'm thinking of buying a freelander (51/52/53 plate) but I'm a little confused (and worried) about some of the reviews I'm seeing.

The HGF problem is the main sticking point as I think most of the other common faults I'll be able to pick up when I go for an inspection & test drive.

So could someone confirm/ correct the following please.

- There can be little or no warning of an imminent HGF.

- All petrol freelanders have K Series engines, even the V6 versions (KV6 I'm guessing).

- whilst pre 2000 petrol engines were more prone to the HGF problem even later petrol engines are susceptible.

- Being paranoid about coolant leaks (like making sure there aren't any) won't avoid the problem but fitting a remote pressure relief thermostat; a revised oil rail design; & a MLS gasket makes it much less unlikely to happen.

How expensive are these mods? I dont means the parts I mean the labour from say a decent local (non LR) garage.

I'm not sure whether to buy a post 2001 1.8 petrol (because maybe the mods then aren't required?) a pre-2001 and spend the cash saved on the mods? or stump up some extra cash for a diesel and if I did go diesel is TD4 the way to go? Indeed is there another diesel option?

get a dezul.Yes there are two dezuls, the earlier one being the better

A lot of people will suggest buying a diesel, though if you do find a good petrol and have the mods carried out, there won't be much between them then. Each can have their problems.

Petrols have their gaskets blow sometimes, on average about £500 in a good reputable back street garage.
Diesels can have their turbos go, can be a lot more expensive than the head gasket on petrols.

It's hard to say how much a garage will charge, i've seen some quotes well over £1000 when some are as low as £400, but personally if i couldn't do the work myself i'd pay around £500 for all the work. The oil rail is an easy job once the head is removed, so can be done at the same time. And fitting the PRT isn't too difficult, it's just swapping some pipes and refilling/bleeding the coolant.

Post 2001 engines are as prone to HGF as the pre 2001 engines, it can happen to any K series to be honest. Sometimes it's just pot luck. I'd go with the pre 2001 and spend the saved cash on the mods, then you know they've been done (hopefully to a good standard so you'll have no future problems).

For fecks sake get agrip make yer own decision and be happy with it do ya really need someone to talk ya into buying what could turn out anyway to be a pile o ****e.
Personally I wouldn't have either but does that make me right or even care ???


NO

Not been in the Freelander world for long myself but:

- There can be little or no warning of an imminent HGF.

Make regular checks with the coolant and oil and you should be able to detect it pretty quick.

- All petrol freelanders have K Series engines, even the V6 versions (KV6 I'm guessing).

Yes.

- whilst pre 2000 petrol engines were more prone to the HGF problem even later petrol engines are susceptible.

True, i got an '02 petrol and this has had one HGF (so far).

- Being paranoid about coolant leaks (like making sure there aren't any) won't avoid the problem but fitting a remote pressure relief thermostat; a revised oil rail design; & a MLS gasket makes it much less unlikely to happen.

Yes, there is a sticky on this forum about how best to avoid HGF.

Personally from what i read, and gathering info from friends/mechanics about the Freelander, they both got their faults so it doesn't matter which one really engine wise. It's your choice at the end of the day, if it doesn't feel comfortable or there is a strange noise then question it before you commit to parting with your cash.

One thing i forgot to add. When you check the oil before buying, if it looks very fresh or looks like it has just been changed ask the seller if it's private why he changed it before selling. A lot of HGF ones have a fresh oil change and if gone into the coolant also, then that will look fresh too. Check the filler caps for gunk.

Liner slippage is another K-series problem which effectively means looking around for another engine which you'll then do a preventative head gasket change on with the latest updated gasket set.
As for diesels, both are good with the earlier L-series being generally bulletproof if a little noisier & slower than the later Td4 as long as the cambelt & oil changes have been regularly done.
The Td4 is a little more powerful, economical & more refined & can be tuned for more power quite cheaply & the engine itself is also bulletproof if regularly serviced but some of the ancillaries are a little weak. The big must do is to regularly change the crankcase breather or fit the updated part from BMW otherwise it becomes blocked, overpressurises the crankcase & blows the turbo - all very easily preventable. Sensors can & do fail as does the low pressure fuel lift pump. Both diesels are good for 200,000 miles with regular servicing.

both petrol models are not only prone to HGF, but prone to sequential HGF. Fitting an up-rated gasket and rail will only reduce the chances of follow-up HGF. Some people have been lucky, others have not. It appears to be a lottery - if you fancy chancing your money, then why not, it is, after-all, your money. Personally , having had one, I would never go near another, but the diesels, whilst having serious problems, seem to be the best of the bunch.

Well said that man. The diesels can still be problematic but at least they're fixable in comparison. I wouldn't buy a petrol even with someone else's money.

Thanks for the help guys.

looks like I'm going to hunt down a TD4 then

I'll let you know how I get on